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Getting To Know 113 Issues and problems

#1 User is offline   Polypedates 

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Posted 30 December 2012 - 12:22 PM

Hi all, newbie here Posted Image/>

Recently acquired 113 and enjoying it immensely but have some issues to sort out.

First the big one - does the FRP have ABS and Traction Control? The standard Puma manual that came with the car and what info I've managed to garner online implies it does but neither system is functioning on this car and there are no warning lights showing on the dash, not even at start up. At a guess I'd say the bulbs have been removed to hide the fault but I don't want to start stripping the binnacle out to check until I'm sure. I tried to check the ABS fuses but the engine bay fuse box layout does not correlate to the manual and the fuse numbers do not match the amperages quoted therein so am I right in thinking the FRP is different in this regard and if so where can I get the relevant information for this car?

Secondly, the courtesy light/door open warning does not operate off the drivers door and it is not the switch as as swapping them around makes no difference - has anyone had this before and can offer a likely remedy? Other than that it seems fine as it operates off the passenger door and when the car is unlocked or the engine switched off. I'm wondering if the door jams have been painted at some point and interfered with the earthing via the mounting screw but not sure as electronics are not my forte.

Thirdly, how can I stop the passenger side headlight filling with water? The old one had loads sloshing about in there after the rain but as all but one of the clips were snapped it was perhaps to be expected. After unsuccessfully trying to fix it using silicone sealant I went out and bought a brand new one nut that too is now almost totally white with condensation inside the covers and taking the car for a drive with the headlights on to try and dry it out made it worse! The other one is fine strangely and it is driving me mad as nothing looks more rubbish than a FRP with one white headlight. It is currently off the car again and sitting on the Aga drying out but I need to decide if it is faulty and I need to send it back for a replacement or whether I should try the silicone sealant on it given that it is new.

Fourth, the remote part of the central locking has failed but I'm guessing a new key will sort that and for now I'm just using the door key.

Fifth, the door cards are not attached properly. I'm hoping this will be an easy fix once I can remove them and identify the problem (new clips at a guess). Anyone else had this?

Finally, is there a decent specialist in the south - preferably West Sussex, Hampshire, Berkshire area - as it is a long way to Pumabuild from here?

Sorry for all the questions but I don't have a garage and it has been too wet since I got the car to do a great deal on it. I'd hoped to work on it over the holiday but it has just rained constantly so no joy there!

So in short it is a great car to drive but Ford build quality seems as dismal as ever and is reminding me why I haven't touched one since my woeful Escort. That said, I dont regret buying it even though I allowed my heart to rule my head but I do want to get it sorted and I can't have it off the road as I need it to get about and get to work in (it has to earn its keep this one).

Thanks

This post has been edited by Polypedates: 30 December 2012 - 02:55 PM

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#2 User is offline   evilrob 

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Posted 30 December 2012 - 02:59 PM

Can't help with your problems, but the best garage on the south for Pumas bar none is Tremona in Southampton.

Or there's Owen Garages in Haywards Heath that know their way around an FRP which also come highly recommended.

#3 User is offline   Ian G 

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Posted 30 December 2012 - 05:35 PM

1 - yes. Lack of lights on start up would indicate they've been removed.

2 - switch is in the lock mechanism, part isn't expensive but its a big job, door needs stripping down.

3 - try putting a desiccant gel sachet in there, strange that a replacement should also do it, the seals can go weak but not if its done it twice.

4 - try programming it, information in the Wiki or a search of old posts

5 - clips can be renewed, male portion clips to the door card and is easy to source, female part sits in the door and are generally only available new because they're difficult to remove

#4 User is offline   happy-kat 

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Posted 30 December 2012 - 06:11 PM

Hi
1 - there should be a self test at 15mph every cold start, you would hear it?
3 - there is a drain vent pipe that attaches to the headlamp unit, is this on?
searching is fruitful | I'm a sponge not a mechanic | please do try that if stuck with a Puma problem whilst waiting for a reply | For the Puma fan this read 'The Inside Story Book' is very nice to own sometimes still seen for sale

#5 User is offline   eldoodarino 

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Posted 30 December 2012 - 10:16 PM

Iv'e seen this done before with the ABS, poor show :nono:

havn't worked on this one... nearest number is 112..lol

would be happy to sort the clocks and ABS and other niggles if you fancy a trip up here... could work out far cheaper <_<

Chris
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#6 User is offline   melinamotor 

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Posted 31 December 2012 - 03:13 PM

I can look at any door trim issues if you can get to Basingstoke.

As HK said there should be a drain hose on the back of the headlight, Puma headlights can suffer from a little condensation at times but what your describing is more severe.

