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This is really more for reference, as most threads about sticky power delivery tend to concentrate on dirty butterlfies and MAF polishing; if you actually want to replace the cable (and as our cars are all getting on a bit, it'll likely come up more often), here's what I learned:
1a: Loosen up the coolant header tank, move it out of the way (you'll need a flatblade screwdriver to tease it over a retainer, but other than that it's one screw) - makes access to the chassis/bulkhead hole easier. Do NOT drop the screw, it will fall down to the Land Of Spells and Faeries, never to be retrieved. Or do that, and have another self tapper available, natch.
1b:Probably want to remove the battery and tray to make access to the throttle quadrant easier; it's not essential, but if you have big hands, access can be tight.
Cut the old crap off - the acclerator cable kit (dealer only part, £37 next day delivered) comes with all clips, rubber bushings, etc you'll need WITH ONE EXCEPTION (See below). Don't fart about trying to keep parts. Just cut the bastards loose
1c:DO NOT LOSE THE CIRCLIP ON THE THROTTLE END THAT HOLDS THE BUSH IN PLACE. Honestly, I don't think it'd be needed as it's snug as hell on there, but be careful with it.
1d: Lube the rubber bushings - makes fitment easier. Do this beforehand, trying to do it when fitting will be a sod.
Obviously the above matters for a new part - if you're rescuing from a scrap car, make no assumptions about condition of said parts.
Premise:
Remove circlip on throttle end, twist the plastic part till it comes free - it's a square peg for a square hole. Once that's loose, Remove existing cable/bush from the pin on the throttle lever - you can push the nylon end over the bush and cut the bush off and otherwise abuse it, throw oil at it, etc, you've got a fresh one in the bag. You don't have a circlip though, careful now!
Undo the retaining clips on the bodywork (you have new ones - smash 'em up if you want) and expose the chassis hole.
This next part my dad did as I was tangled up under the steering cowling - but I believe the chassis connection is a press fit, just shove it in.
At this point, you should have already removed the throttle cable from the pedal - it's in a rubber bush, get the cable a little taught and push the bush out with something stiff - I used wirecutters I have kicking about. The hole is in the top, so push it up.
Pull the old cable, throw that piece of crap in the bin. I personally cut the end off the cable and yanked it out, and was surprised to find it was wire-coiled, not teflon - so yes, it would appear you can lube it with a suitable lube without risking it swelling and sticking worse, but given the PITA it would be to get the cable out, I'd just replace it for the £40 it costs.
Get the new cable through, and lift it above the pedal and drop the wire through; then press the bush into place using a preferred method - I got it roughly in place and then just squeezed, again, mole grips might be handy as you could use the pedal to lever against it, etc. Take care though. don't damage the cable. Space is tight, and I was doing it blind as I'm too much of a fat chuff to fit between the Recaros and the A pillar. I suspect there is an easier way to do this....but until someone reveals this, get someone else to do this pig of a job, and while they're doing it, clip the cable to the chassis/engine bay with the supplied fittings.
Get the throttle quadrant reinstalled - reverse of removal - I thought it'd be easier to put the bush on then slip the nylon over it, but faither disagreed and swore his way through getting it on. I still think having the battery tray out of the way would have helped get some leverage-applying tools in there, but hey ho.....
So you now have a connected cable - you then want to adjust it. Remove the adjuster clip on the funny blob in the middle of the cable near the coolant header tank, fully depress and release the throttle, then clip it where it sits, then make sure you're out of gear, and fire 'er up. Give it five minutes to settle to a true idle, then fiddle. If you have an OBD reader, use this to check throttle readings; I never get below 16.4% throttle, and no more than 94.6% IIRC - I tuned this later, but got it back where it was. Test this against manually operating the throttle lever by hand in the engine bay. This is obviously best done with the engine not running, but ignition being on, unless you have no respect for your neighbours or your conrods
Then stomp the pedal a few times to make sure it's nice and secure, and go for a test drive.
I'd say it's a two person job, or at least, it's a whole lot easier with a spare pair of hands.
Anyone done this and found an 'easy' way to do it? I mean, it's not hard, but that pedalbox is tight as hell - is the fusebox or cowling supposed to come off first if you're doing it 'properly'? ETIS says nothing on the matter of replacing the accelerator cable, just adjusting it, and google wasn't much help either....
This post has been edited by StevenRaith: 01 July 2015 - 12:56 AM
