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My Track Day Turbo Puma Finished Rate Topic: -----

#101 User is offline   Turby 

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Posted 31 March 2010 - 10:06 PM

Selector forks are fine, its just a case of no teeth left on 2nd gear - probably a result of 200+ standing starts, 65000 miles and lots of competition use.

I'm not sure how these boxes copes with lots of rpms in a NA engine... 200 NA BHP = usually implies of rpm...
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#102 User is offline   eldoodarino 

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Posted 01 April 2010 - 07:12 AM

Sounds like it's held out pretty well..tbh :huh:
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#103 User is offline   Alan m 

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Posted 01 April 2010 - 05:35 PM

View Postwarrenpenalver, on 30 March 2010 - 09:13 PM, said:

You seen the price of them??

Ive been looking at prices for upgrading my box now 3rd has destroyed it self and its looking at £8k plus if i went down the dog engagement motorsport box route!! I think a recon standard box and turning down the boost is a better idea for the time being!!


Have you considered fitting either the Focus MTX75 or ST170 Getrag box. Quaife and others will supply various gearkits for these boxes and they should be plenty strong enougth.

I did consider this route myself if my dogbox ever died. Not sure space wise but nothing a would guess an angle grinder and mig welder couldn't sort .

#104 User is offline   bouncy 

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Posted 02 April 2010 - 06:12 PM

Just finished removing the Emerald ECU and re-wired the car for the DTA60 ECU, fingers crossed ive got the wiring in right!!!

Nightmare wiring the pins and putting into the ECU plug as my blistered fingers prove. Hopefully should have it back up and running on Tuesday and should get in some Dyno runs.

If anyone wants a few month old Emerald K3 ECU, with triple map switch, should be available at the end of the next week ( as ive left it down at the mappers)...........Doohhhh!!!

#105 User is offline   Fledge 

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Posted 06 April 2010 - 08:06 PM

View Postbouncy, on 31 March 2010 - 07:23 PM, said:

Presumably thats 200bhp at the flywheel, which should be round about 175bhp at the wheels. If so a standard box will be fine Matey!!! or a FRP box would be nice!!


Thanks for that
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#106 User is offline   bouncy 

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Posted 06 April 2010 - 09:21 PM

Ive set the tran-x diff up today, ordered a new set of bearings and gaskets. ill do some pics of the lsd install when I fit it, hopefully next couple of weeks.

#107 User is offline   volcomstone411 

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Posted 19 April 2010 - 04:41 PM

be interested to see how you get on with tran-x
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#108 User is offline   bouncy 

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Posted 19 April 2010 - 09:15 PM

View Postvolcomstone411, on 19 April 2010 - 04:41 PM, said:

be interested to see how you get on with tran-x



Me too!! :D

New Box arrived today, Im a little bit busy at the mo, so hopefully fit the lsd this weekend into the box

#109 User is offline   bouncy 

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Posted 20 April 2010 - 08:14 PM

I managed to strip the FRP box down this afternoon. What a easy peesy job!!! :woot2:

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Oh and they use SKF bearings aswell. If anyone didnt know that, :cool:

This post has been edited by bouncy: 20 April 2010 - 08:18 PM


#110 User is offline   happy-kat 

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Posted 20 April 2010 - 08:52 PM

What oil are you going to use in yours please?

I have some Castrol SMX-S for my refresh when I next need to empty the box out. Spec is not totally ideal at 75w85 rather than the 75w90 Ford use. the Ford oil I wanted is currently not available which kinda cheesed me slighty.
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#111 User is offline   bouncy 

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Posted 20 April 2010 - 09:02 PM

View Posthappy-kat, on 20 April 2010 - 08:52 PM, said:

What oil are you going to use in yours please?

I have some Castrol SMX-S for my refresh when I next need to empty the box out. Spec is not totally ideal at 75w85 rather than the 75w90 Ford use. the Ford oil I wanted is currently not available which kinda cheesed me slighty.


Im fitting a Tran x diff in it and they recommend Millers but just seen the price of the oil so may have to look elsewhere! :woot:

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This post has been edited by bouncy: 20 April 2010 - 09:13 PM


#112 User is offline   happy-kat 

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Posted 20 April 2010 - 09:08 PM

The Miller oils tend to say either for use in LSD boxes but with no synchromesh or for use with synchromesh gearboxes but with no LSD :derr:
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#113 User is offline   bouncy 

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Posted 20 April 2010 - 09:21 PM

This is what they list the oil for the ib5 with their lsd.