This post has been edited by melinamotor: 31 December 2012 - 03:19 PM

Ex Melina 1.7,ex FRP441,ex Silver 1.7
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BMW M3. www.tremonagarage.com

#7 User is offline   Polypedates 

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Posted 05 January 2013 - 05:07 PM

Thanks for all the replies peeps. Everyone is very friendly here so I'm liking this forum already!

Will check out Tremona if they are highly regarded in these circles as it shall need a service soon and a new cambelt is overdue but my Accord Type R has started playing up this Christmas (after 12 years and 100k miles of ownership so churlish to complain really) but I have been distracted with that as a consequence.

Re. the FRP, I removed the new headlight and dried it out again on the Aga and it seems to be OK now. Still mists up a bit but clears itself although odd that the new one is more prone to this than the older unit on the other side. As it is new it has the drain pipe on it although to be fair so did the previous one. It is the drivers side light that is missing it so might switch the spare hose I now have to that one although I can't see a clip on the rear of the front bulkhead for it to secure to.

Yesterday afternoon I removed the driver's door card to try and sort the rattle. In the end it wasn't the clips although a couple are damaged so I'll replace those. I discovered the plastic weatherstrip along the top of the card was no longer fully secured along the rearward part so glued it back and although that seems to have alleviated the rattle it is not yet cured. That said it sounds like metal vibrating now so maybe a look at the window mechanism is in order (it only rattles with the window fully up - so this sounds a credible source for the noise). I didn't do that yesterday as there is quite a thick water seal underneath the door card and I didn't want to remove it unnecessarily if I could help it. I also had another look at the door light switch and a bit of multi-metering indicates it is not a bad earth so suggests a wiring fault somewhere I guess - I hate wiring faults Posted Image/>

In other news I also played around with the headlight angle as they were only illuminating about 6ft beyond the bonnet on dipped but I need a 7mm hex for that and typically mine go from 6mm to 8mm Posted Image/> I did try wrapping the 6mm in tape but it was a bit touch and go and the nylon adjusters are quite soft so do not want to risk stripping them by using the wrong tool. As such although the lights are a bit better they still need lifting up more if I'm to make the most of the Halfords Brilliance bulbs I have fitted in an attempt to actually see where I'm going...

The ABS is above my pay grade so not sure where to start with that. Do you have a business in Nottingham Chris as although it is a long way from here I may decide to come up if it offers a decent opportunity to get it sorted? I suppose I could get Tremona to look at it but I'm worried that it could end up costing £££ just to diagnose the fault. let alone sort it out. It maybe nothing of course but if the bulb has been removed (as seems likely) then I can't see why someone would go to all that trouble if it is something straightforward like a ropey wheel sensor? I can also drop by Basingstoke very easily if you think we can fix the door rattle Melinamotor since my daily commute takes me around the ring road twice a day anyway (if you see one it is probably me). Actually, is there a local meet for these parts?

Oh yeah, and finally does the FRP have a boot light? Mine doesn't and it seems an odd item for Ford to have deleted over the standard Puma.

Cheers folks.

This post has been edited by Polypedates: 05 January 2013 - 05:10 PM

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#8 User is offline   happy-kat 

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Posted 05 January 2013 - 06:51 PM

Hi
1 - headlight the early Puma headlight did not have a drain vent fitted so maybe the preious owner fitted a replacement old light.

2 - please take a read of my thread re door rattle might be of help.
http://www.pumapeopl...ndpost&p=921411

4 - boot light
Posted Image
searching is fruitful | I'm a sponge not a mechanic | please do try that if stuck with a Puma problem whilst waiting for a reply | For the Puma fan this read 'The Inside Story Book' is very nice to own sometimes still seen for sale

#9 User is offline   melinamotor 

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Posted 06 January 2013 - 09:17 PM

Glad to hear you are making progress, I had 441 out today on the ring road :)/>. PM me anytime mate, especially if your local to Basingstoke.I had a Type R thing going some years back, couldnt afford to run one now though with todays fuel prices :)

This post has been edited by melinamotor: 06 January 2013 - 09:18 PM

Ex Melina 1.7,ex FRP441,ex Silver 1.7
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#10 User is offline   Polypedates 

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Posted 14 January 2013 - 06:27 PM

Thanks for the replies and PM's.

I did a bit more fettling on Friday. Seem to have sorted the terrible rattling from the doors now - the plastic runners that secure the door cards to the top of the door had come adrift allowing the cards to clap against the door frame. Now properly glued on again whilst some fresh silicone grease on the mating faces has banished most of the minor zings and buzzes too. Car feels so much more solid now. I also adjusted the headlights so that is sorted - they are actually OK when angled correctly (albeit with Halfords uprated bulbs). Unfortunately the new headlight has started to mist up again though :rant:/>

Definitely no sign of any boot light but I need to remove the lining to be sure.

