Pumapeople: My Puma Cossie - Few Bits And Bobs. (very Picture Heavy!) - Pumapeople

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My Puma Cossie - Few Bits And Bobs. (very Picture Heavy!) A running diary Rate Topic: -----

#261 User is offline   Dave2302 

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Posted 20 March 2012 - 10:20 AM

Hi Warren,

Is that a Transit one or did the YB Clutch turn out to be better spec ??
Don't like paddles, they are no good for road use, not much good for anything else either unless you like constantly changeing clutches LOL.

Cheers Dave
It's nice to be important but it's more important to be nice !!

#262 User is offline   happy-kat 

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Posted 20 March 2012 - 09:19 PM

Great to read an update Warren, hope you can get to drive your beasty soon :)
searching is fruitful | I'm a sponge not a mechanic | please do try that if stuck with a Puma problem whilst waiting for a reply | For the Puma fan this read 'The Inside Story Book' is very nice to own sometimes still seen for sale

#263 User is offline   warrenpenalver 

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Posted 21 March 2012 - 05:34 PM

Dave, its an AP conventional clutch for a cosworth YB. from looking through LUK and similar catelogues it worked out that the clutch plate on cossie/transit was same, but the pressure plate and bearing are slightly different.

It does drive Kate, just need to rebuild clutch pedal as it had been bodged to work with the heavy old clutch so it doesnt self adjust properly anymore.
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#264 User is offline   stoke7up 

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Posted 24 March 2012 - 01:47 AM

Warren random I know did you enjoy your tea the other week (Trent vale) and how come your f2 mounts are different to the norm ? I picked up the red pumaspeed f2 spoiler off the car from Scally's breakers last week

Alex

This post has been edited by stoke7up: 24 March 2012 - 01:51 AM


#265 User is offline   paulob1 

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Posted 26 March 2012 - 08:01 AM

just spent a few moments reading all this wow warren, you took on a hell of a car and even more of a problem,. what a fantastic job you have done....is she running and working now...

#266 User is offline   warrenpenalver 

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Posted 24 February 2013 - 11:35 PM

Not much of an update lately as ive been skint last few months.

Few maintenance related items!

First of all the shocking roads in stoke have slowly destroyed my suspension!

Started to get a bit of a rattle so had a look underneath:
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The bolt had ripped right out the chassis screwing the thread!!! Had to stengthen it and cut a new thread. Also added a captive nut inside the chassis as well. Now has about 4cm of good thread!

Also had a CV joint split on me:
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All sorted now though. Just hope there is no excessive wear on the joint.

Not long after that i developed a new knocking sound that came from both sides in the end. On getting it on the ramp it was clear the bottom balljoints were shot on both sides.

Sounds pretty standard...... however as my car has custom TCA's it needed a bit of measurement to find out which ball joint had been used. It turns out standard puma ball joints which is useful for a change with my car - something easy to get and cheap!!

However, take off the old balljoint and you can see the very special bodging that has gone into the old ball joint!
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This is how it looks compared to a new one:
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The other one was similarly bodged but interestingly from a different manufacturer so in the bodging process he seems to have clearly just used two random old ball joints that were lying around rather than new ones. Dont understand why when new ones cost £20 a pair, less to the trade. They were definitely old as they have worn out in less than 15000 miles.
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Finally its nice to have a new known part back on the car!!
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Ive also upgraded my "crash cam" as ive had it a few years now and technology has moved on. Replaced it with a chinese special. for £20 seems good value and records in 720p which is more than adequate for my needs and is a combined DVR unit with screen. Its been tested for a few months now and seems reliable so has replaced my old system.

Wasnt perfectly happy with the mount as it sat too far back for me to hide the camera in front of the mirror. Not really a design flaw as such just that im pedantic over some things and i dont want the camera to interfere with my forward vision so wanted it mounted hidden by the rearview mirror when looking from the drivers position.

So the solution was to fabricate a simple adaptor out of carbon fibre to move the camera forward.

