Pumapeople: Fit 300Mm Brakes - Pumapeople

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Fit 300Mm Brakes How to guide

#1 User is offline   ScubaSteve 

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Posted 08 June 2010 - 08:26 PM

To complete this conversion you will need the following,

Essential:

Calipers from a mk3 Mondeo, 2000-2007
Brake pads for a Mondeo mk3, 2000-2007
Focus ST170 Discs - 300mm
13mm Socket
15mm Socket
12mm Socket
10mm Spanner
9mm Spanner
12.5mm Drill Bit + Drill
Caliper Carrier bolts x 4, p/n 6668956
WD-40
1 Litre Brake fluid
Cling film.

Optional:

Brake seal/Dust seal/slide bolt bush/Bleed screw repair kit - can be obtained from http://www.biggred.co.uk/ for around £25 if you wish to repair and replace seals in your new/2nd hand calipers.
If you dont have two people you will need a 1 man brake bleed kit - eg. Gunsons Eezi bleed.

Guide:

First off jack up the car and rest on axle stands. Remove road wheels.

Open the brake fluid reservoir cap and place some cling film over the hole like so, this will help prevent liquid escaping when you remove the brake hoses off the old calipers.

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Next up, loosen, but do not fully undo the brake hose from the caliper. If you fully remove it now you will be dripping and losing brake fluid whilst you are drilling holes in your hub knuckle.

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Remove the 13mm caliper carrier bolts as pictured. They may be quite tight.

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And slide the caliper off your disc.

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Cable tie your caliper so it isnt dangling only being support by the brake hose.

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Now you are ready to widen your holes in your hub knuckles, this is what you will be drilling.

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Drill out the holes with your 12.5mm drill, take it slowly and use plenty of WD40 as cooling agent.

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Now your holes should be big enough to fit your new 15mm caliper carrier bolts through.

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Slide on the new disc

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Now take your old caliper and cut off the cable tie holding it, you will now need to twist the caliper round so the brake hose unscrews, have your new calipers ready as brake fluid will start to dribble out.

When the hose is removed screw it on the new caliper in the same fashion, by turning the caliper, not the hose.

Tighten the hose into the caliper with the 10mm spanner.

Then slide on your caliper assembly over the disc.

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Now screw your new caliper retainer bolts, but only a few turns.

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Retighten the brake hose fully to 13nm, this may twist the brake hose and you will need to remove the caliper again to make sure the hose is fully untwisted.

With the caliper back on, and the brake hose done up tightly to 13nm screw your 15mm caliper retainer bolts in all the way to 58nm.

Check you slide pin bolts are done up nice and tight to 25nm.

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Thats it you are halfway there, just got the otherside to do, I got caught in rain so nicked my mums sun brolly as they are away at the moment so cant moan at me

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When you have done the otherside in the same fashion you will need to bleed the brakes either using the two man method, of, what I did, use a Gunsons Eezi Bleed kit which you can pick up from Halfords.

Pics of them on

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Dunno if anyone wants to wiki this or what

#2 User is offline   FlashBastd 

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Posted 08 June 2010 - 08:34 PM

Great guide, did you clean the inside of the wheels while they were off, or are the always that clean?
2005 Vauxhall VX220 Turbo
2000 Ford Focus 1.6i Ghia
2006 Renault Clio 2.0i RenaultSport 197 - SOLD
2005 Honda CR-V 2.0i Executive auto
2001 Ford Puma 1.7i Black

#3 User is offline   ScubaSteve 

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Posted 08 June 2010 - 08:40 PM

nah i did them as they were off, they are usually that clean, but i thought as they were off and they are going to be harder to do now with the bigger brakes, wont be able to get my hand in there :(

#4 User is offline   eldoodarino 

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Posted 08 June 2010 - 08:53 PM

wow!..they fill out the wheel big time... :D
Wizards Of Nos 60hp progressive delivery.... yeah baby yeah :-o
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#5 User is offline   ScubaSteve 

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Posted 08 June 2010 - 08:55 PM

yeah apparently you can get them on some 15's, but it must be bloody close

#6 User is offline   eldoodarino 

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Posted 08 June 2010 - 08:55 PM

the oem hoses that don't have a swivel end are such a pain in the arse it's untrue....

i tend to talk owners into buying the Apec ones now from the motorfactors which you can easily attach AFTER the caliper is bolted up....

oem ones are a little more sturdy i guess... :blink:

:beer:
Wizards Of Nos 60hp progressive delivery.... yeah baby yeah :-o
Denso Iridium Plugs
Helix Clutch
Mobil 1


#7 User is offline   ScubaSteve 

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Posted 08 June 2010 - 08:56 PM

yep as you can tell by what i wrote its a pain as you have to remove the caliper and unscrew the caliper rather then the hose, PITA

how much are the apec ones out of interest

This post has been edited by ScubaSteve: 08 June 2010 - 08:57 PM


#8 User is offline   eldoodarino 

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Posted 08 June 2010 - 08:59 PM

they must produce some serious neck snapping braking i would imagine as they're for a much bigger car.... are they the same as ones i recently posted piccies of all painted up..?