It was very sure footed in the snow this morning with its winter tyres, I thought it might be a bit twitchy but it was fine and didn't slip or break traction once. The brakes are nice and progressive too so easy to modulate although having tyres that find traction on snow means you can afford to rely on the brakes being there if you want them. The snow also seemed to iron out the road imperfections so the RPJ suspension got a break too!
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#11 User is offline   happy-kat 

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Posted 15 January 2013 - 09:13 PM

Which winter tyres have you fitted please?
searching is fruitful | I'm a sponge not a mechanic | please do try that if stuck with a Puma problem whilst waiting for a reply | For the Puma fan this read 'The Inside Story Book' is very nice to own sometimes still seen for sale

#12 User is offline   Polypedates 

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Posted 18 January 2013 - 12:53 PM

I have Nexens on the Puma. They are OK but not as good as the Pirelli Snowcontrols I used on my Panda 100HP but the Pirellis were not available (only Sotto Zeroes at £250 a corner Posted Image/>). The Nexens were about £70 each and had bettter reviews than the Vredestiens I could have got in that price bracket so went with them even though I'd never heard of Nexen. That said they do the business - I just got home from work in Tadley north of Basingstoke so 40 miles through the snow. Only took me 1:20 so considering it usually takes 1 hour that is pretty good. Delays were down to getting stuck behind 4wds and other cars; once they were dispatched I could cruise at 40-50mph no problem. The run from Basingstoke down to Alton and on to the A3 via Selborne was beautiful. Then snow covered minor lanes to my home in rural Hampshire. Never missed the ABS or TC either.

If the UK mandated winter tyres like the rest of Northern Europe then the country wouldn't go to pot every time it snowed Posted Image/>

This post has been edited by Polypedates: 18 January 2013 - 12:55 PM

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#13 User is offline   happy-kat 

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Posted 18 January 2013 - 06:50 PM

I agree with the winter tyres comment, we very nearly got a set for the main car but that will mean keeping an eye out for a spare set of rims, which I may do now even if don't get hold of them before next winter.
searching is fruitful | I'm a sponge not a mechanic | please do try that if stuck with a Puma problem whilst waiting for a reply | For the Puma fan this read 'The Inside Story Book' is very nice to own sometimes still seen for sale

#14 User is offline   Polypedates 

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Posted 25 January 2013 - 06:25 PM

More tinkerage to report. The centre heatshield got ripped off by a piece of debris in the road on Monday - probably a lump of ice. It was obviously not on right to begin with as it shouldn't be hanging under the car. Anyway, by the time I'd got home again it had been folded back on itself and totally mangled. For the last couple of miles on the minor lanes it was dragging along the road although the snow still piled in the centre of the road didn't help in that regard. Anyway, I went to my parents as that is where my tools currently reside, ramped the car and pulled it out. As luck would have it I already had a new one but couldn't get it on without dropping the exhaust. As it was 10pm by this point and frickin' cold I decided to leave it for another time. That time came today so a mate and I dropped the exhaust and fitted the new heatshield with new fasteners. I had to straighten a couple of the studs but sorted now. Gave them a good blob of brush on under-seal to protect the studs and prevent the new fasteners working use whilst I was at it. Whilst doing that we also removed the stainless backbox and tweaked some of the hangars as the exhaust had been badly fitted and so the tail pipe was slightly crooked and wedged up against one side of the rear bumper cut out. It had always rattled terribly as a result so I'd made do with a self adhesive rubber pad twixt it and bumper up until now. After a bit of adjustment it now hangs level and in the centre of the cut out Posted Image/>

I'd also bought some minor interior trim bits so fitted those (covers for screws on door cards, retainer clip for cubbyhole behind handbrake - that sort of thing) so that was good. The screws holding the headlights in place were blobs of corrosion so cleaned them up and zinc plated them nice and silver-grey in an OEM stylee! Also got new wipers which helps visibility no end.

Unfortunately the car has now also developed a terrible speed sensitive rumbling noise from the back which I think might be a wheel bearing. Are they easy to replace, e.g. simple tapered push in jobs or are they square, take hub off and use a press types? I do have a 10t press so can manage either but depends if I can be bothered Posted Image/> .

Still no progress on the ABS/TC issue. Can someone tell me what the engine bay fuse box layout and amperages ought to be as I seem to have quite a few empty spaces in there so wondering if the relevant fuses have been removed?

