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Frp Stainless Steel Pistons very high quality 316 Grade

#41 User is offline   eldoodarino 

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Posted 01 April 2008 - 09:29 PM

yours are Alcon ... They didn't need replacing when 'Baj' came here as they were in almost new condition...

discs will be next tho... laugh.gif

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#42 User is offline   RED IMPACT 

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Posted 02 April 2008 - 01:14 AM

QUOTE (eldoodarino @ Apr 1 2008, 10:29 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
discs will be next tho... laugh.gif


Noooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo!! cool2.gif

#43 User is offline   eldoodarino 

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Posted 06 July 2008 - 10:16 AM

Thought i'd give this a summer bump.... tongue.gif

I'm down to my last set of Custom made pistons again which are soon to be gone!...

Anyone who thinks they may want or need some new pistons over the summer period..(Jul/Aug) needs to PM me ASAP...

as i need to order them now!... (it takes my contact usually around 4-6 weeks to come up with them...as they are very busy doing much bigger projects...)

If anyone wants a set of genuine Alcon ones, I have a spare set going...in fact i may even knock off £100 just to get rid of them as i don't use them anymore... huh.gif

whether i fit them or not is up to you, but there is no obligation either way...choice is yours...

Regards

Chris
453... (looking rather rosy today wub.gif wub.gif )


can peeps just pm me please if any questions... will help to keep the thread a little clearer for others... cheers

This post has been edited by eldoodarino: 06 July 2008 - 10:19 AM

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#44 User is offline   twellsie 

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Posted 23 September 2008 - 03:06 PM

looks like a good product and just to point out that 316 is exactly the right stainless to be using as it is austenetic, therefore non-magnetic, in real terms it is the same as 304, hardness values etc, but has a higher molybdenum content thus making it more resistant to corrosion and pitting.

although i am little confused about this Duralac idea that a few of you are running with, what dis-similar metals ae you puting it on and what are you hoping to achieve?


Rich

#45 User is offline   happy-kat 

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Posted 23 September 2008 - 03:35 PM

the pad rails cause corrosion on the caliper where they touch, this causes the pad rails to start to bulge and eventually means the pistons will not fully retract.
Some use copper slik, others like myself use Duralac which is used in the boating industry to stop corrosion when adjacent disimilar metals are used.

plus the corrosion causes chunks of the caliper to disappear eventually, so long term is this issue is not addressed it means a new caliper as the adjacent pistons to the pad rail ends do not seat correctly in the caliper any more.
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#46 User is offline   eldoodarino 

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Posted 23 September 2008 - 07:40 PM

QUOTE (twellsie @ Sep 23 2008, 03:06 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
looks like a good product and just to point out that 316 is exactly the right stainless to be using as it is austenetic, therefore non-magnetic, in real terms it is the same as 304, hardness values etc, but has a higher molybdenum content thus making it more resistant to corrosion and pitting.

although i am little confused about this Duralac idea that a few of you are running with, what dis-similar metals ae you puting it on and what are you hoping to achieve?


Rich


Thanks for your input Rich... you clearly know a bit about stainless... it's not been as easy convincing others that they are a little bit more 'up market' from the standard ground finish items which start to pit after a couple of years....

i think there are only a couple of people using the duralac idea...(I generally just use a smear of copper grease)... the no.1 problem with the areas that are getting corroded is really down to trapped moisture, unfortunatly the area behind the pad retaining fittings has a dip in the machining (god knows why wacko.gif ) which collects water and dirt.... now this isn't a problem at all if they are removed, treated and cleaned every year, but leave it for 2 or 3 and the calipers start to suffer serious corrosion issues..... also there are a couple of little holes around the back of the caliper which also trap moisture (because Alcon machined all the way through the caliper.. huh.gif ) which lead to the same problem of seized bolts and problems too....

Regards

Chris

This post has been edited by eldoodarino: 23 September 2008 - 07:43 PM

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#47 User is offline   twellsie 

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Posted 24 September 2008 - 07:27 AM

QUOTE (eldoodarino @ Sep 23 2008, 07:40 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Thanks for your input Rich... you clearly know a bit about stainless... it's not been as easy convincing others that they are a little bit more 'up market' from the standard ground finish items which start to pit after a couple of years....

i think there are only a couple of people using the duralac idea...(I generally just use a smear of copper grease)... the no.1 problem with the areas that are getting corroded is really down to trapped moisture, unfortunatly the area behind the pad retaining fittings has a dip in the machining (god knows why wacko.gif ) which collects water and dirt.... now this isn't a problem at all if they are removed, treated and cleaned every year, but leave it for 2 or 3 and the calipers start to suffer serious corrosion issues..... also there are a couple of little holes around the back of the caliper which also trap moisture (because Alcon machined all the way through the caliper.. huh.gif ) which lead to the same problem of seized bolts and problems too....

Regards

Chris


so is this steel on steel (of various grades?) if so the sacrificial effect between dissimilar steels is very minimal, my primary concern, corrosion wise would be road salt and water, to which Duralac will give very minimal protection as it will break down in contact with water, also it does not have good thermal properties and will break down with heat, OR EVEN WORSE catch fire as it is FLAMABLE.

Copper grease imo is the correct way to go.


