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Pumapeople Wiki Is Down

#1 User is offline   davidpartridge 

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Posted 24 June 2018 - 11:09 AM

Couldn't find anywhere to notify an admin, so posting here that the Wiki is borked.

Dave

#2 User is offline   happy-kat 

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Posted 24 June 2018 - 12:30 PM

Thanks. I'll take a look when on the PC.
searching is fruitful | I'm a sponge not a mechanic | The Wiki is cool, please do check there if stuck with a Puma problem whilst waiting for a reply | For the Puma fan this read 'The Inside Story Book' is very nice to own link coming soon

#3 User is offline   davidpartridge 

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Posted 25 June 2018 - 11:53 AM

View Posthappy-kat, on 24 June 2018 - 12:30 PM, said:

Thanks. I'll take a look when on the PC.


Still not working I fear.

D,

#4 User is offline   lawndart 

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Posted 19 August 2018 - 10:33 AM

Any update on fixing the Wiki? I need the "Water, water everywhere!" section. It's a good job the summer has been dry so far...

#5 User is offline   happy-kat 

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Posted 19 August 2018 - 01:15 PM

The Wiki is safe but it's not mixing very well with the recent site update.
searching is fruitful | I'm a sponge not a mechanic | The Wiki is cool, please do check there if stuck with a Puma problem whilst waiting for a reply | For the Puma fan this read 'The Inside Story Book' is very nice to own link coming soon

#6 User is offline   happy-kat 

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Posted 25 August 2018 - 05:58 PM

This is not the most recent text but it is an older version of the water water everywhere stuff.

kindly posted by Pumapeople member Ice White Socks on December 10th 2007
Woke up a few days ago to a pretty damp drivers footwell (though not a puddle). I had a search through the topics and have been out to check seals/ grommits etc.
This kind of water ingress is a big problem on VW's- and always for a reason that I haven't seen talked about on PP yet. Most cars have a 'wet-door' arrangement whereby the door seals only keep the worst of the water out- any water seeping past the seals just drops through the door and comes out through the holes at the bottom. The doors have a waterproof membrane between the door and the door card to stop this water coming into the interior.
If the membrane is damaged or removed and not resealed etc- then the water can drip into the back of the door and runs into the interior- it conveniently comes out just above the main door seals.
Have just had the door card off- the membrane is flapping around all over the place- this makes sense because I have seen little puddles on the carpet next to the main sill/ door seal before. I'm pretty sure that resealing the membrane with sealer will sort the problem out (a following post confirmed that it did).

kindly posted by Pumapeople member Clawz on April 26th 2008
I still had a wet footwell (passengers side, LHD so the RIGHT side of the car). The sun was shining today, so i started my search.
I cut away most of the isolation on the inside of the footwell, allowing me to locate the entry point and easily spot water leaking in. It turned out water was entering the car somewhere near the A pillar / wheelhousing, at the top of the dashboard.
I started hosing down parts under the bonnet, and ended up near the far left of the engine bay, underneath the coolant tank. I removed the tank, and found the following: (clickable images)
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Both holes were clogged with dirt, and a bit of water kept standing there. After cleaning the lot, water was still entering the car. I've sprayed the rest of that area, removed the wheel and archlining, sprayed everywhere except that seam, but no water entering. So, bad seal!?

Sealed the seam with black roof sealant (stays flexible), pushed it into the seam with an icecream stick, and covered the lot with masking tape to prevent sticking in it while remounting the parts. Gave it 15 minutes to dry, and started hosing down the area around it (and the seal itself) with a garden hose. After 5 minutes there was still no water leaking in, so i assume it's fixed.
Inside picture, I don't have one with all the isolation removed; i've ducttaped most of it back together. This is a picture of the current state.

I removed the black box (2 connectors, 3 nuts), cut away all the isolation i could easily reach behind it (you can see a piece of ducttape
I could then see the drops of water just trickle down the wheelarch / corner of the footwell. If i stuck my arm up behind the dashboard i could feel the water all the way up there, so it had to be a pretty high point of entry.

