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453 Engine Rebuild Project Rate Topic: -----

#1 User is offline   eldoodarino 

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Posted 12 April 2013 - 07:21 PM

Thought it was time to freshen up the engine side of the car this year...despite having the cambelt and waterpump done only last year!..lol! :blush:/>/>/>

Managed to borrow the engine hoist of my brother in law..which has saved me a few quid...which is nice as the project has already gone a tad over my initial budget.. :phew::/>/>/>

managed to get the engine and gearbox out yesterday just in time before having to come in for family.. :cool:/>/>/>

Here's how it looks... not a pretty site at the moment.

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Work I plan to do is as follows:

Fit a new Short Block complete with new crank and pistons :mad:/>/>
Fit low milage (40k) cylinder head
Fit freshly skimmed flywheel..(am considering a custom made one)
replace varied bits like air charge sensor & coolant sensor etc
time it all up again using new belt and tensioner..



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#2 User is offline   CartMan 

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Posted 12 April 2013 - 08:29 PM

Nice :) when it's already out, would you get some head work done as well? Would be the perfect time for it :)
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#3 User is offline   eldoodarino 

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Posted 12 April 2013 - 08:56 PM

I was wondering how long it would take for someone to mention that..lol

'Head work' as in lapping valves and changing oil stem seals yes...head as in polishing ports and spoiling performance..definitely not! <_</>

The idea in mind is to get the 'standard' setup working as well as possible..and then later in the season start using a small squirt of Nitrous again.. :bleh:
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#4 User is offline   eldoodarino 

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Posted 12 April 2013 - 09:03 PM

Leaks..

if you look here, you can see a common problem with leaking on this engine..notice the small socket head bolt behind the cam wheel (bottom left) is leaking...above this area is fine...

it's such a pain in the ass, as it just works it's way down and makes a right mess of the cam cover etc etc... plus over time lots of dirt stick to the oil :head:/>/>

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Iv'e got a bit stuck now trying to access 1 bolt holding the inlet on...really pissed off actually as it's bloody STUPID design, it's the lower middle bolt...it's just soo dam tight and I can't even get my small 1/4" drive socket on it... :rant: :rant: :rant: I can see me having to drill down the inlet gasget, to try and saw the bolt.. god knows how tickford managed to get the bolt so dam tight when you can't even access it squarely :head:

Chris
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#5 User is offline   Bentleya 

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Posted 12 April 2013 - 09:38 PM

The inlet design is absolotly pants, i've found that my extra long 10mm spanner is the only tool to touch that bolt. It takes me a good half hour to get that bolt out.

My powder coaters sent me a photo of my inlet earlier, i definitely think you should look at getting it done on yours while you have it off. I will send you some decent photos of it once i have picked it up.



#6 User is offline   ally frp364 

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Posted 12 April 2013 - 09:46 PM

I modified mine before I got my inlet powdercoated. I just made a sane amount of clearance either side of bolt to allow better access to remove.

Cheers

Ally

#7 User is offline   ally frp364 

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Posted 15 April 2013 - 10:21 AM

Why are you building a new engine? What is wrong with the old one? high mileage? damaged? etc

Cheers

Ally

This post has been edited by ally frp364: 15 April 2013 - 10:21 AM


#8 User is offline   eldoodarino 

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Posted 16 April 2013 - 01:01 PM

feels slow..

drinking oil like the clappers

also weaping oil which is messy and annoying...

fingers crossed i'd like to get it done within a few weeks during spare bits of time...just need to get the damm inlet off first.. :)
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#9 User is offline   ally frp364 

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Posted 16 April 2013 - 03:15 PM

I took my inlet off a few weeks ago and got it ported and flowed by Raceline and is abit of a bummer to get off. I have modded it again now so I can take off without removing the alternator by slightly reducing the length of the inlet to head threaded stud far left hand side by taking just a couple of mm off it allows you to take the nut off without disrupting the pulley side of the engine.