Rich

#48 User is offline   twellsie 

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Posted 24 September 2008 - 07:44 AM

just to add if this is for a alum on steel application (alum being the sacrificial alloy) i would advise Hylomar PL32

#49 User is offline   happy-kat 

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Posted 24 September 2008 - 04:10 PM

I have been to the Ring with the Duralac stuff, but have taken note and on the next caliper strip and/or brake fluid change (which ever occurs first) will remove it (if I can as it looks quite set, it is only a very thin film....) and use copper slick instead

had assumed not water disolvable as it is for masts and also it hasn't washed out of my jeans wink.gif
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#50 User is offline   twellsie 

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Posted 24 September 2008 - 04:22 PM

QUOTE (happy-kat @ Sep 24 2008, 05:10 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
I have been to the Ring with the Duralac stuff, but have taken note and on the next caliper strip and/or brake fluid change (which ever occurs first) will remove it (if I can as it looks quite set, it is only a very thin film....) and use copper slick instead

had assumed not water disolvable as it is for masts and also it hasn't washed out of my jeans wink.gif


on small areas isopropronol or MEK removes it quite easily, i would imagine thinners would too.

on larger areas like panels etc, at work we use a high pressure jet wash

#51 User is offline   happy-kat 

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Posted 24 September 2008 - 04:26 PM

thanks for the tips smile.gif
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#52 User is offline   FRP215 

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  Posted 13 October 2008 - 05:07 PM

good evening board...

Well, Last Saturday I visited Chris and had the following work done on my breaking system:

Service (all day)
New re-conditioned / painted callipers
New UBER Pads
Set of SS 316 custom Pistons
Seal set
All bolts replaced with SS parts

(Plus a high-temp exhaust hanging dooobeee replaced - which was split on my car ohmy.gif )



All works great, stops Really well, feels better through the pedal, and the rubbing / humming noise has now Stopped - YAY smile.gif (See thread: http://www.pumapeople.com/forum/index.php?...mp;#entry770176 )

Would recommend Chris' service - Alot of time and effort goes into what Chris does, and he was happy to let me see / be involved in what was going on too biggrin.gif )

All round a good experience and well worth the visit woot2.gif

This post has been edited by FRP215: 13 October 2008 - 05:09 PM


#53 User is offline   Big Boy Al 

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Posted 13 October 2008 - 07:42 PM

he is the brake daddy biggrin.gif
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#54 User is offline   eldoodarino 

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Posted 13 October 2008 - 07:56 PM

Cheers Paul... (and Al wink.gif )...

what are UBER pads... sounds interesting laugh.gif

they were OEM 944 pads made by Textar... i was really impressed with these!! i may well be using these as standard 'El dude' fitment from now on.. cool.gif they fit the size of the disc better than the Mintex and have a good backing plate too. When cut diagonally like Alcons shim, ALL noise problems disappear.. ( i think ..lol).... the pads will need skimming tho if my pistons arn't used.. excl.gif

Keep us posted on how they feel over the next few weeks... biggrin.gif biggrin.gif

Chris

This post has been edited by eldoodarino: 13 October 2008 - 07:58 PM

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#55 User is offline   melinamotor 

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Posted 04 February 2012 - 08:58 PM

El Dude,

I believe you have worked on 441 with regards the pistons, I have her back and thumbs up to you she stops a treat.
What do you charge for a service on the front calipers, also can it be done while you wait??

Cheers
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#56 User is offline   eldoodarino 

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Posted 05 February 2012 - 09:52 AM

Hiya, yes i did fit the 316 pistons when previous owner bought the car..glad they still feel nice :good:

The basic cost of the caliper service is 70 + parts...

Welcome to pop up and get them done again..

:beer:
Chris
453
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#57 User is offline   melinamotor 

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Posted 05 February 2012 - 11:29 AM

View Posteldoodarino, on 05 February 2012 - 09:52 AM, said:

Hiya, yes i did fit the 316 pistons when previous owner bought the car..glad they still feel nice :good:

The basic cost of the caliper service is 70 + parts...

Welcome to pop up and get them done again..

:beer:
Chris
453


Cheers Chris will do, when the weather inproves of course :)
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#58 User is offline   coopersmotors 

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Posted 20 August 2012 - 03:42 AM

View Posthappy-kat, on 24 September 2008 - 04:10 PM, said:

I have been to the Ring with the Duralac stuff, but have taken note and on the next caliper strip and/or brake fluid change (which ever occurs first) will remove it (if I can as it looks quite set, it is only a very thin film....) and use copper slick instead

had assumed not water disolvable as it is for masts and also it hasn't washed out of my jeans Posted Image


I've came across this type of corrosion in aluminum armored military vehicles.

The term they use is exfoliation & can occur where certain aluminium alloys are welded,stressed & chemically attacked. Exfoliation is caused & accelerated where two or more of these conditions occur, producing these rampant corrosion cavities.

The jointing agent use to prevent this is Zinc Chromate paste. The thing I havn't seen is the effect brake temperatures may have on this paste. It performs ok up to normal engine temperatures. See;- http://www.ebay.co.u...=item4605e79ff5




#59 User is offline   happy-kat 

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Posted 20 August 2012 - 07:00 PM

I used previously a Yacht mast paste for dissimilar metals (can't recall the name now), and it worked and I had no corrosion behind the pad rails, then I went chicken as realised it may not have the heat range as mentioned above so now rely on powder coating and currently a ceramic paste that is very high heat tollerant to create the barrier.
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