Kindly posted by Pumapeople member NLTUK on 23rd April 2008
Water In Driver Side Footwell/floor Pan

Basically (and I know it's hard to orientate yourselves here) it's coming in (looking under the bonnet) bottom left corner of the scuttle , just behind the washer filler cap through a tiny hole in the bulkhead seal.


Looking from inside the car it's right in the very corner where the wheel arch meets the bulkhead.
Taking advice from Mrpike I cleaned it all, dried it and sealed from above. Fingers crossed that the sealent dries before we have rain.
Unfortunatly I had to rip out most of the foam soundproofing stiff as it was rotton (this also needs to come off to see the leak) and the green soft matting stuff. That had to come off right of to the joist under the drivers seat. I thouroughly dried the floor pan. (thankfully the carpet was totally dry as the green padding stuff sucked in the water.

People member {b]mrpike[/b] added to the above thread
My only advice on this is take out your seats and carpets, dry all tha floor wait till it rains or spray water on the car working your way up from the bottom and keep checking inside as you go. By working from the bottom up you'll find the spot where it comes in. You must take your time over this because you'll miss it, because the water does not run in, it dribbles in after it built up. I know because read the threads in Wiki, mines there. Or if you don't cure the water leaks, it will cause lots of rot because it will flow forwards and backwards as you drive, finding it way into your inner sills.

Kindly posted by Pumapeople member Andy Puma on 3rd February 2008
Driver footwell leak
Well guys, went to take some pics today for you of the footwell leak and discovered that my sister had nicked my camera without asking as shes gone on holiday (thanks!).
Ne way, I had to put carpet back today as dont get much free time and it was dry and ready, so I have taken a pic from google and tried to show the general area where the leak came in! Hope this is ok and helps some of you.
To find the leak:
* pull back drivers carpet
* remove underlay type stuff
* cut the sound proofing layer so that you can see well up into the footwell- where the pedals come in



PLEASE NOTE- the water was not coming in through a gromit (as shown in pic)
Then you have to get some numprty/ volunteer to sit in the car, while you shower it with the hose (in corner of windscreen and down into scuttle) so they can see where the leak is coming in.
I found mine was pouring in through a tiny pin-head sized hole where the sealer had cracked slighly. The general location shown on the diagram.
Oh by the way, before putting the carpets back make sure they are totally dry otherwise they get the floor damp again!

Kindly posted by Pumapoeple member Toffee on 12th February 2008
Another thing to check for the wet drivers footwell is the windscreen seal underneath the scuttle panel - I had the same problem when I first got my Puma and gave up on it after a few months. After getting a chip in the windscreen and having it replaced all was fine. Kind of hard to check for though

Kindly posted by Pumapoeple member lastyboy on 7th December 2007
Hi i have a 1998 R Ford Puma 1.7 16v.
I had the dreaded water leaks . The passenger footwell was soaked and the drivers one a littlbe bit damp.
The procedure as follows was:
1. First i took out the scuttle panel and gained access to the bulkhead. Sealed the hole to for the wiring.
2. Removed the fusebox and cleaned out all the mud underneath.
3. Checked the air-con drain tube, which wasnt blocked.
4. Went in behind the front wing and the wheel arch liner. Plenty of mud under there but still not the problem.
5. Finally found the gromets in each sill near the front corners of the floorpan. Both sides were leaking. Sealed the gromits and no problem.


Kindly posted by Pumapeople member dianamoonglampers on 18th December 2007
wet footwells
in order of complexity to fix.
1. air con drain, clogged black pipe under the dash,
2. leaky windscreen seal
3. grommits behind the fuse box (in engine bay) are leaking.
4. seal on the pollen box is letting water in (in engine bay).
5. grommit of side indicator light leaking (behind wheel trim).
6. body seal gone probably under the fuse box where lots of dirt collects because the drain has clogged.


