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Black Ford Racing Puma Conversion Just the beginning. Rate Topic: -----

#21 User is offline   PumaD23 

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Posted 18 April 2013 - 01:42 PM

really cool machine :) even with its "bad" points it looks good!

#22 User is offline   Rayy 

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Posted 23 April 2013 - 11:04 AM

View PostTurby, on 11 February 2013 - 09:36 AM, said:

Looks like a good project car, plenty of things to get on with, though I'd look and treat the rust before its gets too bad. Plenty of threads on here about treating rust...

Looking at the engine fitted, is this an FRP resprayed black and fitted with std 1.7 or a standard 1.7 turned into an FRP with body kit and interior ?


Just had another look at this thread/car, (and as I went and test drove this I spoke to the previous owner who was a top bloke, had an V8 Merc X F1 pace car in the drive!)

The story went: In 2002/3, (3 years old ish) it had been spun and basically every single panel needed work so It was delared CAT D or C by the insurance. Someone bought it for their wife but had it repaired to FRP spec apart from the engine, I think I was told they had "somthing" to do with Ford, but the converstion was completed professionally. I was also told that the front & rear arches are alu on this one... Perfect Dark might be able to shed light on that being true or not.

Nice car, nicely converted properly.
Owner: FRP #076
Current mile muncher: 2014(64) Ford Mondeo 2.2 TDCI 200 Titanium X Sport - Frozen White

Previous:
2009(09) Ford Mondeo 2.0 TDCI | 2008(08) Mk7 Ford Fiesta TDCI Zetec S | 1999(T) Rover 420 | 1997(.R) Rover 620 TD | 1995(M) Mk3 Ford Fiesta Si
First car: 1990(H) Mk3 Ford Fiesta Popular Plus!

#23 User is offline   carrboy 

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Posted 23 April 2013 - 11:12 AM

Cant be alloy rear arches they are rusting if you look in the pics.
FRP 038 - R.I.P killed by an old man in his toyota avensis.
FRP 245 - sold, then killed by new owner!
FRP 225 - sold in 2013 and regretted it ever since!FRP ??? - Now after another one after two years of Fiesta ST2 ownership.

#24 User is offline   Rayy 

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Posted 23 April 2013 - 11:40 AM

View Postcarrboy, on 23 April 2013 - 11:12 AM, said:

Cant be alloy rear arches they are rusting if you look in the pics.


Yup which makes me wonder... the rust is near/on the bond on the sill if I remember? could be the steel it's bonded to thats rusty? (More likly to be that the rears are steel though I agree!)
Owner: FRP #076
Current mile muncher: 2014(64) Ford Mondeo 2.2 TDCI 200 Titanium X Sport - Frozen White

Previous:
2009(09) Ford Mondeo 2.0 TDCI | 2008(08) Mk7 Ford Fiesta TDCI Zetec S | 1999(T) Rover 420 | 1997(.R) Rover 620 TD | 1995(M) Mk3 Ford Fiesta Si
First car: 1990(H) Mk3 Ford Fiesta Popular Plus!

#25 User is offline   Perfect Dark 

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Posted 14 May 2013 - 12:15 PM

I can confirm that the arches are not aluminium as previously stated by the owner, and that the conversion was done by Puma Build.

I have done a few things to the car since I bought it but nothing major on the cosmetics side.

I will post a full update with pics once I get off my lazy ass.
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#26 User is offline   PumaD23 

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Posted 14 May 2013 - 01:09 PM

Get off it then! Posted Image

#27 User is offline   Perfect Dark 

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Posted 29 July 2013 - 07:38 PM

Aight then.

The car had a few problems when I got it. Here's a list of stuff I've had done / stuff I've found out about along the way.



Full Service
The car was light on service history (to say the least)
Engine Oil Change
New Oil Filter
New Air Filter
New Spark Plugs

New Rear SubframeMounting Bushes
The car wasn't exactly smooth over bumps beforehand

New White Indicators
The standard amber was not my colour.

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Speakers
Car came with one speaker trying to do the work of 4, I'm up to 3 running speakers now, one day when I'm older and wiser, I'll have the full set working.

Rear Lights
Left one had warped plastic and showed imperfections and the right one was steamed up, replaced them both with ones from my old Puma.

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New Tyres
Both rear tyres needed replacing, both had punctures.

Wing Mirror
Old one was broken so I bought a new one from Ian G, Cheers Ian!
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Wipers
I got some PIAA SI-TECH wipers recommended on this forum, the ones that leave a silicone coating on the windscreen so the raindrops don't stick to it. Pretty damn good.
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Seat Repair
Gorillia Tape my man, Gorilla Tape.

