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Frp To Rally Car Rate Topic: ***** 1 Votes

#21 User is offline   philalix 

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Posted 29 March 2010 - 09:22 PM

how much would it cost to have the plans and measurment for the roll cage ?

thanks ?
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#22 User is offline   volcomstone411 

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Posted 30 March 2010 - 04:29 PM

View Postphilalix, on 29 March 2010 - 09:22 PM, said:

how much would it cost to have the plans and measurment for the roll cage ?

thanks ?


ill speak to the creator...he might make you all the bars ready for installation cut and lengthened all correctly if i speak to him. Ill ask him how much he would want to supply all the kit and stuff.
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#23 User is offline   tracingspirals 

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Posted 30 March 2010 - 05:54 PM

Wow!
thats a really big job and I'm so looking forward to how this comes about.

I've got big Plans for my Puma too, something along the lines of a track/rally car.
Sticking a 2.0l cosworth Duratec engine in it and all.

I've gotta follow up on your project to see how it goes and get inspiration on how to go about turning my little Kat into a track/gravel monster!

#24 User is offline   volcomstone411 

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Posted 31 March 2010 - 04:31 PM

View Posttracingspirals, on 30 March 2010 - 05:54 PM, said:

Wow!
thats a really big job and I'm so looking forward to how this comes about.

I've got big Plans for my Puma too, something along the lines of a track/rally car.
Sticking a 2.0l cosworth Duratec engine in it and all.

I've gotta follow up on your project to see how it goes and get inspiration on how to go about turning my little Kat into a track/gravel monster!


we are happy to make shells of these with the s1600 bodykit and full roll cage all painted ready for insertion of other pieces. Going to be in the region for £4000 - £5000
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#25 User is offline   warrenpenalver 

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Posted 01 April 2010 - 05:31 PM

you should be able to cut out of the shell just as much metal as the cage has put in if not more.

ive seen a lot of track cars where they gusset the A and B pillars to support the original structure of the car as soo much metal has been cut out that the roof etc would flex other wise. not really a problem as your cage is the strength of the car. Id imagine you could take off the side mouldings and entire ABC pillars and roof and drive it round still quite strong. Interestingly, some works rally cars were built like that, from a shell stripped down to floor pan then rebuilt around cage.

from a mk3 escort:
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From an EsCOS rally car:
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you should be able to hack maim and slay tons of the shell!!

This post has been edited by warrenpenalver: 02 April 2010 - 05:08 AM

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#26 User is offline   Dave2302 

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Posted 01 April 2010 - 08:25 PM

Hi there,

Nice work

I've been following Warrens for a while now, will be watching this one too lol.

Will be getting the plasma cutter fired up soon as I'm gonna build a 4x4 24V V6 Cosworth Turbo Version in the very near future.

Cheers for now, Dave
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#27 User is offline   volcomstone411 

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Posted 01 April 2010 - 09:53 PM

yea i wont be able to cut the shell around the cage. I'm not going to enter any competitive series but would like to do a few rallies. And to keep the car legal its a good idea to keep as standard as possible. It will still be competitive. There are so many rally teams out there who don't even set cars up properly. I am fortunate to no some very good vehicle engineers who setup winning rally cars on a daily basis. They don't always agree but i can put into practice what they know and hopefully build a competitive car.

Before my accident i had the car setup so sweatly. Far better than FRP standard. The bumpsteer was adressed...had all new dampers on the car, COG was lowered. Toe in the rear. For me it was spot on...it was happy to kick the tail out and really keep the nose tight to apexes and still bring it back in control no problems.

I'm technically breaking the rules by changing the top mounts, but the height and location are the same, but with discretion should still pass through scrutineering.

A couple of weekends back a chap in a standard, except for safety gear, astra GSI without an LSD came 12th overall in Epynt.

I hope to keep the weight down in other areas. A lot of weight came out the car when it was stripped. The frp front seats weigh quite a bit. carpets, trims and heaters weigh a bit too. Hopefully will be OK.

The puma shell is quite alight shell anyway. If you take a panel off inside the car that is very strong, when you take it off and weigh it its shockingly light. Only the front legs are the really heavy bits.
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#28 User is offline   warrenpenalver 

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Posted 02 April 2010 - 05:08 AM

theres still a load of non structural brackets you can cut off the shell which should save a bit of weight.