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I over engineered it a bit i think as its stiffer than any other part of the mounting by a long way!!

decided i wanted a brake fluid level switch on my car. Unfortunately due to the brake resevoir being an alloy tank, the thread is wrong for all the usual ford brake caps so it had a power steering cap on it. So i decided to get a brake level switch and modify it to fit my current cap.

so started off popping the switch out its cap. You can see what i need to do here:
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massacred the brake switch housing so i can use it on the new cap:
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measured the diameter of the hole and marked out the cap:
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Then got a bit trigger happy with the drill!!
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Pulled the middle bit out. from underneath you can see the raised edge. Its exactly the right diameter for the switch to fit through. Almost as if ford used the same dimensions just in case they later modified the tooling to accept a level switch for power steering.
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Then i sanded the edge clean but kept regularly checking fitment. I wanted it just big enough to force the switch through. You can see the slight waist in the switch. You want it as tight as possible so there is little air interchange into the resevoir air space and hence minimise the amount of moisture soaked up.
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Switch popped into lid snugly and is just slack enough to rotate the switch like on the original:
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Again its almost as if designed by ford to fit as you can see the switch connector just perfectly clears the cap edge:
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And you can see it fits nicely on the inside too:
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The float protector was refitted:
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I also had to make a loom extension as on the original puma the resevoir is on the left side of the car but with the cossie conversion, the resevoir is on the right:
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I have also knocked up a turbo heat shield using some alloy heat shielding:
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Finally i have got round to trimming and finishing off the prototype carbon gear lever surround i made ages ago:
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brake switch fitted and working well!
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Wanted to replace my ancient sierra engine management loom for a while now so decided to get on with designing my loom. After some advice on here i have a loom design ive settled on.

This is the basic wiring diagram:
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I also measured a loom up and had to design my loom plan and adjust all the distances and branch lengths for my car. here is the sketch!

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Purchased all the connectors, wiring etc and then made a start on the loom. Done everything that goes in or near the ECU plug. In essence ive done the easy bit :cry:

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Then carried on down the loom adding the braid and heat shrink as i come to each break out.

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I definitely prefer the kevlar braiding to the plastic braiding. More flexible and seems to be stronger gripped at the ends when its secured.

With all the braiding now at the end of the main loom, I started back at the beginning now on all the breakouts.

Completed my first breakout:
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its nice to finally start putting on connectors meaning bits of the loom look actually finished.

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both ignition amps done now. coil/coilpack wire done too with the third wire for coilpack hidden under heatshrink so when i convert i just take off the coil connectors, crimp on the coilpack terminals and connector and job done.

Also done the MAP connector as its big enough for the heat shrink ive got while i wait for the smaller stuff.
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also got some terminals ive been waiting for. The terminals were from a BMW but fit the ford diagnostic plug connector housing i had spare, so now i have the proper connector on my new loom.
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Also got the right connectors for the ford 3 pin LAMBDA connector. Couldnt find new connector housings anywhere so used new terminals and seals in a good secondhand housing. Got a white one to be different to boring black :cry: and also have fitted a blanking end cap as i dont have a lambda on the car yet but will do eventually.
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Also done one of the injector housings. Used yellow like ive seen on other looms and also right angle boots (in red!) as i got them free and again not boring black :cry:
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Done a bit more and it finally is beginning to look a bit like a loom now!
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Getting neater as i go along and learning tricks to keep things tidy too so if i do a car loom or some small sublooms in the future they will be neater as well.

All done! :content:

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Wont be fitted for a while yet as i need to make all the other engine bay sublooms as im going for a complete front end rewire when i fit the engine loom.

Also will do a set of testing on the complete wire. Each wire has been checked its going from right pin to right connector, and also resistance checked to make sure i have good connections. next i want to again test every single wire now its assembled including a continuity check with ALL nieghbouring wires to make sure ive not damaged it some place during assembly.

finally got hold of the bits i want from a scorpio rear beam, namely driveshafts and arms. I want these to widen the rear track by 20mm each side as it means i can use matching offset wheels front and rear rather than massive offset on the rear just to fill the arches.

Started with the arms. Stuck them outside and used a load of degreaser on them:
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then spent ages cleaning them up and attacking them with a wire brush to get all the rust off. Then ive given them a lick of anti-rust primer.
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Just need to dry weather so i can paint them properly.

Got the drive shafts:
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Just waiting for some concentrated acid to dip them in to remove all the rust. They are just too big for the sandblaster i have access to sadly.

I seperated the stub shafts off as they can be blasted. So into a bucket:
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And fill it with coke for a few nights so theres no greases or oils left on them, less sand gets ruined with grease the better.
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then off to the blasting cabinet. A before and after comparison photo:
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Much better and so much easier than doing it with a wire brush by hand!! Have polished up the bearing and seal surfaces again and primed the exposed bits. Just waiting for some good weather to top coat them!

