Pumapeople: Overheating? - Pumapeople

Jump to content

Page 1 of 1
  • You cannot start a new topic
  • You cannot reply to this topic

Overheating?

#1 User is offline   sccc 

  • Group: Members
  • Posts: 4
  • Joined: 12-October 13
  • Location:Budapest, Hungary

Posted 25 December 2018 - 10:21 AM

Hello Everyone and Merry Christmas.
I have a reoccurring problem and I pretty desperate by now.

I have the Puma 1.6 2001.

The problem is that on dashboard it seems that the water temperature is skyrocketing into the red zone after a few kilometers, then it drops a little then settles in the end point after the red zone.

In one of these cases I opened the bonnet and checked a few things:
- The fan next to the radiator was working on the 2nd level and blowing cool air from it.
- I opened the water tank and a little steam came but nothing else. (As I know if the coolant was boiling then it should come out as soon as I open the the water tank)
- Checked the temperature with an obd2 reader and Forscan and it showed me that the temperature is around 140 Celsius. (As I know it's not possible to have this high temperature)
- If I stop the car for five minutes then restart it, the temperature spike stops at the middle and starts to rise again after a few minutes.

I already replaced the following parts:
- Water temperature sensor
- Thermostat
- The cover of the coolant tank
- The radiator is checked and it's in good condition
- The pipes are checked, I have no leak
- The coolant level is at the max, I don't need to fill it.

Edit.:

I forgot to mention the fact that it doesn't matter if i turn on the heating or not, the results are the same.
The other thing is if i turn on the heat in the early stage of the "overheating" the air it blows into the interior is not warm, so i assume the engine is not warm too.


Sorry for my English I try my best,
Thank you for your help in advance.

This post has been edited by sccc: 25 December 2018 - 03:57 PM


#2 User is offline   happy-kat 

  • Group: Admin
  • Posts: 21763
  • Joined: 10-February 03
  • Location:Sarnian abroad

Posted 25 December 2018 - 03:24 PM

Merry Christmas to you.
Have you checked there are no air locks in the coolant system.
searching is fruitful | I'm a sponge not a mechanic | The Wiki is cool, please do check there if stuck with a Puma problem whilst waiting for a reply | For the Puma fan this read 'The Inside Story Book' is very nice to own link coming soon

#3 User is offline   sccc 

  • Group: Members
  • Posts: 4
  • Joined: 12-October 13
  • Location:Budapest, Hungary

Posted 25 December 2018 - 03:58 PM

Maybe it's a dumb question, but how can i check it?

#4 User is offline   happy-kat 

  • Group: Admin
  • Posts: 21763
  • Joined: 10-February 03
  • Location:Sarnian abroad

Posted 25 December 2018 - 06:47 PM

I am not a mechanic so I can't give you direction there, I think you might find something in a general car mechanic book from a library.
Have a look at these posts they may help.

http://www.pumapeopl...=1
http://www.pumapeopl...perature++guage
http://www.pumapeopl...=1
searching is fruitful | I'm a sponge not a mechanic | The Wiki is cool, please do check there if stuck with a Puma problem whilst waiting for a reply | For the Puma fan this read 'The Inside Story Book' is very nice to own link coming soon

#5 User is offline   Ian G 

  • Group: Admin
  • Posts: 1790
  • Joined: 28-May 09
  • Location:Merseyside

Posted 27 December 2018 - 12:17 AM

View Postsccc, on 25 December 2018 - 10:21 AM, said:


The other thing is if i turn on the heat in the early stage of the "overheating" the air it blows into the interior is not warm, so i assume the engine is not warm too.



Or there is no coolant in that part of the system.

That would also explain why the gauge moves so quickly, because water and air will measure differently.

Does the Forscan reading make sense if you watch it from cold all the way up?

Can't remember what your reading is at open circuit when unplugged but 140 does sound a little high.

#6 User is offline   sccc 

  • Group: Members
  • Posts: 4
  • Joined: 12-October 13
  • Location:Budapest, Hungary

Posted 27 December 2018 - 07:29 AM

View PostIan G, on 27 December 2018 - 12:17 AM, said:

Or there is no coolant in that part of the system.

That would also explain why the gauge moves so quickly, because water and air will measure differently.

Does the Forscan reading make sense if you watch it from cold all the way up?

Can't remember what your reading is at open circuit when unplugged but 140 does sound a little high.


Hi,

Thank you for your answer.

If under "makes sense" you mean it was normal to a point yes, but yes it was 140 Celcius when i measured at normal use.

#7 User is offline   Ian G 

  • Group: Admin
  • Posts: 1790
  • Joined: 28-May 09
  • Location:Merseyside

Posted 28 December 2018 - 12:03 AM

See if you can get the value on the graph and watch it as the engine warms up. You want to a nice steady rising line.

#8 User is offline   sccc 

  • Group: Members
  • Posts: 4
  • Joined: 12-October 13
  • Location:Budapest, Hungary

Posted 02 January 2019 - 01:56 PM

View PostIan G, on 28 December 2018 - 12:03 AM, said:

See if you can get the value on the graph and watch it as the engine warms up. You want to a nice steady rising line.


Can you tell me where can i get this graph?

Thank you

#9 User is offline   Ian G 

  • Group: Admin
  • Posts: 1790
  • Joined: 28-May 09
  • Location:Merseyside

Posted 03 January 2019 - 12:54 AM

Oscilloscope tab in Forscan. If you can find the temperature reading it is close to that.

Share this topic:


Page 1 of 1
  • You cannot start a new topic
  • You cannot reply to this topic