Frp Stainless Steel Pistons very high quality 316 Grade
#41
Posted 01 April 2008 - 09:29 PM
discs will be next tho...
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#42
Posted 02 April 2008 - 01:14 AM
Noooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo!!
#43
Posted 06 July 2008 - 10:16 AM
I'm down to my last set of Custom made pistons again which are soon to be gone!...
Anyone who thinks they may want or need some new pistons over the summer period..(Jul/Aug) needs to PM me ASAP...
as i need to order them now!... (it takes my contact usually around 4-6 weeks to come up with them...as they are very busy doing much bigger projects...)
If anyone wants a set of genuine Alcon ones, I have a spare set going...in fact i may even knock off £100 just to get rid of them as i don't use them anymore...
whether i fit them or not is up to you, but there is no obligation either way...choice is yours...
Regards
Chris
453... (looking rather rosy today )
can peeps just pm me please if any questions... will help to keep the thread a little clearer for others... cheers
This post has been edited by eldoodarino: 06 July 2008 - 10:19 AM
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#44
Posted 23 September 2008 - 03:06 PM
although i am little confused about this Duralac idea that a few of you are running with, what dis-similar metals ae you puting it on and what are you hoping to achieve?
Rich
#45
Posted 23 September 2008 - 03:35 PM
Some use copper slik, others like myself use Duralac which is used in the boating industry to stop corrosion when adjacent disimilar metals are used.
plus the corrosion causes chunks of the caliper to disappear eventually, so long term is this issue is not addressed it means a new caliper as the adjacent pistons to the pad rail ends do not seat correctly in the caliper any more.
#46
Posted 23 September 2008 - 07:40 PM
although i am little confused about this Duralac idea that a few of you are running with, what dis-similar metals ae you puting it on and what are you hoping to achieve?
Rich
Thanks for your input Rich... you clearly know a bit about stainless... it's not been as easy convincing others that they are a little bit more 'up market' from the standard ground finish items which start to pit after a couple of years....
i think there are only a couple of people using the duralac idea...(I generally just use a smear of copper grease)... the no.1 problem with the areas that are getting corroded is really down to trapped moisture, unfortunatly the area behind the pad retaining fittings has a dip in the machining (god knows why ) which collects water and dirt.... now this isn't a problem at all if they are removed, treated and cleaned every year, but leave it for 2 or 3 and the calipers start to suffer serious corrosion issues..... also there are a couple of little holes around the back of the caliper which also trap moisture (because Alcon machined all the way through the caliper.. ) which lead to the same problem of seized bolts and problems too....
Regards
Chris
This post has been edited by eldoodarino: 23 September 2008 - 07:43 PM
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#47
Posted 24 September 2008 - 07:27 AM
i think there are only a couple of people using the duralac idea...(I generally just use a smear of copper grease)... the no.1 problem with the areas that are getting corroded is really down to trapped moisture, unfortunatly the area behind the pad retaining fittings has a dip in the machining (god knows why ) which collects water and dirt.... now this isn't a problem at all if they are removed, treated and cleaned every year, but leave it for 2 or 3 and the calipers start to suffer serious corrosion issues..... also there are a couple of little holes around the back of the caliper which also trap moisture (because Alcon machined all the way through the caliper.. ) which lead to the same problem of seized bolts and problems too....
Regards
Chris
so is this steel on steel (of various grades?) if so the sacrificial effect between dissimilar steels is very minimal, my primary concern, corrosion wise would be road salt and water, to which Duralac will give very minimal protection as it will break down in contact with water, also it does not have good thermal properties and will break down with heat, OR EVEN WORSE catch fire as it is FLAMABLE.
Copper grease imo is the correct way to go.
Rich
#48
Posted 24 September 2008 - 07:44 AM
#49
Posted 24 September 2008 - 04:10 PM
had assumed not water disolvable as it is for masts and also it hasn't washed out of my jeans
#50
Posted 24 September 2008 - 04:22 PM
had assumed not water disolvable as it is for masts and also it hasn't washed out of my jeans
on small areas isopropronol or MEK removes it quite easily, i would imagine thinners would too.
on larger areas like panels etc, at work we use a high pressure jet wash
#51
Posted 24 September 2008 - 04:26 PM
#52
Posted 13 October 2008 - 05:07 PM
Well, Last Saturday I visited Chris and had the following work done on my breaking system:
Service (all day)
New re-conditioned / painted callipers
New UBER Pads
Set of SS 316 custom Pistons
Seal set
All bolts replaced with SS parts
(Plus a high-temp exhaust hanging dooobeee replaced - which was split on my car )
All works great, stops Really well, feels better through the pedal, and the rubbing / humming noise has now Stopped - YAY (See thread: http://www.pumapeople.com/forum/index.php?...mp;#entry770176 )
Would recommend Chris' service - Alot of time and effort goes into what Chris does, and he was happy to let me see / be involved in what was going on too )
All round a good experience and well worth the visit
This post has been edited by FRP215: 13 October 2008 - 05:09 PM
#53
Posted 13 October 2008 - 07:42 PM
FRP 241 RINGMEISTER -23 LAPS = 296.7 MILES COMPLETED, MORE TO COME NEXT YEAR
#54
Posted 13 October 2008 - 07:56 PM
what are UBER pads... sounds interesting
they were OEM 944 pads made by Textar... i was really impressed with these!! i may well be using these as standard 'El dude' fitment from now on.. they fit the size of the disc better than the Mintex and have a good backing plate too. When cut diagonally like Alcons shim, ALL noise problems disappear.. ( i think ..lol).... the pads will need skimming tho if my pistons arn't used..
Keep us posted on how they feel over the next few weeks...
Chris
This post has been edited by eldoodarino: 13 October 2008 - 07:58 PM
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#55
Posted 04 February 2012 - 08:58 PM
I believe you have worked on 441 with regards the pistons, I have her back and thumbs up to you she stops a treat.
What do you charge for a service on the front calipers, also can it be done while you wait??
Cheers
Currently.
BMW M3. www.tremonagarage.com
#56
Posted 05 February 2012 - 09:52 AM
The basic cost of the caliper service is £70 + parts...
Welcome to pop up and get them done again..
Chris
453
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#57
Posted 05 February 2012 - 11:29 AM
eldoodarino, on 05 February 2012 - 09:52 AM, said:
The basic cost of the caliper service is £70 + parts...
Welcome to pop up and get them done again..
Chris
453
Cheers Chris will do, when the weather inproves of course
Currently.
BMW M3. www.tremonagarage.com
#58
Posted 20 August 2012 - 03:42 AM
happy-kat, on 24 September 2008 - 04:10 PM, said:
had assumed not water disolvable as it is for masts and also it hasn't washed out of my jeans
I've came across this type of corrosion in aluminum armored military vehicles.
The term they use is exfoliation & can occur where certain aluminium alloys are welded,stressed & chemically attacked. Exfoliation is caused & accelerated where two or more of these conditions occur, producing these rampant corrosion cavities.
The jointing agent use to prevent this is Zinc Chromate paste. The thing I havn't seen is the effect brake temperatures may have on this paste. It performs ok up to normal engine temperatures. See;- http://www.ebay.co.u...=item4605e79ff5
#59
Posted 20 August 2012 - 07:00 PM