Mojo Restored Working with hunky Danish models now
#1
Posted 28 August 2009 - 10:35 AM
Well, mojo is back, and woking on a new project at the mo.
Abseiling off the Inaccessible Pinnacle
#3
Posted 28 August 2009 - 12:01 PM
Glad to hear the mojo is back. I'm concious that I'll have to try not to get into too much of a rut with what I am doing at the moment, even though I'm enjoying snapping away at motorsport events
#4
Posted 28 August 2009 - 12:07 PM
#5
Posted 28 August 2009 - 12:09 PM
#6
Posted 28 August 2009 - 12:12 PM
#7
Posted 28 August 2009 - 12:14 PM
Did you see the Lego model they made of Obama's inaugoration?
DJ
Showing his age be damned, Pumasparky's sig is *mint*
Everything under the sun is in tune
But the sun is eclipsed by the moon
#8
Posted 28 August 2009 - 12:26 PM
#9
Posted 28 August 2009 - 12:40 PM
Just feel that the granite and background carry the same weight and I think I might like to see a difference to these two aspects of the picture. Maybe it is not that, maybe it is because the granite is sharp right across the surface, perhaps I want to see it being softer the closer it gets to me, then the background doesn't matter.
Do like the lego though, quite compelling to look at.
#10
Posted 28 August 2009 - 12:56 PM
This is really just the test phase at the moment, trying to work things like lighting and background out. Taking your point re focus on board, in real life, the image would be sharp right across the range, as the distance involved, even at f1.4 would create a crisp image.
I have some more with selective focus that kind of work, but only if heavily cropped. Will play with them later.
What I really want is a slightly dull day, and a nice bit of rock, esp for the climbing shoot. Still not convinced that shooting outdoors will work, but if you dont try, you will never know
#11
Posted 28 August 2009 - 01:16 PM
I suppose for a proper climbing shot you'd need basically only the sky behind (unless they are climbing low to the ground ) which means mainly shooting upwards and this could obviously cause some exposure headaches (i presume)
#12
Posted 28 August 2009 - 01:21 PM
#13
Posted 28 August 2009 - 01:26 PM
#14
Posted 28 August 2009 - 01:27 PM
#15
Posted 28 August 2009 - 01:44 PM
#16
Posted 28 August 2009 - 01:49 PM
In this case I would take a reading with meter facing the sky behind the models. I would then calculate the fill flash ratio based on the GN, distance from flash to subject, and how I've throttled the light down ( in this case, a pringles tube over the the flash, with a matrix clipped on the end ).
That way I can get the fill flash to be spot on, leaving the sky as it should be , and the subject illuminated.
#17
Posted 28 August 2009 - 01:59 PM
#18
Posted 28 August 2009 - 02:00 PM
Push your boundaries You have been with the HDR stuff, try it with lighting too.
#19
Posted 28 August 2009 - 02:28 PM