If it's drinking oil I will put my last pound on it being the Valve Stem Seals as every 1700 I have been involved with seals where guffed regardless of low mileage or high. My Fiesta 1.7 has done only 50,000miles but was drinking major oil. Seals replaced and and don't even need a top up between annual services. Now I bet that's something you will look forward to.........
Will be watching topic to see progress.

Good luck

Ally

#10 User is offline   eldoodarino 

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Posted 16 April 2013 - 07:11 PM

View Postally frp364, on 16 April 2013 - 03:15 PM, said:


If it's drinking oil I will put my last pound on it being the Valve Stem Seals as every 1700 I have been involved with seals where guffed regardless of low mileage or high. My Fiesta 1.7 has done only 50,000miles but was drinking major oil. Seals replaced and and don't even need a top up between annual services. Now I bet that's something you will look forward to.........



That's interesting...thanks for that info, I was wondering how much difference they would make... glad I got them now :beer:

Iv'e noticed SPX are selling pliers to pull them off and a custom made installer for neatly inserting the new ones...worthwhile you think?

The Inlet Stem seals F1029213 are £5.62 + VAT each..Exhaust F1031012 are £4.50 + Vat each... £97.20 at Retail prices..quite a lot of money :blink:
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#11 User is offline   happy-kat 

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Posted 16 April 2013 - 07:19 PM

But if this is it then wow much better than the usual gobling oil suspect which is linings gone.

Would new seals help with compression too?
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#12 User is offline   ally frp364 

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Posted 16 April 2013 - 08:19 PM

View Posteldoodarino, on 16 April 2013 - 07:11 PM, said:

That's interesting...thanks for that info, I was wondering how much difference they would make... glad I got them now :beer:/>

Iv'e noticed SPX are selling pliers to pull them off and a custom made installer for neatly inserting the new ones...worthwhile you think?

The Inlet Stem seals F1029213 are £5.62 + VAT each..Exhaust F1031012 are £4.50 + Vat each... £97.20 at Retail prices..quite a lot of money :blink:/>


Personally I have never done them TBH. Everytime I would do heads I take the seals to my engine shop and they skim head at same time as changing valve stem seals for me.

Yeah I know where your coming from on the pricing cause that's how I felt the first time I bought them. Best £100 you could spend on any Puma. If you weigh up in functional terms what they do by keeping oil out of combustion chamber in very varying tough conditions rather than the materialistic side of things that they are 16 small cups the size of a pinkie thimble with holes in them and a small spring, then you tend to get abit pissed off with the prices(like alot of Ford stuff).

And I bet 95% of 1700 out there are needing them done. No engine should use that much oil. Just become more of a acceptance that oh yeah the 1.7 drink oil.........

#13 User is offline   ally frp364 

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Posted 16 April 2013 - 08:22 PM

View Posthappy-kat, on 16 April 2013 - 07:19 PM, said:

But if this is it then wow much better than the usual gobling oil suspect which is linings gone.

Would new seals help with compression too?


The seals don't hold the compression. I would imagine compression would be lost between the valves and the seats if head is losing compression(or obviously between the mating face).

Cheers

Ally

#14 User is offline   eldoodarino 

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Posted 16 April 2013 - 09:03 PM

I'm looking forward to seeing what state the valves and pistons are in.. :mellow:
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#15 User is offline   Badger 

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Posted 22 April 2013 - 01:07 PM

Hey now, I will not have our hard work criticised....... ;)

Is that leak coming from the VCT bridge area? If so, it is a problem still to this day!

#16 User is offline   eldoodarino 

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Posted 22 April 2013 - 06:45 PM

The weep is coming through the grub screws in the cylinder head.. just tried removing a couple of them on the head i'm working on today...not a chance!..

They're WAY too tight to turn a 4mm hex head in there.. :head: :head: if they'd been a torx fitting I reckon I could have got them out...