New Mats
My feet only rest on the best


Oopsy Doopsy
I lost my locking wheel nut key after changing my wheel in the night aftera puncture. Damn! Rang around 7 local garages in Nottingham.

Kwik Fit – They recommended joining the RAC
National Tyres and Autocare – Recommended calling main dealer
Halfords Autocentre – They offered to take a hammer to it, they said theremight be damage
Q Fit – They said they'd have a look, but made no promises
Forest Garage – They took a look, and the guy said they wouldn't even attemptit!
Alloy Wheel Repairs – they'd come and do it remotely, but were pricey.
Mr. Tyre – They recommended W.S. Bates
W.S. Bates – They got the nuts out no problem.

Another Oopsy Doopsy
My Offside driver's side Drive Shaft snapped while I accelerated away from a turn and I had to get the car driven to the garage and the whole lot replaced.

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"Safely back at the garage"
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My Garage bought the standard Puma part thinking it would fit, it didn't. They then bought a 'racing' shaft, which turned out to be slightly the wrong size, which they 'made' fit. The Engine Juddered at around 1.8k revs before the snap,it then initially disappeared after the fix, and was then back in full force after a week! Charming.


Finally someone who knows what they are doing!

I then met up with eldoodarino, and he sorted me out a whole bunch of stuff


Front End
New Anti-Roll Bar Bushes, Clamps and Bolts
New Powerflex Front and Rear Bushes

Nearside Drive Shaft
New Shaftec Outer CV Joint
New Tripod Bearing
New Boots both ends

Offside Drive Shaft
New Genuine FRP Drive Shaft
New Shaftec CV Joint
New Tripod Bearing
New Boots both ends

Much appreciated eldoodarino! Thank you so much.


The car when I bought it wasn't really a pleasure to drive. It was rough over bumps, slower than my old one, and jerky. It now handles much better, is quick, and eats speed bumps (I'm trying to refrain, honestly).


Still to do...

Outstanding Functional Stuff:
1. Car has a bit of judder around 1.8k revs when accelerator is not pressed.
2. Cam belt needs replacing, and all of the rest that goes with it.
3. When there's heavy rain outside, my feet get wet, as do my passenger's.
4. The Brakes would be ideal if they didn't sing when I used them.
5. New front tyres to handle better in the rain, it's currently like driving abarge down the rapids, I'm thinking Pilot Exaltos.
6. Wheels need balancing, and I need new FRP wheel nuts.
7. Garage tells me the Nearside and offside front, and the front to rear Brakepipes are slightly corroded
8. Air con blows hot year-around, despite what the dial says.
9. Heated windscreen has gone, windscreen needs replacing.
10. Rear windscreen has one metal heater wire broken; I hear you can get glueto fix this?
11. Needs a new stereo, with Bluetooth. I fancy a double din job personally.
12. The final speaker would be ideal if it worked.
13. Doors have various rattles.
14. The carpet is coming away from the wall at the driver's feet.
15. I have a glove box light, but I don't know if I'm mad enough to fit it. I'm not sure I'm ready for that level of luxurious convenience.
16. Stereo cuts out whenever I turn around a sharp corner or go over a bump, must be a loose wire somewhere.
17. The spare wheel bolt that you use to lower won't tighten, so the wheel hangs visibly low, haven't had a good look yet.
18. The Tyres squeal quite a lot when I turn sharply. Thanks to Chris I've yet to surpass the grip limit when cornering so it's all good but I fear a knock on the window by the po-po and a question of "What was that all about?".


Outstanding Bodyworkand Cosmetics:
1. Headlamps need a good shine.
2. Rear Fog Lights need replacing as they are currently faded, I have somesmoked ones.
3. The Front Grill needs sand blasting and powder coating.
4. Needs Re-Painting on the offside door sill and the front inside and rear arches.
5. Need to fit my Puma Sill Protectors.
6. Wheels need re-furbishing; I'm thinking of going got a similar shade but am undecided.
7. The whole thing could do with a bloody good polish, with some scratch removal thrown in.


Please feel free to offer your comments, slander and suggestions! We're all friends here.

This post has been edited by Perfect Dark: 02 September 2013 - 01:24 PM

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#28 User is offline   Bentleya 

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Posted 29 July 2013 - 08:02 PM

Looking good, sounds like you've had a busy few months. Chris is fantastic with FRP's and you was in good hands.

I've got the remaining stock of FRP wheel nuts. They are 2.00 each (32.00 for 16) and delivery is 8.00 on top.

