Frp Parts To Convert
#1
Posted 10 April 2008 - 03:23 PM
Including:
Rear beam
Drive shafts/hubs/steering etc
bodywork
Firstly, I know this has been done a few times so I sure people will have the know how here, How much should I expect to pay for 2nd hand parts here?
Secondly, will it still be able to run the 1400 box wiht FRP shafts?
Just want to know more about the conversion before committing.
Cheers guys.
#2
Posted 10 April 2008 - 03:28 PM
the FRP parts are rare, getting even lower in stock and cost a bomb (second hand stock.... not much really and take forever to get enough parts and still way expensive anyway)
#3
Posted 10 April 2008 - 03:38 PM
it's easier to get the 'rally' / F2 parts than FRP ones. I'd suggest maybe you have a chat with someone like Birkbeck -they rally pumas - or Magnum Motorsport, who provide a lot of the parts....
http://www.justgiving.com/bokbok - "Just Giving Site" for the BHWT in Colin's Memory... please help a chicken today!
#4
Posted 10 April 2008 - 03:41 PM
#5
Posted 10 April 2008 - 04:04 PM
#7
Posted 10 April 2008 - 04:19 PM
#8
Posted 11 April 2008 - 08:24 AM
Apart from the matierial they are made of couldnt these rally parts fit on the FRP? Surely it would save some weight wouldnt it
Currently.
BMW M3. www.tremonagarage.com
#9
Posted 11 April 2008 - 08:36 AM
In that case, something like http://www.eurorallye.co.uk/product_info.p...roducts_id=1117 will be more than suitable. Its ready built, and the sum of parts on it massively exceeds the purchase price and, more importantly, its been built with all the right bits...
See you current car and put the proceeds towards this one (or another one).
The alternative is to convert your own car, but I'd suggest doing a quick tot up of the prices to fit the mandatory parts (rollcage, seats, harnesses, guards, extinguisher etc) , and then another list with the parts you'd like (body panels, seam welding, engine, suspension, gearbox, tyres, wheels, brakes, tripmeter etc) The prices should convince you...
Stop being spoon fed and GOOGLE it!
#10
Posted 11 April 2008 - 12:09 PM
The parts I was after are just the ones to convert, but having found the new prices for FRP shafts, hubs, bottom arms etc it will amount to a lot before rally prep work is undertaken. Thanks anyway.
#11
Posted 11 April 2008 - 12:34 PM
Do you require a FIA homologated car or will it be run on MSA club rallies in the up to 1400 class ? Loose or Sealed surface ?
Bang for buck, that car represents good value for money - assuming it reasonable straight and the floor pans / sills are in reasonable condition.
Good luck
Stop being spoon fed and GOOGLE it!
#12
Posted 11 April 2008 - 12:42 PM
The problem lies that I dont have the funds to buy a car outright at the moment but could piece one together over time as I have the experience and space. About 150 bhp would be ok to start with. And yes, the car in that ad is the ideal car for me right now, just no dollar!!! Damn shame actually.
#13
Posted 11 April 2008 - 02:58 PM
the f2 kit is about inch and a half wider than the frp i know this as i bought a bumper off ebay apparently for the frp but it was wider and found out it was the f2 bumper
This post has been edited by Big Boy Al: 11 April 2008 - 02:58 PM
FRP 241 RINGMEISTER -23 LAPS = 296.7 MILES COMPLETED, MORE TO COME NEXT YEAR
#14
Posted 11 April 2008 - 04:14 PM
So in theory a decent bodyshop could put the whole kit on a FRP? The only problem area would be the rear arches I imagine.
This would be a definate option for me if I ever crash the car
This post has been edited by melinamotor: 11 April 2008 - 04:15 PM
Currently.
BMW M3. www.tremonagarage.com
#15
Posted 11 April 2008 - 04:15 PM
With rallying there are a lot of up front costs to start with, you will find that specific puma rally parts are still quite expensive because the cars are still homolgated and there are not many around when compared to the likes of 205's, Nova's, Escorts etc.
Sounds like you will need suspension, brakes, cage, seats, harnesses, tank guard, sump guard, fuel and brake lines inside, bulkhead fire proofing, cut off switch, extinguisher, BARS license, overalls, tyres, spare set of wheels just to get the MSA logbook. Ideally you want LSD, much lower final drive, engine tuning and exhaust system.
If you intend going on the loose the car will require seam welding and lots of underbody guards assuming you want it to last at least one event.
Whats your total budget to compete on your first event using your car as a donor... £5K ?
Stop being spoon fed and GOOGLE it!
#16
Posted 11 April 2008 - 05:24 PM
The 205 is no longer homolgated, although some claim to have a 'group N' 205, which is rubbish as homologation ran out a while ago!!
#17
Posted 11 April 2008 - 05:55 PM
ford did launch a 1400 puma in a championship when the car was launched, but as i recall the competition parts were mainly parts bin not specialised. might be worth trying to find the spec though. it may even have been homologated, try the fia website.
i would think KA guards would fit as would the suspension, though you may need to change spring rates.
i posted some thoughts on the other building a rally car thread, what i would say is the body kit could go on later, especially as the Puma is a good looking and unusual car to begin with.
#18
Posted 12 April 2008 - 11:24 AM
#19
Posted 10 May 2008 - 08:51 AM
the FRP parts are rare, getting even lower in stock and cost a bomb (second hand stock.... not much really and take forever to get enough parts and still way expensive anyway)
Sorry but when the boy try's to buy Puma kit parts then he'll know the meaning of expensive, FRP parts are peanuts in comparison. Try £8K for engine parts, £15K transmission (box&diff no shafts etc), £7.5K suspension etc these were approximate new prices (+ VAT) for the 1.4VK back in 2000 from Boreham. These cars cost over £50K new but can be bought for a lot less now, parts are very expensive.
Mike if your still interested in building a puma drop us a pm and I'll give you what info I have. Have run both clubby group A and VK 1.4 puma's.
#20
Posted 10 May 2008 - 12:23 PM