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This post has been edited by warrenpenalver: 02 April 2010 - 05:09 AM

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#29 User is offline   volcomstone411 

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Posted 05 April 2010 - 01:45 PM

View Postwarrenpenalver, on 02 April 2010 - 05:08 AM, said:

theres still a load of non structural brackets you can cut off the shell which should save a bit of weight.


yea, been having a flick through homologation papers too. Ive got most of them away...there are a few others places i can get rid of some bits too ;)
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#30 User is offline   volcomstone411 

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Posted 05 April 2010 - 01:52 PM

Just a small update, the cage is nearly complete now.

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I've been lining the seat up, because i'm tall its as low as it can go and as far back as it can go, butted up against the rear seat floor. It's ideal cos its the best location for centre of car weight distribution and there is plenty of room for my head with a helmet on. The steering column needs to be lowered a little, but steering wheel sits nicely infront of me.

Also started stripping the engine down. Going to get new bottom end bolts so i can rev the engine a little more. Also chance to check the clutch and gearbox and bits etc etc. Got a new slave cylinder for the hydraulic clutch because i've had them go before, so "might as well whilst i'm there".

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Also can rid the A/C pump to save a bit of weight, so i've had to order new belt thats shorter and re-route the belt to allow all the pumps to turn the right way.

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#31 User is offline   Cat Woman 

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Posted 05 April 2010 - 03:29 PM

Why turn an FRP into a rally car though? surely cheaper to buy the odd bits you need? or had your FRP had a shunt?

#32 User is offline   warrenpenalver 

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Posted 05 April 2010 - 04:22 PM

You fitting the A pillar to door bar reinforcement bar??

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my old car had a custom cages cage, although not so well welded as yours!!
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#33 User is offline   volcomstone411 

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Posted 05 April 2010 - 06:26 PM

Yea. We gana wait til im sat in the car to line up cos its very tight. I decided to use frp cos most the bits on it are good for rallying. Like calipers wide track etc

warren i dont think those a piller bars should be there. According to my designs those bars should go from the top of the door bar joints at the b piller to the roofbars. Maybe custom cages design has changed

This post has been edited by volcomstone411: 05 April 2010 - 09:43 PM

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#34 User is offline   volcomstone411 

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Posted 12 April 2010 - 08:00 PM

Cage and top mounts are now complete. Cost me 9 days at £150 a day to complete. I am very happy with the work. The strength is unbelievable, and the weight isnt too bad either considering cage is CDS not T5. The top mounts have given me roughly an inch more travel which is ideal. Also spent saturday up at sweet lamb testing with a mate, was very good fun. My first time on gravel and loved it. Let me drive his car also. But i'm a little clearer on dampers too...its defo i want reiger dampers now, they are phenominaly good.

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#35 User is offline   warrenpenalver 

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Posted 12 April 2010 - 08:26 PM

looking good!! I guess they must have deleted the A pillar supports!!
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#36 User is offline   FlashBastd 

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Posted 12 April 2010 - 08:35 PM

I thought you were doing this to a FRP, so how come it has an R plate on it? Also looks to have standard rear arches?

Making great progress though!
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#37 User is offline   volcomstone411 

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Posted 12 April 2010 - 08:54 PM

yea, ill put the frp wings and qtrs, engine and brakes onto this shell. I wanted to work on a shell, so swap over would be minimal. Didn't fancy ripping apart my frp shell. And my frp shell has had 2 write offs against its plate, this one is clean.

The a-piller supports may go in, i need to ring custom cages tommorow, there is also a bar that may have to go in on the corner of the b piller and roof. I need to check i can get certificate as is if possible, cos i can't get in and out the car being tall.
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#38 User is offline   warrenpenalver 

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Posted 12 April 2010 - 09:07 PM

youve just got to be a contortionist!!

Theres a knack to get in with a full cage. You just got to work it out. ;)
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#39 User is offline   volcomstone411 

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Posted 12 April 2010 - 10:01 PM

LOL

wait til you see it at the shows, impossible LOL

Ive had to move the steering wheel right low and longer so my legs are right etc, its nothing like a standard car, almost like a touring car. Getting in from the passenger side looks teh most likely LOL

But still...if there is a rally car to get into, ill find a way hehe
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#40 User is offline   warrenpenalver 

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Posted 13 April 2010 - 12:25 AM

removable steering wheel!!!

Try the technique you see the american old nascar drivers used to use with welded doors :roflmao:The A pillar brace is a good hand hold!!
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