Very annoying.. :rant:
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#17 User is offline   eldoodarino 

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Posted 22 April 2013 - 08:03 PM

Anyway..things are gradually moving on... :)

Eventually got the inlet off... bought a special angled wrench with a 10mm hex socket end to get at the damm nut, but still it wouldn't budge!.. lol :head:

Had no choice but to do it 'dewhurst' style :comp: :comp: had to drill holes down through the inlet gasget (luckily it's thick!)..then stick my big riprocating saw in there and eventually work through to the bolt :huh: :wacko: again, GOD KNOWS how they got a nut so tight that you can't even access properly.. :tosser:

Was going to spend today taking my timing off and on a couple of times for good practice..but alas, was stumped again by the VCT pulley Bolt..doh! I bought a female torx drive set a while back but didn't actually check the largest one fitted over the nut or nut... FFS!! wasted a couple of hours going round Halfords and Euro car parts to no avail.. :head: :head: ok, so now it's lunch time and iv'e got nothing done.. :comp: rather than sulk and call it a day, I decide to go to work on the spare cylinder head.. :bleh:

Cams off (they are standard 1.7 cams)... and VCT taken apart..

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Check out this little filter for the solenoid..

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First things first..thought i'd do a simple valve seat test by filling up the chamber with thin brake fluid...

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to my surprise (head only done 40k apparently) the valves leaked quite badly :wacko:

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#18 User is offline   eldoodarino 

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Posted 22 April 2013 - 08:18 PM

OK, so now on to removing the valves...

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here on the left you can see a valve stem oil seal... you can't really tell very easily what condition they are in as it's kind of dark in there.. but they are being pulled out and replaced... (note: exhaust seals are different size to the inlet ones :excl:/> )

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A quick clean up of all the valves so they are ready for 'lapping' back into the seats...

for this I secured a soft wire brush in my vice..inserted the valve into a cordless drill (valve wraped in masking tape so it doesn't get damaged)... and just wafted it round the wire brush taking care not to get stuck in one area, especially around the seating area.... ideally use a rotating wire wheel too so both are spinning at the same time!.... they came up pretty clean, here is the first one half done... the exhaust valves were a fair bit more grubby!

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note: iv'e kept all the valves in order and will replace them in the same order...

Sitting over the top of the valve spring is the bucket and shim..these also need to be kept in order!..

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Also started to clean up the cylinder head now and 'face off' mating areas where gasgets will seat... was toying with the idea of a skim, but I don't think I will, steel rule says it's fine.. :cool:/>

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Next i'll lap the valves in and re-check how they seal again... :beer:/> :beer:/>

More to follow..

Chris
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#19 User is offline   eldoodarino 

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Posted 04 May 2013 - 07:30 AM

Small update..

Managed to remove all 5 cylinder head grub screws..very pleased!. :cool: had to put the head in my conservatory on a nice warm day and gently apply pressure on them.. damm they are tight!. :phew::

The 3 near the cams are all subject to vibration over time and the thread lock used becomes useless and oil seeps through.. :rant:/>/>

When removed I couldn't believe how shallow they are.. :nono:/>/> there's enough 'tapped' thread in the head for at least double the length of screw so i'm going to try and get some longer ones, but it's proving not so easy at all..may end up with a box of a thousand or something :lol:/>/> need to be 100% sure on the pitch of the thread first which is not so obvious.. another week or two wasted trying to get to the bottom of this no-doubt.. :head:/>/> :head:/>/>


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#20 User is offline   Dogsbody 

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Posted 04 May 2013 - 07:53 AM

Your doing well Chris :)
When I had the slight mishap with the valves and the pistons meeting a couple of years ago..
The head was stripped and chemically cleaned, all the valves were removed and the 8 bent ones replaced.
Everything was lapped in and they re-shimmed the valves as over the 80k miles the car had done, things do wear.
Make sure you do check the clearances after you have gone through all this trouble of stripping the head.
I know they had to order some shims in for mine.
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