Also kept the set of beam mounting plates and cleaned them up too. Before and after:
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All done including the bolts:
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I am developing a bit of a sand blaster addiction!! so is my nose unfortunately :cry: cue blowing my nose after a day of blasting and we have:

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Black snot :cry::cry:

Also been working on a larger washer bottle. The puma bottle is silly tiny and mine has been cut back for 18" wheels so a couple of drives in shit weather and you have to top it up. So i got a fiesta one off my mate jacko. He had cut a bit off for 18" wheels on an FRP.

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However with bigger arches and a different shape inner wing, i needed to hack some more out to make it fit. So out with the hacksaw:
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The orange tape is protecting heating element wire i have attached. I always thought heated washer jets were a bit gimmicky as if its a proper cold day it matters not if the jets are heated when all the pipe work and the water tank are frozen up so i have fitted heating wire to the bottle and will do so to the pipework too. its been calculated to draw only 5A and similar set ups achieved 40 degrees celcius so a fire safe temperature yet warm enough to get the job done.

While i was under the arch for the test fitting i checked to see the state of my coilovers. I protected the accessable lower threads with grease then taped over them.
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took a bit of tape off and they are as good as new. you can see in the photo how the top threads are nicely corroded so good job i taped the lowers incase i want to lower the car in the future.

Also took the car to a friends garage so i could have the front bushes replaced as mine were worn out (stoke roads!!).
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The outer TCA bushes were only a couple years old so didnt last long!!

All replaced:
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Also thinking of getting my rear turrets cut out and new ones welded in with a more conventional strut top:
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I want to use normal escos strut top fittings so i can use a matched set of coilovers all round.

The original puma mount had just been plated over and welded up:
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Also on new years day went out up the cat and fiddle in my mates elise
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Then had a massive car cleaning session.
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one certainly knows how to celebrate the new year in style!

Also had a go at making a NACA duct at work. borrowed thier mould and equipmrnt.

Laid up the pre-preg in the mould:
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Pre-preg is so much easier for complicated shapes like that. it sticks to the mould so dead easy.

then bagged it up ready to go under pressure:
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cooked it through the curing cycle and this was the end result:
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even the underside looks cool:
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Got some new tyres:
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Mucho thanks to Mark Barber for ordering them for me as there were only two left in stock on special offer and not sure if they are getting any more. They will be going on my speedline wheels. When i get paid next I will get more tyres from somewhere and the hubcentric spacers i need with long studs as i am using group A conversion nuts on my wheels.

Also starting to plan how to address my high ACT's. Been something ive been thinking about a while but not got round to it as its not been a priority.

My "group A" cone filter is basically near the exhaust manifold :cry: Ive made a heatshield to go on soon and i will also be using heat reflective coated carbon to "box" in the cone filter seperate to the rest of the hot engine bay.

I am also providing two cold feed tubes. one just plain simple duct. The second is fan assisted.

I intend to use a 120mm delta fan - yes thats a computer fan!! Its ip66 rated, sealed bearings etc so will be fine exposed to typical road grime and rain. also designed to work on 12V and draws 4 amps.

It puts out 7133 litres per minute.

a similar sized spal fan pumps out only 5833 litres per minute.

the delta fan cost me £29 from the USA (already have them)
the spal equivilent costs £76 from UK.

I have 3 delta fans.

A rough calculation of a 2 lite engines air consumption can be assumed to be:

Engine capacity x RPM = litres per minute.
2

for a cossie its basically the same as RPM when off boost.

Now very roughly lets take into account boost. The more accurate way would be to use a dyno graph to calculate pressure at a given rpm.

however im just going to use peak rpm and peak boost as worst case.

For my car assuming 7500rpm and 2 bar boost.

that means because the engine runs in vacuum off boost (about -11 to 12 psi) then in effect you are making 3 bar of actual pressure to bring the inlet upto 2 bar positive.

so in effect 3 times atmosphere so therefore 3 times as much air for a given volume give or take.

so my cossie roughly consumes 22500 litres per minute of air. so just over the amount 3 delta fans can deal with.


So in theory I could rig up all 3 fans and give or take be able to flow enough clean air into the air filter box to deal with the maximum air consumption of the engine.

Now im not quite that insane so for the time being im just going to rig up one fan (I have space for all 3 if needs be) with the aim of ensuring lower revs and lower boost levels driving will ensure the engine gets a good amount of fresh air.

I may at a later date add more fans but only dependant on the actual results produced.

