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What difference do they make and which kit is best?
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Air filter mods do they work?
#2 Guest_Matt and Tiggr_*
Posted 11 February 2003 - 01:29 PM
Unless you are using heavy duty forced induction, or some nifty induction env i woulndt bother. Seems that they make a lavely noise, but bugger all else
#3
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Posted 11 February 2003 - 01:35 PM
Was reading a mag article recently on different air filters they fitted and what results they gave (Not on a Kat) in general the gave 3-4 bhp at the top of the rev range - not really worth the bother.
David
#4
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Posted 11 February 2003 - 01:43 PM
Might increase the power by a few BHP (you need to increase by at least 10-15 to feel any different)... but more likely will loose torque lower down the rev range (i.e. where its useful...)
#5
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Posted 14 February 2003 - 02:04 PM
Do they work???
In the real world No (ish)
Unless you get proper ducting - you need to get as much clean cool air in as possible
- at slow speeds you usually get more hot air drawn in which reduces power - at higher speeds will get cooler air so will improve power
:cooler air means more power
My previous turbo car with intercooler was noticably quicker on a cool day
Think that a k & n panel in original box probably best - see if can do some mods to improve flow in original box???
(info also gleaned from a 1700 cross flow mk 2 escort with twin 40s - ran filterless / k & n no cool air ducting / and k & n with cool air ducting - mixture adjusted as required for each)
.......Most of the 'max power' reports are way over the top re power gains for filters
...............Same as the usual - put an empty bean can on the end of the exhaust and magically improve you nova from 42 bhp to 198 bhp and knock 8 minutes off the 0-60 sprint!! Think that sainsburys bean cans were the best???!!!
In the real world No (ish)
Unless you get proper ducting - you need to get as much clean cool air in as possible
- at slow speeds you usually get more hot air drawn in which reduces power - at higher speeds will get cooler air so will improve power
:cooler air means more power
My previous turbo car with intercooler was noticably quicker on a cool day
Think that a k & n panel in original box probably best - see if can do some mods to improve flow in original box???
(info also gleaned from a 1700 cross flow mk 2 escort with twin 40s - ran filterless / k & n no cool air ducting / and k & n with cool air ducting - mixture adjusted as required for each)
.......Most of the 'max power' reports are way over the top re power gains for filters
...............Same as the usual - put an empty bean can on the end of the exhaust and magically improve you nova from 42 bhp to 198 bhp and knock 8 minutes off the 0-60 sprint!! Think that sainsburys bean cans were the best???!!!
#6
Posted 14 February 2003 - 07:49 PM
Don't forget that Bangin ICE knocks 2 secs off the 0-60 too! :shock:
#7
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Posted 15 February 2003 - 01:24 AM
QUOTE
Don't forget that Bangin ICE knocks 2 secs off the 0-60 too! :shock:
With all those heavy amps and subs and OFC cabling, i would have thought the times would have went the other way :wink:
Mark
Ex Puma Pilot
Belfast, NI
Ex Puma Pilot
Belfast, NI
#9
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Posted 20 February 2003 - 12:03 PM
I have just ordered a Pipercross Viper Air Induction kit.
I will let you know if I noticed any difference once it is fitted.
I am told this kit is the bees knees so it will be intresting.
I will let you know if I noticed any difference once it is fitted.
I am told this kit is the bees knees so it will be intresting.
#10
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Posted 20 February 2003 - 12:03 PM
I have just ordered a Pipercross Viper Air Induction kit.
I will let you know if I notice any difference once it is fitted.
I am told this kit is the bees knees so it will be intresting.
I will let you know if I notice any difference once it is fitted.
I am told this kit is the bees knees so it will be intresting.
#11
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Posted 25 February 2003 - 01:02 PM
I would ignore most of the rolling road 'power gains' that might be claimed by the air filter manufacturers...they are bull5hit.
How often do you drive around with your bonnet wide open and a huge fan blowing air into the engine compartment? Unless you REALLY want to drop the temp of the engine bay dramtically perhaps?
How often do you drive around with your bonnet wide open and a huge fan blowing air into the engine compartment? Unless you REALLY want to drop the temp of the engine bay dramtically perhaps?
#12 Guest_Matt and Tiggr_*
Posted 25 February 2003 - 01:07 PM
Temp sensors in the engine bay have shown that by fitting a F2 vent, I have reduced the average air temp around the engine by 20 degrees. This is especially important when stuck in traffic.
If your inlet air temp goes above 68 degrees, then you will start to experience ignition problems. A fact not well known....
If your inlet air temp goes above 68 degrees, then you will start to experience ignition problems. A fact not well known....
#13
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Posted 25 February 2003 - 01:34 PM
QUOTE
I have just ordered a Pipercross Viper Air Induction kit.
I will let you know if I noticed any difference once it is fitted.
