Pumapeople: Abs Light - Pumapeople

Jump to content

Page 1 of 1
  • You cannot start a new topic
  • You cannot reply to this topic

Abs Light

#1 User is offline   danielz000 

  • Group: Members
  • Posts: 2
  • Joined: 18-January 11

Posted 03 October 2015 - 11:49 PM

Hi guys,

Is anyone able to help me...

Having done some work on my car my ABS and TCS lights have come on. The work done was new cv boots, new wishbones, new brake shoes and a new rear abs sensor.

During the work I started the car whilst no sensor was attached, I guess this triggered the fault.

So far I've tried the following to no avail:

Detached battery for 30 minutes
Drove car for about 2 miles
Checked for any obd codes (none appeared)
Checked resistance of abs sensors (rear=1150, fronts=1050)
Checked fuses 30 to 34
Checked brake fluid

As far as I can tell everything is ok but the light still won't go off. Also, I've noticed the ABS self test at 12mph isn't firing.

Can anyone suggest what to check next?

Cheers

Dan

#2 User is offline   Ian G 

  • Group: Admin
  • Posts: 1832
  • Joined: 28-May 09
  • Location:Merseyside

Posted 06 October 2015 - 02:24 AM

You need diagnosis which gets the proprietary Ford codes and not generic OBD.

Disconnecting the sensor loom will give you lights but they will extinguish when the loom is reconnected.

Why were you changing the rear sensors?

#3 User is offline   danielz000 

  • Group: Members
  • Posts: 2
  • Joined: 18-January 11

Posted 06 October 2015 - 10:24 AM

Hi Ian,

I changed my rear brakes the official ford method which involves removing the ABS sensor and hub to carrier bolts rather than the hub nut. Unfortunately one of my sensors was so seized in it snapped whilst I was trying to pull it out. I did it this way as I didn't have replacement hub nuts or a torque wrench which went up to 235nm (i have the torque wrench now).

Also, you're right, it seems the OBD reader I had wouldn't read ABS codes from the Puma.

The problem is now solved however and so for future reference....

After also checking fuse 13 inside the cabin (by the steering wheel) and finding the fuse there was fine I decided to attack the sensors with a multi-meter.

All sensors, old and new returned a resistance of approximately 1100 ohms. I think the acceptable range is 1000 to 1200. I then took a voltage measurement by reading the sensor plugs whilst spinning the wheels as hard as I could. 3 senors returned approximately 0.2 volts. One sensor (from the new rear pair) returned 0.

I took this brake drum apart again and noticed the ABS sensor was sitting further back than it should have been. I think all the rust and muck that caused the original sensor to get seized in jammed the new sensor in further back than it should have been. After removing this sensor and cleaning out the hole with some sand paper wrapped around the end of a drill bit the sensor fit in perfectly and all 4 sensors return 0.2 volts when spun.

What confused me was that I new the sensors were all giving a correct resistance reading and so I couldn't understand why the ABS self test wasn't firing, it would seem that the car not only wants to detect the presence of all 4 sensors before doing a self test but also that there is movement detected from all 4 wheels.

Hope this helps someone in the future.

This post has been edited by danielz000: 06 October 2015 - 10:25 AM


#4 User is offline   Ian G 

  • Group: Admin
  • Posts: 1832
  • Joined: 28-May 09
  • Location:Merseyside

Posted 07 October 2015 - 01:50 AM

Yes the resistance will change as the tone wheel spins.

Glad you got sorted.

Share this topic:


Page 1 of 1
  • You cannot start a new topic
  • You cannot reply to this topic