My Puma Cossie - Few Bits And Bobs. (very Picture Heavy!) A running diary
#41
Posted 03 September 2009 - 12:30 AM
Been looking at my ISCV and i still cant work out how this hole gets sealed by the ISCV plunger??
Also been playing around with my rear struts. Thought id have a look at the rear mounts to see whats what for when i get round to replacing them.
As far as i know thats a mk2 escort rear top mount assembly!!
#42
Posted 03 September 2009 - 07:15 AM
2000 Ford Focus 1.6i Ghia
2006 Renault Clio 2.0i RenaultSport 197 - SOLD
2005 Honda CR-V 2.0i Executive auto
2001 Ford Puma 1.7i Black
#43
Posted 03 September 2009 - 09:47 AM
Just its not how i would have done it!!! In my opinion it would have been simpler to just fit escos rear turrets so ive got matching front and rear set of dampers (easy to replace etc.). I may well get the rear turrets done as it wont cost too much, the shell already has the right reinforcement from the original strut tops and a thick plate was welded over the strut top hole leaving an ideal base for a new strut top which also allows me to put it where i want within reason.
#44
Posted 03 September 2009 - 09:56 AM
2000 Ford Focus 1.6i Ghia
2006 Renault Clio 2.0i RenaultSport 197 - SOLD
2005 Honda CR-V 2.0i Executive auto
2001 Ford Puma 1.7i Black
#47
Posted 28 September 2009 - 09:51 PM
First of all i pulled the coolant tank out the way and extracted the wiring loom on the passenger wing then removed its plastic protective cover:
Quite dirty really!! Then the loom was quite clearly exposed:
so much for protection!!! no wonder old fords generate loads of wiring problems!!!! I shall be protecting it a bit better later on!!!
I then proceeded to strip apart the Battery junction box. I used loom plug connector extractor tools to separate the relay connectors from the relay plugs so ive got access to hack and maim as required!!!
I need to rewire the supplys and relay triggers for the two relay system i am fitting (my car was fitted with a non aircon single relay cooling fan system). Im choosing two relays for back up and also bridging the power supplys and trigger wires so that a single point failure on either relay AND the fan switch will mean the fans still have full functionality. There is also a switch linking into a spare switch in the cabin to override and manually run the fans.
I have also checked the strut to chassis join and all seems good. No significant movement can be seen beyond the very narrow paint crack which is to be expected (spot welds are below that).
Im still looking to add some metal tube bracing at the front of the car but that can wait until ive learnt to weld!!!
Also i got bored of waiting for suspension, so have bought some 10000 mile GAZ coilovers!!! Tidyied them up a bit and adjusted them for the right strut length to keep roughly same ride height (will need proper corner weighting later).
Note how the threads have been taped after being greased so they dont seize up!!!
Rebuilt them with brand new strut top cups, bearings and bolts:
Should get a chance to fit them later this week and get the car back on its wheels ready for an MoT next week.
#48
Posted 29 September 2009 - 06:37 AM
FRP 241 RINGMEISTER -23 LAPS = 296.7 MILES COMPLETED, MORE TO COME NEXT YEAR
#49
Posted 30 September 2009 - 07:09 PM
Now ive got the right engine on the logbook i only have to meet 3.5% CO!!!
#50
Posted 04 October 2009 - 10:34 PM
got my connectors here which i need to thread through into the battery junction box ready to put the relay plastic casings on:
Once they are in position they clip into these relay holders:
The joys of ford modular fuse box construction!!!!
Also all the loom has been taped up properly as well as being protected with convoluted tubing where its exposed:
Just bits and bobs now to keep things ticking over!!!
#51
Posted 05 October 2009 - 08:19 PM
#52
Posted 06 October 2009 - 12:23 AM
put most the suspension back together now after playing around and doing a bit of derusting where i wont be able to reach:
oohhh look at the hole!!!!
Fitting new top mount rubbers as the old ones were way too flexible and i could flex them by hand with ease. These new ones I cant easily flex them at all and certainly not by hand!
Bit of a pain in the backside to fit but got there in the end:
#53
Posted 08 October 2009 - 01:42 AM
On opening it up you can see a pretty typical PCB:
My plans will be to desolder the PCB so i can use the connector blocks to link the original wiring on the alarm in car to the new 3 button remote alarm module i intend to fit.
#54
Posted 10 October 2009 - 07:03 PM
#55
Posted 10 October 2009 - 07:35 PM
You basically have to loop a bit of the rubber lip over the top mount edge then use pliers to pull the rest of the rubber lip through without it coming off the other side!!!
#56
Posted 12 October 2009 - 01:45 AM
Removed the air filter for access to find yet another bodge!!!
Good job i can bend it back into shape easy!!
While i had easy access i have replaced my thermostat with a new one ive tested in a saucepan and gave the thermostat housing a bit of a clean up.
Guess i should clean the engine to match really!! that can be a mid winter project!!!
Also decided to take a photo of my strut top mounts now theyve been painted.
The bottom fell out my old in car tool bag so ive found its replacement:
Bigger than my last one and a fair bit stronger so should hold all the tools i should need!!
#57
Posted 12 October 2009 - 05:01 PM
Mkae the most of it before study kicks in
#58
Posted 08 November 2009 - 02:43 PM
Finished spraying the inside of the turret tops so later in the winter i can do rest of arch safe that the tops been done!
Was doing some more of my MoT checks and found another problem, this time with the front antiroll bar bush!! I wasnt happy that the ARB to TCA bolt only just covered the ARB stud:
Compared to other cars which sit proud by a few mm's
So obviously something was wrong!! A bit more closer inspection showed the rear of the TCA outer bush didnt look right:
On closer inspection i found this:
:head::head::head: 2 washers!!!! nothing major in the big scheme of things just a bit of extra hassle as its a bit awkward pulling the TCA off and putting it back on, but we like a challenge!!
finished prepping my fusebox for the new fan loom:
All the original fuse holders have been separated and removed so i can fit the new ones once i have threaded the wires into the fuse box. Should be simple case of then inserting the "click" in connectors to the relay holder and putting in the relay.
Another issue i want to solve long term is the intercooler to inlet pipe which as you can see is quite badly bent down:
What i want long term is one of those end fed log type plenums as i can get a simple straight feed from intercooler to inlet, plus with the kind of powers those inlets can flow, then i should never have to upgrade unless i go totally power insane.
I was also thinking about my carbon footprint:
#59
Posted 08 December 2009 - 12:09 PM
is scary what some companies pass off as professional work.
#60
Posted 17 December 2009 - 05:01 PM
got struts sorted and fitted:
I then tapped up my threads but will probably have to redo it when i adjust the hieght!!
Ive also refitted my radiator and fans. I thought my wires were a bit close but its at least 2" between wires and anything moving, i may tie them back later.
While down there im also trying to work out which sensor is which!
I wired in my new fans with twin relays into the original fusebox so it looks factory almost! Its the dark green and black relay. Still to wire switch in car!
I intend to replace fuel filter which is grotty:
and clean up some of the rusty bits under chassis:
and my custom cut up washer bottle!! its tiny!! It shall be replaced in the future!
And here it is back on wheels!! A bit high at moment but i wil let it settle on a test drive then adjust ride hieght accordingly.