I am told this kit is the bees knees so it will be intresting.
I will let you know if I noticed any difference once it is fitted.
I am told this kit is the bees knees so it will be intresting.
Good luck in fitting it....
Have you managed to fit it yet ?
#14
Posted 25 February 2003 - 04:45 PM
I didn't care about performance reports - they don't damage the engine and make it sound quite mean in high revs. I looked upon it in the same light at when I fitted a race can to my bike - a little more bhp and one hell of a noise.
#15
Posted 05 March 2003 - 12:06 PM
:shock:
I have fitted a PiperX on my 1.7 and it's been great for about 6 monts. BUT it's now started producing Flames from my exhust.
I think it actually reduces the 0-60 time and torque (and low revs)
Anything over 4000rpm and it rules, stick ya foot down and RaawwWWWW.
But back to the Flames.
Very occasionly when pulling away from lights the revs seem to momentarily drop and then CRACK, lose of power for a second and then away. All happens so quick.
I was been followed by a freind who heard the crack and saw a slight flame from exhust (it was dark though)
So, basically just letting you know that I think it reduces performance low down.
ROD
1.7 Panther Black.
I have fitted a PiperX on my 1.7 and it's been great for about 6 monts. BUT it's now started producing Flames from my exhust.
I think it actually reduces the 0-60 time and torque (and low revs)
Anything over 4000rpm and it rules, stick ya foot down and RaawwWWWW.
But back to the Flames.
Very occasionly when pulling away from lights the revs seem to momentarily drop and then CRACK, lose of power for a second and then away. All happens so quick.
I was been followed by a freind who heard the crack and saw a slight flame from exhust (it was dark though)
So, basically just letting you know that I think it reduces performance low down.
ROD
1.7 Panther Black.
#16 Guest_Matt and Tiggr_*
Posted 05 March 2003 - 12:08 PM
If you have flames coming out of your exhaust you have an expensive MOT failure.
For flames to appear you must have unburnt fuel on the rear of your cat converter. If this is the case, the cat honeycomb will probably have shattered (which could explain the cracking noise)
Fuel vapour and the honeycomb do not mix......
For flames to appear you must have unburnt fuel on the rear of your cat converter. If this is the case, the cat honeycomb will probably have shattered (which could explain the cracking noise)
Fuel vapour and the honeycomb do not mix......
#17
Posted 05 March 2003 - 12:36 PM
Yeah, thanks for that, great news.
So tell me more about why my little beast has flames coming out the exhust.
Will it harm anything ?
Does it needs sorting now or can it be left ?
How much (roughly) will it cost to get sort ?
Thanks.
So tell me more about why my little beast has flames coming out the exhust.
Will it harm anything ?
Does it needs sorting now or can it be left ?
How much (roughly) will it cost to get sort ?
Thanks.
#18 Guest_Matt and Tiggr_*
Posted 05 March 2003 - 01:24 PM
Sounds like you got two problems.
1. Unburnt fuel, which can occur during overrun (IIRC there is an air inlet system that should stop this on the Puma).
2. If the vapour enters the cat, (bear in mind that the converter operates at very high temperatures for it to wprk properly) there is a possibility that it could detonate. This will crack the internals of the cat. Not certain of exact cost, but think you are looking at least £300 +Vat + fitting.
You need to resolve 2 asap, as if your cat is not functioning, your car could be declared unroadworthy. (saw vehicle inspectorate/police checkpoint onm A36 a few weeks ago)
Your fuel ratio may be upset as the MAF sensors may not be detecting the change in airflow as you have a freer flowing inlet system.
Suggest a visit to your friendly tuning shop to get the car on a gas analyser...
Soz
1. Unburnt fuel, which can occur during overrun (IIRC there is an air inlet system that should stop this on the Puma).
2. If the vapour enters the cat, (bear in mind that the converter operates at very high temperatures for it to wprk properly) there is a possibility that it could detonate. This will crack the internals of the cat. Not certain of exact cost, but think you are looking at least £300 +Vat + fitting.
You need to resolve 2 asap, as if your cat is not functioning, your car could be declared unroadworthy. (saw vehicle inspectorate/police checkpoint onm A36 a few weeks ago)
Your fuel ratio may be upset as the MAF sensors may not be detecting the change in airflow as you have a freer flowing inlet system.
Suggest a visit to your friendly tuning shop to get the car on a gas analyser...
Soz
#19
Posted 05 March 2003 - 01:56 PM
Thanx for advice.
Also need a clutch so add that on top of cost and yeahh lots of money on repairs. R well.
Cheers.
Also need a clutch so add that on top of cost and yeahh lots of money on repairs. R well.
Cheers.
#20
Posted 08 March 2003 - 11:30 AM
You can also have missing spark, try to change spark plugs and cables, it works for me.
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