10668 MILLERS CRX LS 80W-90 £44.95
10670 MILLERS CRX TRANS/ LS 80W-140 1204 'BM' £74.25 thats a third of the cost of the FRP box!!! :blink:

This post has been edited by bouncy: 20 April 2010 - 09:22 PM


#114 User is offline   k1sport 

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Posted 21 April 2010 - 06:04 AM

I would be interested in the emerald for my rally puma, how much were you thinking?

#115 User is offline   bouncy 

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Posted 21 April 2010 - 12:28 PM

View Postk1sport, on 21 April 2010 - 06:04 AM, said:

I would be interested in the emerald for my rally puma, how much were you thinking?


Sold it already, sorry!!

#116 User is offline   FlashBastd 

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Posted 21 April 2010 - 12:49 PM

Hi, do you happen to know what SKF bearings you needed? I am assuming fitting the FRP LSD to a new FRP box will be pretty much the same as fitting your Tran X diff?

Did you need any special tools, or is this something a typical workshop should be able to undertake?

Have you had to reshim the gearbox?

Did you use new bolts to fit the crownwheel to your new diff?

Sorry for all the questions, excited about getting mine done and I want to make it as straightforward as possible for the garage.
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#117 User is offline   bouncy 

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Posted 21 April 2010 - 02:11 PM

View PostFlashBastd, on 21 April 2010 - 12:49 PM, said:

Hi, do you happen to know what SKF bearings you needed? I am assuming fitting the FRP LSD to a new FRP box will be pretty much the same as fitting your Tran X diff?

Did you need any special tools, or is this something a typical workshop should be able to undertake?

Have you had to reshim the gearbox?

Did you use new bolts to fit the crownwheel to your new diff?

Sorry for all the questions, excited about getting mine done and I want to make it as straightforward as possible for the garage.


The bearing numbers are LM29711/Q with LM29749Q and BT1B329149/Q with BT1-0017A/Q these are the inner bearing and outer cage numbers, just give your brg supplier these numbers and they can get them, SKF of course!!!!

You will def need the 5th gear puller, new gaskets, sealer, crown wheel bolts,driveshaft seals. I havnt tried to remove the diff bearing inner brgs as you usually break the brg and speedo drive anyway, so ordered the speedo drive aswell. If its an FRP box you dont need the rear endplate gasket.
I will do the diff end float when the bearings come, but no shim in mine when I stripped it down just the 2 cone washers!!!!

Hope this helps! :cool:

Heres a pic of the 5th gear puller

Posted Image

This post has been edited by bouncy: 21 April 2010 - 02:46 PM


#118 User is offline   Frp 167 

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Posted 21 April 2010 - 09:22 PM

Will ordinary gear pullers not do or do you need that special one from ford.

#119 User is offline   bouncy 

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Posted 21 April 2010 - 09:35 PM

View PostFrp 167, on 21 April 2010 - 09:22 PM, said:

Will ordinary gear pullers not do or do you need that special one from ford.


You cannot get the puller jaws under the 5th gear to pull on it as it sits close to the casing, well you might but you risk damaging the casing. There aint really nothing to grab onto the gear either. The 5th gear is bloody tight, well mine was so best to use the Ford Tool. I just rang my Ford Dealer and asked if they could fit a lsd into my IB5 box or could they lend me the tool.............they lent me the tool!!!!! :cool:

Heres a pic of the 5th gear, you can just see it (top left) and youll see what I mean

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I thought id try the shafts into the lsd before i fitted it and they bloody dont go in all the way!!! :rant: Looks like the end plates arnt same width all the way down :rant:

A few phone calls tomorrow then!

This post has been edited by bouncy: 21 April 2010 - 09:41 PM


#120 User is offline   Dave2302 

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Posted 22 April 2010 - 08:09 PM

Hi Lee,

Just picked up on this, lovely lookin car, its a credit to ya.

Whatever you do throw those std Ford diff brg cones in the bin and use solid shims. They are no good for a high torque box lol, they allow the diff to float.

Cheers Dave
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