[luke]

cc unit?

[FlashBastd]

Yes, Audiovox CCS100 cruise control unit.

[happy-kat]

I am confused by this bit?
I am getting a creaking from the exhaust, so I think my torque limiter may be on it's way out
The torque limiter is electronic. Did you fit the bypass hack?

[FlashBastd]

The torque restrictor (sorry, just checked Microcat, my mistake) is also the name of the part at the back of the transmission that stops the engine fron moving back and forth.

FINIS 1034994

This post has been edited by FlashBastd: 01 September 2009 - 09:44 PM

[happy-kat]

ah that fixing
I think I ordered a new one of those you can get a Tec... sommit one that is even better but does make for more in car vibration.

[FlashBastd]

I did consider getting a heavy duty one, but mine is a daily driver, so I don't really want to make things any more harsh than they need to be.

[FlashBastd]

Got the car on a ramp yesterday, and it does look like the torque restrictor is beginning to fail, which is causing the exhaust to creak at the sprung joint just ahead of the cat.

I am also going to get my gearbox side engine mount replaced. While it looks ok, it was a touch too close to the lower strut bar on that side, and my whole exhaust system seems twisted. While my friend Paul (also the technician at the garage) is happy to cut and weld the mid pipe to straighten it up, if we can make sure then engine is level to start with, that should make things a bit easier.

[FlashBastd]

Took the day off today and collected a new l/h engine mount, torque restrictor, exhaust manifold gasket and pair of rear beam bushes.

Things were going well, battery out, got the old engine mount off and fitted the new one, old torque link out and new one in, got most of the FRP exhaust system off, only shearing one bolt in the process, new Milltek rear box on, stripped down the rear beam, got the top mounting nuts / bolt off the manifold, and then had to ask for help from one of the mechanics.

New OE rear beam bushes in, rebuilt the beam, had to space out my o/s/r ABS sensor to stop it fouling the tone wheel, fingers crossed that it is still close enough to get a reading.

Dean (technician) took over on the manifold while I got the rellevant torque settings and torqued up the various parts I had removed and refitted/replaced. Everything was going fine up until I misread the torque setting for the studs which connect the engine support to the n/s engine mount and sheared the stud. Bugger. So now the Milltek EVO, sport cat, etc. is all in, but I am waiting for a replacement engine support before I can drive it, and as the battery box has to be removed to access the mount, I haven't heard it running with the new Milltek EVO exhaust, which I am hoping I will like, and that it is going to be a bit quieter on the motorway than my Piper FRP, though the Piper FRP back box is GORGEOUS.

Also looking forward to trying the car with standard bushes, and hoping the new engine mount will mean that I can have a lower strut brace without it fouling the gearbox.

The torque link was replaced as the engine's movement was causing the FRP exhaust to creak, that has now been replaced by a Milltek with a flexi, but torque restrictor was clearly on it's way out.

Next jobs are;

Treat / protect the underside from corrosion.
Fiesta Zetec-S front anti-roll bar
ST170 front brakes
Lower strut brace

This post has been edited by FlashBastd: 12 September 2009 - 09:39 AM

[FlashBastd]

Collected the car today and drove around 250 miles, love the sound of the new Milltek, and I am also really pleased with the new rear beam bushes and engine mounts, whole car feels tighter, definately a worthwhile improvement!

[FlashBastd]

New exhaust, think I am going to have to get an FRP tailpipe though;



Poor pic, taken with my phone.

[apj]

You are right the Peco system on my Puma is fantastic what a noise and a beautifully made system from manifold to rear box, but that sonic boom at 65-70 mph is very loud.

[FlashBastd]

So the car has been sat on the drive with it's bottom in the air for the past week. I have been off, and have been using the Honda instead. The Puma is going in next week for some minor remedial works to sort a couple of rust spots, on a rear arch, and again on the drivers door tread area.



Anyhow, I have taken the time to paint up the rear calipers in gold, and also to apply a coat of silver hammerite to the discs (current rear, and new fronts, waiting for ST170 calipers); the rear discs in particular very quickly looked shabby due to very light (but very orange) surface corrosion; hopefully this will keep them looking smarter for a bit longer


Current rear, and new front brake discs, with light coat of silver hammerite to non-contact areas


Off-side rear brake disc & caliper

I have also stripped out most of the rear trim, in preparation for some rust proofing and sound deadening, though both will wait until after the bodywork has been rectified. I was amazed at how easy it is to remove the rear seats, and the quarter panels weren't too tricky either, however I have bought a bundle of new trim clips, and both rear quarters are currently laying in the back of the car, restrained by the seatbelts.