So time to get producing parts. I already have some suitable lightweight ducting to use. However i need to create some kind of funnel shaped adaptor to enable me to connect the duct cleanly to the fan.

So take 1 delta fan:
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Take some foam modelling block and glue on a tube that matches the internal diameter of the tubing (so it slides over easily), then get busy with the sanding blocks.

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And the end result once i mould an adaptor will be:
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im going to use the foam plug ive made as a rough mould by sealing it and release coating it. i will then wetlay it with carbon. It will be rough and ready but a few minutes with a bit of sand paper and the inside will be nice and smooth.

its going to be hidden so not even going to try to make it look good as its a waste of my time!! Will reserve the fancy moulds and pre-preg for the cosmetically important parts!

Biggest change is I've finally taken off the RL7's and fitted the speedlines ive had in my basement 2 years! Only just been able to afford 4 new tyres now im working.
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Im sure some wont think white goes with silver, but i couldnt give a damn because long term the car will change colour anyway.

This project was the first one i ever did. The moulds were made a few years ago:
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I tried it wetlay and infusion and couldnt get either to work properly.

So instead i moved onto pre-preg. It was sooo much easier to lay up the part:
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that was the surface layer.

Made a template for the backing:
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You can see how sticky the pre-preg is:
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the next layer was then added:
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The whole lot was then put in a vacuum bag ready to be cured:
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Once cured they were trimmed:
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I am well happy with the finish! just a little sanding for smooth edges and it will be ready to fit!

Also decided to get my extinguisher mould out again. Remade it in pre-preg.

Had to post cure the mould to ensure it would work at the required temperature.

The layup is slightly different with the fabric being cut into three sections so there can be a little movement in the tight corners allowing the fabric to fill the space so no bridging.
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fully laid up:
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Just after i finished with the dremel:
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Needs slots cutting out, edges tidying and a polish and its done!

I also did the same with my gear lever surround. Used my previous template measurements to cut some Easypreg Surface layer to the necessary shape:
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You can see the shiney surface here:
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I then started to carefully lay the pre-preg into the mould:
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Notice the tool i borowed to press the fabric right into the tight corners.

once i was happy with the first layer, I used some 400g vari-preg as the backing layer. Its just going in here:
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I used some odd shaped offcuts to save wastage and as its a cosmetic trim piece it doesnt matter from a strength issue.

The backing layer all done:
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Then it was time to finish the layup and draw a vacuum:
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extra care was taken to ensure the bag got into all the tight corners. You dont want bridging as it can ruin the part.

It was then cured under vacuum at 90 degrees over night (over the needed 10 hours).

After demoulding and trimming this is the finished part:
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All finished ready to go in a car:
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Just a bit of maintenance and repairs at the moment really. Last winter, some mongtard went into the back of me in tescos and drove off. Only damage was to bumper, however it turns out the (---) had deformed my bumper support such that the edge of the bumper rubbed on the fuel tank and has over a year and a bit worn a hole through!

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Cue that funny smell of petrol and having to take the tank off to get it repaired!!!

The next thing has been trying to solve the good old cossie oil leaks :cry:

My car has a new nickname, the "torrey Canyon" due to the oil slick it leaves everywhere in the rain. I call it the "rust prevention system" rather than an oil leak....

It has been made worse by my cam cover breather hose collapsing and having a kink in it which probably hasnt helped the leaks!! That bit solved it was turning to the leaks.

First of all there were the usual leaks on the front of the engine. Both camseals and the front crank seal have been replaced. 2 out of the 3 were clearly leaking. That solved a lot of the leaks at the front of the engine.

However its still pissing out the camcover as the cam cover seal has come out in places. eg:

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Annoying as the camcover was done last year with a fancy Klinger gasket which are supposed to be good. Got some new seals and bits and bobs on the way.

Hopefully should stop the main oil leaks, especially as my breather system is now breathing!!

also replaced a heater hose that had been killed by the oil leak with silicone. At the same time i have removed the plastic bulkhead. All it was doing was acting as an oil trap and was hiding a multitude of wiring sins.

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Wiring sins indeed!!! There is so much excess and unused bodged wiring there that it was pushing the plastic bulkhead forward against the back of the block!!!

Ive tied it back as much as i can with cable ties for now but I'm thinking im better off finding a new loom for this car. The more i look at the wiring, the more naughty word it is, and thats putting it midly!! So i think i shall aquire a spare puma loom, strip the excess and start from fresh.