In the meantime I'm hoping this milder weather that is being reported manifests itself so I can give the car a wash. It hasn't been washed for two weeks now and given the conditions and the FRP's propensity to pick up grime from the wheels sticking out relative to the body it is unutterable filthy at the moment. At least the cold weather means the headlight has managed to clear itself again though.

Cheers

This post has been edited by Polypedates: 25 January 2013 - 06:27 PM

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#15 User is offline   eldoodarino 

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Posted 25 January 2013 - 08:09 PM

the rear bearings can be very tight..sometimes my 10ton press doesn't budge them :unsure:

i have to heat the hub up hot and pump the press handle like an idiot to get it to pop..lol

A lot of garages just buy a new hub to get the job done, but on the FRP you need the end machining to accomodate the ABS tone wheel... ideally, you need to replace the ABS ring too...

Rgds

Chris
Wizards Of Nos 60hp progressive delivery.... yeah baby yeah :-o
Denso Iridium Plugs
Helix Clutch
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#16 User is offline   Polypedates 

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Posted 26 January 2013 - 10:34 AM

View Posteldoodarino, on 25 January 2013 - 08:09 PM, said:

the rear bearings can be very tight..sometimes my 10ton press doesn't budge them Posted Image

i have to heat the hub up hot and pump the press handle like an idiot to get it to pop..lol

A lot of garages just buy a new hub to get the job done, but on the FRP you need the end machining to accomodate the ABS tone wheel... ideally, you need to replace the ABS ring too...

Rgds

Chris


OK so I can get a bearing from Pumabuild although they also do complete hubs although from what you are saying that shall be more trouble than it is worth. If I just try and replace the bearing will I need the abs tone wheel too as that is not listed and tbh I don't even know what a tone wheel is? Posted Image They do list the rear abs sensors but I'm guessing this is not the same thing. Do you reckon its a diy job or would I be better off getting a garage to do it as i need the car to get to work so can't have it off the road for days?

Thanks
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#17 User is offline   eldoodarino 

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Posted 26 January 2013 - 11:04 AM

I could send you a complete hub assembly with new bearing and tone wheel fitted if that helps and you send me yours... that would be the easiest route by far.. ;)/>

Or you could take a drive up here and i'll look over a bit more whilst your here..

Regards
Chris

plenty of garages would be able to replace the bearing, it's whether the abs works afterwards tho...most places won't have th ring in stock or know what the part number is..
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#18 User is offline   Eroom 

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Posted 26 January 2013 - 06:37 PM

View PostPolypedates, on 26 January 2013 - 10:34 AM, said:

OK so I can get a bearing from Pumabuild although they also do complete hubs although from what you are saying that shall be more trouble than it is worth. If I just try and replace the bearing will I need the abs tone wheel too as that is not listed and tbh I don't even know what a tone wheel is? Posted Image They do list the rear abs sensors but I'm guessing this is not the same thing. Do you reckon its a diy job or would I be better off getting a garage to do it as i need the car to get to work so can't have it off the road for days?

Thanks

The bearings are possible to knock out, I've done it a few times but I've got a piece of brass the exact size that sit on the bearings but you really have to hit them hard as mentioned they are very tight.
The last few times I've took them into work and used my hydraulic press, it's a lot easier.
If your careful you can remove the tone rings without damaging them and reuse them. Mine have been off three times now and back on. Good luck :)/>
FRP279 sold October 2013

#19 User is offline   happy-kat 

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Posted 26 January 2013 - 06:40 PM

The tone wheel/speed sensor is the same as fitted to the Puma. So even though it is a Focus based assembly the tone wheel is Puma.
searching is fruitful | I'm a sponge not a mechanic | please do try that if stuck with a Puma problem whilst waiting for a reply | For the Puma fan this read 'The Inside Story Book' is very nice to own sometimes still seen for sale

#20 User is offline   Polypedates 

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Posted 01 February 2013 - 06:18 PM

OK, this car is becoming something of liability. The rear n/s caliper is siezed as the upper slider on the carrier is bent (wtf?!) I need a new carrier but no where sells the carriers and Ford are clueless. Does anyone know what part no. I need from Ford for something that fits - the rear brakes must be a standard set-up shared with another model, right?

I also determined that the o/s rear wheel bearing is probably knackered. I wanted to confirm the hub nut was on tight but the hub nut arrangement is strange so not sure how it comes off - there are two hex disks over the nut held by a petal arrangement of locking tabs but these can't be bent back to allow a socket on the hub nut. Anybody know how this works?

Also, what is with the front top mounts? They stand proud of the top of the turret so when the struts are unloaded (ie when the front is jacked) they drop 2cms or so meaning the entire strut has an equivalent amount of free vertical movement.

Sorry for all the questions but this car needs some serious work.

Thanks
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