Oh God, The Smell Ohhh, and also smoke everywhere!
#1
Posted 09 May 2006 - 05:44 PM
am i right in thinking that its just a case of replacing the bit that has snapped and getting more coolent.
i have pictures but for somereason i connot put them up.
thanks
#2
Posted 09 May 2006 - 05:46 PM
am i right in thinking that its just a case of replacing the bit that has snapped and getting more coolent.
i have pictures but for somereason i connot put them up.
thanks
hi ya hopefully it hasnt done any long term damage engine wise.
fingers crossed.
send me the pics to my email and ill upload them for you.
bigboyal82@aol.com
thehn we can see what is what.
alan.
FRP 241 RINGMEISTER -23 LAPS = 296.7 MILES COMPLETED, MORE TO COME NEXT YEAR
#3
Posted 09 May 2006 - 06:03 PM
im sure these are the heater matrix hoses.
but if all the engine /coolant water was gone could this cause problems??
FRP 241 RINGMEISTER -23 LAPS = 296.7 MILES COMPLETED, MORE TO COME NEXT YEAR
#4
Posted 09 May 2006 - 06:06 PM
#5
Posted 09 May 2006 - 06:19 PM
ah cool you should be fine then but dont drive till its sorted and topped up.
FRP 241 RINGMEISTER -23 LAPS = 296.7 MILES COMPLETED, MORE TO COME NEXT YEAR
#6
Posted 09 May 2006 - 06:22 PM
However driving the car with no water circulating could be more of a problem!! - change the valve and prey!! - next time stop and call out the RAC / AA - why risk it!!
Jon (whose father-in-law has just had to trade in his 1 year old car for another new one, cost 6K - doing something similar)
#7
Posted 09 May 2006 - 06:22 PM
#8
Posted 09 May 2006 - 06:23 PM
It is just a case of getting a new heater control valve and then plumbing it in. It is fiddly, but not something you need a mechanic to do for you. Just get a hefty pair of pliars to remove the sprung clips that hold the pipes onto the plastic.
The pipe that is dangling in the picture will have the remains of the plastic "lug" still inside so you need to get this out. (with a screwdriver etc)
Other than that it is simply a case of removing the old heater control valve and putting the new one on. Then top up the header tank to the max line, take the car for a spin and keep an eye on the temp guage. Once the car has got hot, stop and let it cool again. Then recheck the coolant level in the header tank and top up if necessary.
Refering to your queiry about possible damage, as long as you didn't drive to far and the temp guage didn't enter the stratosphere then hopefully the car will be fine.
#9
Posted 09 May 2006 - 06:26 PM
#10
Posted 09 May 2006 - 06:34 PM
If you have no water - its more normal for the temp gauge to go DOWN!
Jon
#11
Posted 09 May 2006 - 06:35 PM
#12
Posted 09 May 2006 - 07:44 PM
It does until the engine fries - then its too late anyway.
That happened on an old 1100 Escort i once owned, engine rebuild required.
This post has been edited by pumapilot: 09 May 2006 - 07:44 PM
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#13
Posted 09 May 2006 - 07:46 PM
fingers crossed for you!
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#14
Posted 09 May 2006 - 07:52 PM
bad = bin.... not too bad = skim
both expensive repair as each other, hopefully you will have got lucky
#15
Posted 10 May 2006 - 08:41 AM
Thanks again
#16
Posted 10 May 2006 - 09:02 AM
#17
Posted 10 May 2006 - 09:14 AM
As a side note to this... you CANNOT totally rely on the temperature gauge to say whether or not an engine is overheating. Why? Simply put, you need coolant running around the system to bath the temp sender in water... No water, no bathing, no bathing, no temp. I've seen plenty of instances of the temp gauge rising and rising, only to then see it shoot back down because there's no water to "send" a temp (as would be the case with a rapid loss of coolant from the system...)
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#18
Posted 10 May 2006 - 09:18 AM
#19
Posted 10 May 2006 - 09:23 AM
#20
Posted 10 May 2006 - 12:38 PM
Also do i have to drain the remaining anti-freeze b4 putting the new stuff in?