:unsure:

View PostScubaSteve, on 08 June 2010 - 08:56 PM, said:

how much are the apec ones out of interest


from what i remember... around £15-18 each roughly...come complete with side arm... bargain.. :)
Wizards Of Nos 60hp progressive delivery.... yeah baby yeah :-o
Denso Iridium Plugs
Helix Clutch
Mobil 1


#9 User is offline   ScubaSteve 

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Posted 08 June 2010 - 09:01 PM

thats a fair price might invest soon,

not sure if they are the same ones, didnt see your pics?

yep they are a hell of an improvement over the other ones, and no fade either which is good, got a little plan at the weekend though to improve it even more, so will keep everyone posted on if that works

#10 User is offline   Big Boy Al 

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Posted 08 June 2010 - 09:05 PM

Looking good,

So simple to fit too, I have them on my track puma and no joking they stop almost as hard as my alcons on the frp, they are very strong, so strong in fact it feels like you get the back of the car lifting on some hard braking before corners at brands :-).
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FRP 241 RINGMEISTER -23 LAPS = 296.7 MILES COMPLETED, MORE TO COME NEXT YEAR

#11 User is offline   ScubaSteve 

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Posted 08 June 2010 - 09:06 PM

strange question, but what year is your track puma

#12 User is offline   Big Boy Al 

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Posted 08 June 2010 - 09:21 PM

R reg 98 matey why's that??
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FRP 241 RINGMEISTER -23 LAPS = 296.7 MILES COMPLETED, MORE TO COME NEXT YEAR

#13 User is offline   ScubaSteve 

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Posted 08 June 2010 - 09:31 PM

just wondering lol, il post why i ask if what i do at the weekend works out

#14 User is offline   ScubaSteve 

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Posted 08 June 2010 - 11:03 PM

Forgot to add this image,

old vs new!

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#15 User is offline   ScubaSteve 

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Posted 10 June 2010 - 09:32 AM

might aswell delete this then if noones interested in saving it as a guide?

il leave it for another 24 hours

#16 User is offline   FlashBastd 

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Posted 10 June 2010 - 09:42 AM

Not sure how to add to Wiki, but stickied.
2005 Vauxhall VX220 Turbo
2000 Ford Focus 1.6i Ghia
2006 Renault Clio 2.0i RenaultSport 197 - SOLD
2005 Honda CR-V 2.0i Executive auto
2001 Ford Puma 1.7i Black

#17 User is offline   ScubaSteve 

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Posted 10 June 2010 - 09:56 AM

haha yeah cheers, it was more aimed at admin, didnt think the mods would have wiki access :P

#18 User is offline   grayfox 

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Posted 10 June 2010 - 12:49 PM

This will probably sound like a stupid question but why do you need to remove brake fluid reservoir cap at-all while you change the hoses over?

#19 User is offline   ScubaSteve 

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Posted 10 June 2010 - 12:50 PM

you dont it was merely to put the cling film over as the cap as far as i know isnt air tight and act likes a breather, the cling film is air tight to prevent as much as possible liquid draining out, however after doing this i wouldnt bother with the cling film, it was a tip i read in haynes once, brake fluid dribbles out anyway, so best way is to switch over as quick as possible

#20 User is offline   ScubaSteve 

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Posted 18 June 2010 - 09:59 AM

PART 2

If you own a 2000> year puma, you may be running the newer style servo and master cylinder setup, this is inefficient with the larger brake setup.

Fitting the older style servo and master cylinder improves things a lot, the pedal is firmer and the braking is far strong and responsive.

I carried out the swap last weekend and was surprised at the difference it makes.

If you want to determine what you are running look under the bonnet, the new style has a silver master cylinder with both brake lines on the left hand side and looks like this

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The old style has a black master cylinder and the brakes lines come out one each side and looks like this

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You can get all the stuff for about 40 quid for a scrappy you will need

Old style (black) master cylinder with servo.
Vacuum hose for old setup
The 2 brake lines going to the abs pump from the old setup

Basic guide to fit,

Disconnect battery and remove with the tray, siphon out all the fluid in the resevoir, release the crimp clip and pull the clutch slave pipe off the side of the resevoir, unscrew the 2 brake lines from the master cylinder to the abs pump, remove vacuum hose from servo into the throttle body by pushing in the plastic bush/housing the pipe slides into and pulling the pipe out, then undo the four bolts on the back of the servo, pull the servo forward until you gain access to the clevis pin at the back where the servo joins the cross shaft, pull off the slide pin and remove the clevis pin then the whole lot will come out.

Refit the old style stuff, bleed the brakes before you reconnect the battery, in the order of rear left, front right, rear right, front left.

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