Having stripped out the rear quarters, I removed the speaker boxes to fit some Pioneer TS-H687 6x8 custom fit speakers. The fit could not have been easier or better, but I hadn't realised that while the plug onto the speaker box is a standard Ford speaker plug, the one from the inside of the box to the speaker is not;


Standard Ford speaker connection from rear box to speaker

This unfortunately meant cutting the wiring and fitting new connectors, not really a problem, just that I don't like cutting original wiring.


Pioneer TS-H687 6x8 Custom Fit rear speaker

The new speakers look quite nice, the pods need a wipe down and a layer of Second Skin Damplifier, then they will be ready to go back in when I get the car back.

Also made up a new key, which is really nice to use, but not quite as slick as the Jag key;


Ford Focus II key, modified with Tibbe blade and "RED" PATS transponder

Hoping to get the rear wheels waxed before they go back on, and will probably send the car to the bodyshop with a 15" steelie on the affected side.

Looking forward to getting the inside rust proofed with some Bilt Hamber Dynax S50, then soon get it on a ramp and do the bottom with more Bilt Hamber goodies.

This post has been edited by FlashBastd: 26 September 2009 - 11:28 AM

[happy-kat]

We are having the weather to get on with jobs
I am doing the arches, but really I also need to do the inside, and given you have the panels loose ideal time to get the quirty in there

[FlashBastd]

The weather has been rather good, plus I was off last week, and was pleased with what I achieved.

Dropped it off at the bodyshop this morning, there will be lots of Dynax S50 going in there, I have some Hydrate 80 and Dynax UB for the underside, but that will have to wait for a few weeks.

Couple more pics before it went in for paint;



Rear interior stripped, the side panels are just sitting roughly in place to avoid them damaging each other, I was amazed at how easy it was to take it all out.



Standard 15" spare just about clears the 270mm rear brakes, quite like the sleeper look of the plain black steelie, shame they wouldn't fit over the front though.





Finally cleaned and ready for the bodyshop. I was going to remove the rear quarter window, but I really can't be bothered with the hassle, so will just get it painted up to the bodyline.

Of course I should really have taken a pic of the other side where you can actually see my freshly painted caliper behind the alloy wheel, maybe if I get time in the morning.

Comments welcome, as always!

[YOG]

FlashBastd, on 28 September 2009 - 08:30 PM, said:

............ there will be lots of Dynax S50 going in there,

Don't bank on using your car soon after applying the Dynax S50 to the inside. I did mine a week ago, and despite the doors and hatch being left open most of each day (and the trims still off), the smell is still overpowering when you open the car in the mornings.
It's worth covering the wheels/tyres before you do it, as the Dynax can drip through from the inside.

[FlashBastd]

Hmm, well thanks for the heads up, that wasn't something I had expected!

Should be ok though, I probably won't need it until mid next week.

[YOG]

FlashBastd, on 25 September 2009 - 08:55 PM, said:

...................... I removed the speaker boxes to fit some Pioneer TS-H687 6x8 custom fit speakers. The fit could not have been easier or better, ............

Did they fit in the same hole, without any modification?

[FlashBastd]

Yes, fit really nicely, the only downside was that the speaker connectors within the rear boxes are a bit unusual, so I had to chop them off and fit new spade connectors. I was a bit disappointed about that bit, but otherwise the fit was perfect. Of course no idea how they sound yet!

FYI, cheapest I could find them was here;

http://www.online-ca...shopscr570.html

[YOG]

Great, thanks for the link.

[FlashBastd]

Got the car back this evening, looks like the bodyshop has done a nice job. Also had a few dents smart repaired at the same time, and as far as I can tell, the results are excellent.

Applied some Dymax S-50 to the inside of the sills, rear arches, and around the boot, so the jobs for this weekend are;

1. Second Skin Damplifier to the inside of the rear quarters, speaker pods, and boot floor
2. Refit rear speakers, quarter panels and luggage compartment trim
3. Refit rear seats (gave them a good clean and treated them with some Auto Glym Leather Care Cream when I took them out
4. Clay and polish the exterior
5. Clean interior windows
6. Swap back to alloy on the o/s/r
7. Touch up small scuff on the freshly painted caliper. Should be able to do this through the spokes of the wheel though, so going to wait until it is swapped.

Doubt I will get it all done this weekend, but so long as the interior stuff gets done, I will be happy.