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El'dudes Great Audio Guide For The Puma Part 2

#1 User is offline   eldoodarino 

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Posted 31 October 2010 - 09:45 PM

** Please note this thread is work in progress and will take some time to put together... **

Front Speakers - creating that all important definition and clarity at the front without the rattles and buzzing B)

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Coaxil or Component ??

There's no definitive answer to this one... a good quality coax speaker is certainly a lot less fiddly to install and saves the hassle of mounting tweaters etc... I fitted Infinity reference coax speaker in my dads car and they sounded perfectly ok if fitted well... For the ultimate definition in front sound then Component speakers really do let you customise where you want the sound to go more accuratly, and when used in conjuction with a good amp the results can be awesome!... I have noticed that with having components up front, ideally you need to compliment that with a good beefy bass at the back....

Jl Audio make some nice coax speakers in a tidy 150mm size...pictured here with their RCA leads too...

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here you can see they fit perfectly on the Puma door... compared to 6.5" pictured next to it which has the damper sitting up to the edge of the speaker, squashing against the door card...

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On this install i am using Boston Acoustics SX50 component speakers :)

To get a great quality sound out the front doors without carving up the doors and trim etc is quite a challenge. Here is a summery of what I think the job involves…

1. Remove door card (torx30 screw in the middle.. small screw through the door handle trim + screw lower down on the door card…
2. Remove ‘weathersheild’ membrane off the door
3. Remove oem speaker.. (decide whether your keeping existing wiring loom or routing new cable)
4. Drill out steel support rivets using 6mm HSS drill.. (that steel pillar in the middle of the door)
5. Rip out all female parts of the black door clips in the door..
6. Check all debris in the door has been removed so there is nothing left in there that will rattle around…
7. Dynamat the inside of the outside doorskin..(area behind speaker most important… covering every square inch not necessary)
8. Fix layer of thin closed foam over the dynamat to reduce airborne noises even further (optional)
9. Dynamat over the entire speaker hole…cut a hole out a cm or two inside the hole and bend left over around the speaker hole…work the dynamat flat and solid against the metal using roller or screwdriver handle..lol
10. Dynamat behind the speaker location..ideally covering up all holes so the area behind the speaker is a sealed enclosure.. you’ll see this is not very easy to achieve at all and needs a fair few pieces of dynamat and patience!...
10a Install some acoustic foam on top of this dynamat to reduce ‘rear reflection’ of sound behind the speaker…(optional but worthwhile!)

so far the install should be looking at little like this...

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11. Bond new speaker to the dynamat using a GOOD QUALITY automotive rtv product.. Ambersil sealant adhesive is great for the job!... using your finger, wipe round some more sealant around the speaker to make sure there are no gaps (especially if you’ve fitted 130mm speakers, as there will be some gap for sure)..2 layers of dynamat around the speaker hole may eliminate gap problems even further..(optional)..

12. Clean down the whole door with brake cleaner to remove any old adhesive….
13. Check all cabling for rattling and secure down with bits of dynamat…(you may need to rip out some of the plastic clips that secure the wiring and discard)…sticky foam is also useful…
14. Apply new weathersheild to door roughly..go round it bit by bit stretching it into place so that fits neatly around the door fixing locations….
15. Find the holes where steel support were..poke through and use M6x10 bolts with washers and lock nuts to re-fix the support…
16. All looking good..? then mould the weathersheild down to the door using heat… a hair dryer is perfect…
17. Test speaker is all working well, and wiring is tidy etc etc
18. grab door card... Apply one layer of electrical or gaffer tape strip over all the door clips mounts on the back of the door card… then cut a line through the tape so the new door clip can be slid into place…the clip should now be VERY secure and no rattle at all….(remember the new door clip is already together as a 2 part clip…don’t try and push the new clip into another clip left in the door frame!)
19. When you’ve re-located the door card correctly…don’t bang the clips back into place!.. they just push neatly into the bare hole in the door with a satisfying ‘click’… also remember in the colder months of the year the clips will be more brittle, so a quick blast with the hairdryer around all the clips may save you breaking them… you will need 8 clips per door card
If you have gone to the trouble of buying a new door weather shield then don’t even think about re-using the old door clips..if some of them break then you’ll have to rip off the weather shield again to get to the broken bits left in the door!
20. Install stick on acoustic foam to the rear of the door card for a SUPER vibration free fit...

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Installing Tweeters..

these can be fitted into the black corner trim at the top of the door card.. The very early pumas did not have electric mirror control and so the manual adjustment was fitted here... i managed to source a pair of these trims off ebay as i thought it would make a tidy tweeter install..

I should add before showing the pictures, that after doing this work the tweeters were pointing straight in my face making the sound very bright ...so i have now since re-installed them in a more sideways position using the standard covers...

drill out a neat hole using a 38mm hole cutter....

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then i used the tile cutter to go round the hole on the inside to make it roughly 40mm so i could squeese in the mount..

Glue the mount from behind using a hot glue gun.. and do a silicone 'wipe' round the front to tidy up round the front hole...

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Insert your tweeter and glue again from behind if necessary....

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tidy up behind the tweeter even further by trimming excess wire.. and covering with some sticky acoustic foam..so nothing rattles

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Wizards Of Nos 60hp progressive delivery.... yeah baby yeah :-o
Denso Iridium Plugs
Helix Clutch
Mobil 1

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