My Turn To Attempt The Challenging beating the rust, my progress thread
#261
Posted 25 May 2012 - 09:17 PM
The end result.
Bling enough
#262
Posted 26 May 2012 - 07:01 AM
Denso Iridium Plugs
Helix Clutch
Mobil 1
#264
Posted 26 May 2012 - 06:12 PM
Also cleaned up and treated the horn with Hydrate 80 for the rust and then the Dymax UB.
If this was a mroe road facing area I would have applied 4 to 5 coats rather than the 2 or might have been 3.
This lower area got 3 coats though.
Found rust on the inside of the mesh so treated that after a clean up with Hydrate 80.
Did the exposed bits of te underside too.
Spraed Dymax S-50 into the seam of the subframe and moved the beam around to get it to run all along the seam end to end.
Rear beam previously done matches the front.
Took two evenings to put it all back together, was nNot torqued up but Olly's garage is only a short distance away so drove there last night and Olly did a thorough job check on the ramp and did the final torque up.
Olly has been looking after my FRP since Feb 2002 and before that he had been looking after 0042 and had met Peter Beattie so luckly for me I can still use Olly as he is so close and is a right petrol head. Whilst I have also used Alan at Pumabuild some jobs are too far away for the distance.
With the support of Steve (thank you) using these was deffinately worth it because the subframe can be nothing other then in the right place. Whilst on the ramp I double checked the pins still went in.
All back together and torqued up. Olly possing, thankfully his mechanical skills are much better then his photogenic
Owen Garages Haywards Heath.
#265
Posted 27 May 2012 - 06:17 PM
Denso Iridium Plugs
Helix Clutch
Mobil 1
#266
Posted 27 May 2012 - 06:52 PM
This is a rare one I have as it actually fits and does not foul anything.
I have one vibration issue, comes in about 4250 revs if flooring it and certainly hear it after that when letting off.
It is on the NSF and the only thing I can think of that might cause a vibration noise is the ball joint heat shield.
The other fixings arround that front arch area are plastic and I can't see how a plastic cable fixing would cause that level of vibration noise.
It is nothing in my glove box.
Steering and feel are spot on and car feel as it did before if not tighter.
#267
Posted 30 May 2012 - 08:03 PM
Olly is being peristent but so far the very noisey assumed touch vibration is being more persistent.
Dropping and installing the sub frame has caused existing pipes and/or cables to be moved from their exact original positions.
It might just be my very stiff car, but anyway I now have a vibration to track down and stop that has so far survived two further fettles.
We have plans on what to try next, but wanted to share that if you do the same job you may not get everything back without a new vibration.
Car drives really precisely so the job has not affected handling that I have observed and it looks proper bling too, lol.
#268
Posted 30 May 2012 - 08:59 PM
the plastic housing that the steering linkage goes through isn't vibrating is it..??? that a bugger for taking on noise from the FRP heatsheilds with even a slight touch...can make some very strange noises..
why don't you try taking the brace off untill the noise is isolated then fit again later..?
The FRP manifold is a bugger for noise issues...the heatsheilds just arn't designed for it, ideally it should of had a custom made one..
Chris
Denso Iridium Plugs
Helix Clutch
Mobil 1
#269
Posted 30 May 2012 - 09:10 PM
Have made sure everything is correctly torqued so it is not something loose obvious.
#270
Posted 31 May 2012 - 07:50 AM
Denso Iridium Plugs
Helix Clutch
Mobil 1
#271
Posted 19 August 2012 - 10:56 AM
Stuck my car back on my ramps and touched up where the subframe had been marked, had some Toyota Red tocuh up in the garage so used that. Not perfect but I was going to be too peed off if I got rust on it.
Next onto the door.
Had a few issues removing one of the door fixings, the plastic decorative lug on top was a pig to remove.
The main fixings lined up.
The 8 lugs holding the door card to the door were very tight and took some pulling to pop out.
Various images of the power blocks for the mirror and windows.
All removed down to the door skin.
The plastic fixing clip holding this electrical lug was the rattle culprit. Gave it a rough tape up and went out for a drive to double check.
The area ringed these cable had sod all flex/give so I was limited in how much taping I could do. I used some pipe lagging that I thinned down to act as a brace and then gaffer tape to secure it.
Job finished.
Finsihed taped up door rattle.
The door now only has a minor rattle attributed to the glass and I can't do much about that.
#272
Posted 08 February 2016 - 09:13 PM
#273
Posted 21 November 2016 - 10:15 PM
Jobs never stop really.