Help
Hi all, got a bit of a strange one here, been happening for a couple of months now. No matter how cold or miserable it is the car will start first time everytime, not a problem. However whilst still cold if we approach a hill like the one near our house when you put the clutch in the engine will cut out! Picking the clutch up quick enough will start it again or failing that back to the key which starts it up straight away again. At first it was only doing it from cold, as you can imagine pretty dangerous when in a line of traffic and turning a corner onto a hill! However just recently its started doing it even after being run for long time, a steep hill and its gone. She's up at 140k but runs great other than this, been well looked after just this problem. I'm thinking a fuel starvation thing?? Any ideas, much appreciated! Planning journeys without hills is getting a tad annoying. Thanks in advance
Dean
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Engine Cutting Out!
#2
- Group: Members
- Posts: 333
- Joined: 09-December 07
- Location:Ockendon Essex
Posted 20 April 2008 - 12:25 PM
can you go up to your can and tell me if you can pull the acclerator pedal backwards, (away from the ground) mine cut out a couple of times and i thought this pedal is not tightened correctly it used to move backwards about a inch so i adjusted it and its ok now before the tacho used to have trouble staying at 1000 rpm when i depressed the clutch say at lights it would dip down then raise back up i believe the cable was causing this its fine now
leave the bloody thing alone will ya its looks best standard thats the way it should be kept
#3
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- Posts: 1469
- Joined: 09-October 06
- Location:Nr. Dover
Posted 20 April 2008 - 01:38 PM
Sounds like your Idle Speed Control Valve is getting gummed up. Have a search in the gallery, there are a fair few pictures of the culprit. Undo the two bolts holding it to the inlet manifold, give it a good blast with some carb cleaner, bolt it back on and all should be well
S*** LRX, usually belting between Dover and Maidstone by any means except the M20
Weitec GT Coilovers, Powerflex bushes, Milltek full FRP exhaust, 280mm front brakes
Low slung, taught, powerful and stops on a dime.
Weitec GT Coilovers, Powerflex bushes, Milltek full FRP exhaust, 280mm front brakes
Low slung, taught, powerful and stops on a dime.
#4
Posted 21 April 2008 - 04:46 PM
Thanks for the info. Got a few little jobs to be doing as well so will do these and fingers crossed get a result.
Thanks again for the help
Dean
Thanks again for the help
Dean
#5
- Group: Members
- Posts: 1469
- Joined: 09-October 06
- Location:Nr. Dover
Posted 21 April 2008 - 09:08 PM
If you're handy with spanners, it's probably also worth pulling the MAF sensor (again check in the gallery, several very well labelled pics of this) off and giving the wires inside a blast with the carb cleaner. Can't hurt.
S*** LRX, usually belting between Dover and Maidstone by any means except the M20
Weitec GT Coilovers, Powerflex bushes, Milltek full FRP exhaust, 280mm front brakes
Low slung, taught, powerful and stops on a dime.
Weitec GT Coilovers, Powerflex bushes, Milltek full FRP exhaust, 280mm front brakes
Low slung, taught, powerful and stops on a dime.
#6
Posted 22 April 2008 - 05:57 PM
there is a detailed post with pictures on cleaing the Idle control valve, try a search 
searching is fruitful | I'm a sponge not a mechanic | please do try that if stuck with a Puma problem whilst waiting for a reply | For the Puma fan this read 'The Inside Story Book' is very nice to own sometimes still seen for sale
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