#29 User is offline   happy-kat 

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Posted 29 July 2013 - 08:15 PM

FRP shafts are prone to let go if welly is given from stationary/heavy steering load and wheel is turned, so don't snap your new one!
Wont you get new front tyres to match your purchased rear ones?
searching is fruitful | I'm a sponge not a mechanic | The Wiki is cool, please do check there if stuck with a Puma problem whilst waiting for a reply | For the Puma fan this read 'The Inside Story Book' is very nice to own link coming soon

#30 User is offline   eldoodarino 

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Posted 29 July 2013 - 08:15 PM

When I scanned down those pictures i'd thought you'd killed my work and broke the shaft :huh:

Pop round and i'll sort that door card.. :good:
Wizards Of Nos 60hp progressive delivery.... yeah baby yeah :-o
Denso Iridium Plugs
Helix Clutch
Mobil 1


#31 User is offline   eldoodarino 

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Posted 29 July 2013 - 09:13 PM

View Posthappy-kat, on 29 July 2013 - 08:15 PM, said:

FRP shafts are prone to let go if welly is given from stationary/heavy steering load and wheel is turned, so don't snap your new one!
Wont you get new front tyres to match your purchased rear ones?


the problem on this car was the drivers side shaft was a motorfactor part which was a fair bit weaker than the FRP shaft and also the wrong length which over stressed the CV joint...

Someone bashed the intermediate shaft into the gearbox diff despite it didn't fit :unsure: !.. :comp:/>

Was a nightmare to get back out again... felt like i'd done a few rounds with a boxer the day after.. lol :cool2:/> :phew::/>

Chris
Wizards Of Nos 60hp progressive delivery.... yeah baby yeah :-o
Denso Iridium Plugs
Helix Clutch
Mobil 1


#32 User is offline   Fatttty 

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Posted 28 August 2013 - 12:39 PM

Chris is the man!!

Still need to get my CV boot changed by him, unfortunately due to an overtightened hub nut and lack of time he couldn't do it when I took my car to have the Alcons refurbished. Will be getting the blow lamp on the hub nut to heat it up and loosen it and take the car back up to visit him soon.

Alex

#33 User is offline   StevenRaith 

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Posted 31 August 2013 - 12:29 PM

Looking like you're making good progress - better than me at any rate. Still waiting for the PIN for my credit card so I can hammer that and get a few bits sorted Posted Image

RE the head unit - it's 1.5DIN not double DIN, so if you want a double DIN unit I think the entire fascia might need remodelling. 1.5DIN units are around, but they're rare. Apparently you can do bodges, like put a 1 DIN unit in and fit a 0.5 DIN folding screen etc below or above it but I'm not sure how that would look in the end. Certainly you'll have more choice of head units if you stick to single DIN mit blanking plate.

Aircon/heating - either HCV or dead AC. You can get refill cans, but be wary - my reciever/drier thingy, as I discovered when I tried to refill mine, is leaking. Badly. Some parts on the low pressure side are cheap to buy and fairly easy to fit and not too tricky to test with fairly basic equipment as far as I'm aware, but other parts on the high pressure side are really something best left to a professional for a variety of reasons, including safety, environmental, and in terms of cost of equipment to work on it safely.

I'm likely to replace the R/D myself as my bro has loads of experience working with industrial coolants (did his mech-installation apparenticeship in a freezer factory) but even he says not to mess with the high pressure side without specialist gear. Remember, technically speaking, knowingly exposing the environment to AC cooling fluid is a criminal offence. Doing it accidentally (as I did - I didn't expect it, arf) is fine but if you set out to actually work on an AC system and you don't have the capability to evacuate it properly, it's legally dodgy. I'm not saying this to be a spoilsport, either, people have been arrested for it and fined, although it's more a risk for garages than home DIYers...

Check out the HCV (plenty of stuff on here if you search it) first, and if that works but doesn't make the air con frosty cold, start looking at the AC side.

As for polishing, get a decent random orbital polisher and some heads (again, something worth googling for on the detailing forums around the net), do a bit of background research and you should be able to do some decent, simple paint and finish repairs yourself for no cost other than initial outlay (couple of hundred quid) plus your own time, and you can do this on any car you own, so it pays for itself pretty quickly, especially if your car budget is typically a few grand where cars with immaculate paint finishes are rare. It also makes selling the car much easier when the time comes if you can polish out smaller scratches and fill in the bigger ones yourself.

Despite all that, you've got something pretty tasty there. I'm pretty sure, like me, that you don't mind opening the bonnet and emptying your wallet into it every so often for what it gives you in return...

