[eldoodarino]

yeah i meant the anti-roll bar itself.. can imagine the handling will be very crisp with a new one..

with the subframe lowered it will be very easy to slip out...

knuckle... you don't need a 'special tool' my special tool is a brick hammer to wack it off the damper..lol

Chris

[happy-kat]

I will ask Olly to point out what that part is Chris and then take it from there having trawled the gallery I am still none the wiser.

Going back to my wishbone and what bit to not get powder coated. This image of yours Chris answers my earlier question about the three holes as I now see that this is the ball joint part. So am I right in thinking that the areas I need to protect from glupy paint are the three areas onto which the bolts fit for mounting the ball joint. Or am I completely missing the plot and it is actually meant to not use glupy paint the other end where the single bush thing is (showing top left and bottom right of image) ?



a little knowledge is dangerous, lol and even less is just plain useless

[eldoodarino]

having a coating at the bush holes doesn't matter as a ten tonne press will soon push the bush through without any issues..

(use powerflex for the small front socket though)... i think your on the right thought with the ball joints now..ideally they should be steel to steel i think without coating in between.... and ideally rivited

Anti-roll bar...

think about your knuckles..then the jointed anti-roll link bars... the anti-roll bar itself is strapped down with those little 'D' Bushes...kind of like a lower strut brace... defo. worth fitting a new one with new D bushes if your removing the sub frame i'd say personally...

[happy-kat]

Thank you Chris

So added to my list are new bushes (I have a feeling if those wont hammer out Olly will be drilling them out, not sure he has a bench press) plus new ones for the socket, though these may end up Ford for convenience.

[ScubaSteve]

you mean the track rod end ball joint? i dont bother seperating it, just undo the nut holding it on and slide it out

[ScubaSteve]

oh just read what you mean, nah bit of wd40 and a hammer and it taps off

[ScubaSteve]

if you dont want to damage your knuckle though eg if its painted or powdercoated, just buy these

http://www.ebay.co.u...984.m1439.l2649

[happy-kat]

Thanks guys. My knuckles are not treated and Olly comes tomorrow so no time to order the parts suggested, but thank you for the link.
I am very confused on all of this, so I think I am going to trust Olly to nurse me through it

I have a thought.

Is the ball joint on the wishbone heat tolerant, as in no rubber bits or anything does anyone know please?

Only I could mask it and then get the rest of the wishbone blasted then zinc primted and lastly powder coated. The place I use has tape that can withstand the process so could protect that area if it were heat tolerant as an idea.

[eldoodarino]

I wouldn't put a ball joint through a powder coat oven...eek..

[eldoodarino]

ScubaSteve, on 04 April 2012 - 10:43 AM, said:

if you dont want to damage your knuckle though eg if its painted or powdercoated, just buy these

http://www.ebay.co.u...984.m1439.l2649

I can't picture where u you would use that..?

[ScubaSteve]

It has a rubber seal on it

[ScubaSteve]

eldoodarino, on 04 April 2012 - 07:36 PM, said:

I can't picture where u you would use that..?

Tap them in the split on the back of the hole the shock sits in, turn it with a ratchet and it opens up the hole

[eldoodarino]

wow..that does sound useful!.. have you used them? i would have thought the gap hardly moves..

[happy-kat]

The cough* reference uses a tool very much like what you use to start to remove an inner tube on a bike wheel and then you turn it 90 degress and then an alan key was mentioned.

[ScubaSteve]

Iv not used it on a puma but did on my fabia vrs which worked fine

[happy-kat]

My subframe is now off, rust was only in a few minor places so caught it in time to make it proper last hopefully.
Bit of a pig of a job.

Does any one know the part number for the ball joint for the wishbones please?

[ScubaSteve]

will ring tomorrow for those pins

[happy-kat]

Thank you.

Got part numbers, did some digging.
1042691 x 2 for the rear bush (the other bush I already have powerflex in) £26.31
1679398 x 2 ball joint (comes with fixings) (hope that these are still available!) £48.38
6797866 x 4 nut and washer £1.42
1009751 x 2 bolt £2.32
1009747 x 2 bolt changed number to 1038960 £1.87
1037811 x pack of 10 heat shields fixings now changed number to 1476404 £0.57

Additional parts ordered.
6080625 x2 screw £1.11
1007932 x4 rivet £0.70
6742257 x1 screw and washer £1.54
1505594 x 4 nut hex £0.90

This post has been edited by happy-kat: 12 April 2012 - 06:27 PM
Reason for edit: prices per single unit added pre discount at till

[ScubaSteve]

if i havent replied here by 2 pm me to remind me

[ScubaSteve]

PM sent regarding special tool 205-316A