Also cleaned my wheels! White wheels are hard to keep clean!!
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There does seem plenty of space around my AP's with these wheels so plenty of space for future upgrades.
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#267 User is offline   Ian G 

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Posted 25 February 2013 - 04:14 AM

Mega update Warren.

New loom looks lovely.

I agree about white wheels with silver as well, mine are going grey at this next tyre change although I do actually like them on your car on that pic.

#268 User is offline   Turby 

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Posted 25 February 2013 - 02:24 PM

Looks great warren, I do like the use of pre-preg !

BTW I'm intrigued as to how you do your loom labelling ? I've got plenty of clear heatshring, but getting good yellow with nice printed lettering is a mystery...
A little knowledge is a dangerous thing (Alexander Pope - 1709)
Stop being spoon fed and GOOGLE it!

#269 User is offline   happy-kat 

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Posted 25 February 2013 - 06:24 PM

Fab update to read. Been very busy even if stretched over quite a time.
I love your wheels they are well cool.
You need a sponge on a stick to clean the inside.
I just cut a sponge in half, wrap it tight around a stick and either tree tie or cable tie on, poke in bucket of sudsie water then poke in wheel and clean inside.
Fab to also read your job situation too B)
searching is fruitful | I'm a sponge not a mechanic | please do try that if stuck with a Puma problem whilst waiting for a reply | For the Puma fan this read 'The Inside Story Book' is very nice to own sometimes still seen for sale

#270 User is offline   warrenpenalver 

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Posted 25 February 2013 - 08:48 PM

View PostIan G, on 25 February 2013 - 04:14 AM, said:

I agree about white wheels with silver as well, mine are going grey at this next tyre change although I do actually like them on your car on that pic.

My car wont be silver forever. Long term i want a rally livery again so the rally slag white wheels will be perfect.

oh you breaking any early puma's? Will need a replacement loom in the next few months to strip down and replace my entire car loom in one hit.

View PostTurby, on 25 February 2013 - 02:24 PM, said:

Looks great warren, I do like the use of pre-preg !

BTW I'm intrigued as to how you do your loom labelling ? I've got plenty of clear heatshring, but getting good yellow with nice printed lettering is a mystery...

I am a big fan of pre-preg now. So much easier for complicated shapes as it sticks where you put it. Shame its so expensive, even at the cheaper rate i get from work!!

Labelling is easy. find yellow paper and print the labels using a laser printer. Then encapsulate in clear heat shrink. Laser printing just incase the heat shrink ever lets the damp in. You dont want the labels going blurry.

A lot of labelling machines arent great because they use heat sensitive labels rather than inks so the whole thing can go black eventually.

View Posthappy-kat, on 25 February 2013 - 06:24 PM, said:

Fab update to read. Been very busy even if stretched over quite a time.
I love your wheels they are well cool.
You need a sponge on a stick to clean the inside.
I just cut a sponge in half, wrap it tight around a stick and either tree tie or cable tie on, poke in bucket of sudsie water then poke in wheel and clean inside.
Fab to also read your job situation too Posted Image

updates have been a bit slow lately! will be quite a few over the next couple of months but then it will slow down. the annoying part of working is you have the money for modifications but so much less time!!

I like the sponge trick. Is that rimwax stuff any good?? would be nice to have some magic solution i can treat the wheels with the make it harder for the much to stick. In fact im thinking would the chemical release agent i use at work be of use? lol. Its resistant to most chemicals, is semi permenant, works upto 180C etc. lol.

Its good to be working at last and working in composites is actually an interesting job compared to security which was dull as hell - so dull I often wanted thieves to kick off for a bit of entertainment.
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#271 User is offline   happy-kat 

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Posted 25 February 2013 - 10:11 PM

Not tried the rimwax but turlewax wheel stuff is not bad for helping pre drive to a show.
Have found so far being clever ended up with caked product and brake dust to get off, lol far harder!
searching is fruitful | I'm a sponge not a mechanic | please do try that if stuck with a Puma problem whilst waiting for a reply | For the Puma fan this read 'The Inside Story Book' is very nice to own sometimes still seen for sale

#272 User is offline   StevenRaith 

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Posted 27 February 2013 - 09:59 PM

Must stop thinking about naked carbon door mirrors,
Must stop thinking about naked carbon door mirrors,
Must stop thinking about naked carbon door mirrors.

You aren't helping.

Impressive wiring loom work too - that's black magic to me :roflmao:/>

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