#34 User is offline   Perfect Dark 

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Posted 02 September 2013 - 01:21 PM

The Head Unit:
I have single DIN with a converter at the moment. I don't think it looks all that great, and I'm slightly reluctant to buy a better one as I had my last one nicked (and the side window smashed for my pleasure)... but anyway, I've seen a double DIN conversion on either this or the other forum and had a chat with the guy who did it who said it was a fairly straight forward process. I wouldn't try it myself though as I'm useless with such things so I'd need to bend the ear of someone a bit more handy than myself.

AirCon:
My friend offered me a free re-fill after he found out his was broken rather than just ran out, so I could collect that off him. He bought it for his Toyota Celica so not sure if its compatible, and I'm not sure how to re-fill it either (Though as you say I should search). I drove a corsa with no air-con for 4 years so although we've had a ridiculous summer, I'm used to it (Plus I don't do a lot / any travelling during mid-day aside from going to the shops).

Detailing
No cost (other than an initial outlay of a couple of hundred quid) doesn't sound like a cheap option to me. I've not even started on the looks side of things yet until I overcome some hurdles on the mechanical side but it might be something I look into later down the line.


Cheers for your advise! much appreciated.
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#35 User is offline   CartMan 

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Posted 02 September 2013 - 02:47 PM

I have a double din head unit, doesn't fitt all that good, but it's there, and itworks :)

As for the ac, the thing that you need to know, is that the ac level is mesured in grams not liters or such, what the fancy automated machines do is they have an internal scale which the gas bottle sits on, and you enter how much you need.

What you can do if you just have a bottle of r124a is to place it on a scale (has to be verry accurate and fast) plug it to the finlling point, and open the tap, until the corect amount has gon in.

Hovever, I do not recomend this, as if the system is emply, there is no vacume in there, the vacum helps to pull the gass in. It is also used on the big machines to test that the system has no leaks.

If hovever you'r just lov on gas, this method wil work, but note, that you then have no idea hov much is already in the car.

When refilling the ac at my job, we alwqys drain the ac to se what is in there, then we vacume it for 15-20 minutes, (a damages system should be vacumed longer, sometimes up to one hour) then it holds this vacume for 5 more minutes to se if it leaks, and then the corect amount is filled, along whit additional oil if it is requierd (usualy only when changing components)

I know I don't write the best english at times, but I hope you get the idea, and some understanding of how the ac system works.

Also, you should only fill in the filling point you can se, the other one (if it has 2) usualy is kept hidden, because if you fill it the wrong way round (there is a high, and a lov pressure side) it may result in a knackerd ac compressor :)
1998 Puma 1.7 Replica FRP. innlet nr 138
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Time, is the fire in which we burn

#36 User is offline   Perfect Dark 

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Posted 02 September 2013 - 03:41 PM

Thanks CartMan, your English is much better than my technical skills, and much greater than my appetite for risk. I have to say you have successfully put me off! Sounds like a technical job for somebody who knows what they're doing. I'll pass on your words though, if I attempted it, many penguins and other rare birds would surely die.
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#37 User is offline   CartMan 

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Posted 02 September 2013 - 05:43 PM

Thank you :)/>

I should also add that r124a is dangerous to you, if you should be so unlucky to get it on your skin, it wil give you a freeze burn equal to a second degree burn or more if you experience prolonged contact.

I would recomend arleast having the help of somone who has done it before, but preferably have it done by a profesional :)/>

Did you get the leak fixed, or has it just droped low as from the natural escape of the gas over time?

when you do get it done, have some trace fluid added, so that if it leaks again, you can se where from :)/>

Now, I'm off to burger king :)/> wish me luck :D/>

Edit: I realice that that last part would make more sence if I told you that I am not at home, I am curently in gothenburg sweeden, and althoug I have been at this hotell many times, they have ben reworking the highway, and the last 4 times, the way back has been different, this time is no exeption :) I actualy just had 4 atempts to find the way I used to take, only to find out that it no longer exsists :/ Luckely I know a nother way :) lol

This post has been edited by CartMan: 02 September 2013 - 06:43 PM

1998 Puma 1.7 Replica FRP. innlet nr 138
Projekt tread http://www.pumapeopl...pic=104790&st=0

Time, is the fire in which we burn

#38 User is offline   Perfect Dark 

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Posted 03 October 2013 - 06:53 PM

Some new pictures
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This post has been edited by Perfect Dark: 03 October 2013 - 06:53 PM

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#39 User is offline   Bentleya 

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Posted 03 October 2013 - 08:28 PM

Looking good!

I personally think you need a set of 30mm rear spacers to bring the wheels out a bit :).

#40 User is offline   Kizza 

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Posted 03 October 2013 - 09:11 PM

you would :rolleyes:/> :lol:/>

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