Kindly posted by Pumapeople member pnazaret on 20th December 2007
wet footwells
Below are some know areas of concern on the Puma which I hope helps.
1. Water entry at the brake servo bracket on the bulkhead. Water can enter the passenger compartment if the sealing washers are worn, damaged, have slipped or are missing. Align or install new sealing washers as necessary.
2. Ingress of water into bulkhead area. Unfortunately It may be necessary to remove the facia crash padding in order to locate the water entry point in the bulkhead area.
3. Water entry - heater to bulkhead .
4. Water entry - pollen filter to bulkhead.
5. Water entry at the wiring harness grommet on the bulkhead. Note excess sealant can prevent a grommet sealing properly.
6. Water entry - front wheelhousing . A faulty seal at the bodywork joints below the reinforcing panel may allow water entry in the area of the side trim panel and bulkhead.
7. Water entry - joint between cowl top panel, bulkhead and A-pillar. Water can enter in the area of the joint between the cowl top panel, bulkhead and A - pillar because of an excessive gap between the components.


Kindly posted by Pumapeople member mrpike on 14th April 2008
wet footwells
1. Removed the pollen filter box, scuttle plate, disconected battery and fused box this can be pulled up quite away and tied to that black box underneath the bonnet, this is where most of the water gets in, so you need to gain access to them and clean away all the muck that collects there.
2. As I said, I've tried all the usual methods to seal the grometts without any success. As I used to be a boat builder I complety laid down a bed of fibreglass resin and mat around the grometts and built upstands around the grometts. What this does it will not allow the water to find its way between the grometts and the bodywork. The upstands act as deflectors send the water away from the grometts and out through the bodywork drain holes. Believe me this method works.
3. The leaks around the pipes going into the top of the heater matrix were sealed with Halfords black silicon mastic. The key to sealing is make sure you really clean away any crap thats there.
4. Broken off body work stud find a longer bolt, fit tap washer on it, apply good coat of silicon mastic, fit it inside the hole and bolt your module bracket down.

The reason why this method works so well is because you are sealing the leaks from above, which means the water runs over the fibreglass and cannot get through it. If you try and seal it from inside the car, even with the dash removed there is no room to seal effectivley, also you are trying to seal from under a leak which the water will travel along it and come in further along. You would not cure a leaking roof from underneath, you would allways work above the leak. Sorry to go on a bit, but I'm really proud on my achievement, cause it took me long enough to cure this problem.
Kindly posted by Pumapeople member mrpike May 2nd 2008
on sealing the seam
Don't use silicon as it really doesn't stick to metalwork it seams to only sick to its self and you. I fixed mine with fibreglass resin and mat, this works best if your covering a larger area. The next best thing if its a seam leak is windscreen mastic its black and has to be warmed up before use as it is quite hard when cold. You need a bit of cheek find a windscreen repair centre near you and explain your situation and ask how much to buy a tube, I paid £5.00 up here. You may have to buy a tube type mastic gun because they usually come in a bag form, like the tubes of dog food. These guns can be obtained from builders merchants I got mine from Lidl for £2.99. Make sure you dry the seam I used a hairdryer to make sure its completly dry and it also warms up the bodywork as well. Put a bead of mastic in the seam then press it in further with a lolly pop stick. Keep it off you hands because it will take ages to clean it off. It normally sets off in about an half an hour

if the above fails to fix the leak then it might be this, kindly posted by Pumapeople member [Wonkey]2nd June 2008

I'd posted a few times on here about water getting into my passenger footwell. Looked in the wiki, followed the advice of many people and still my car had it's own paddling pool! Finally, I gave in, out with the dashboard
Strip most of your car onto the garage floor


Haynes manual was quite helpful here, apart from the normal mistakes and the lack of comments on how to remove tricky clips. Speedo cable clip in particular.
Get your head in there so you can have a good look!


That's the culprit, a 1" crack in the seal between the panels!


That rubber seal is one of the two behind the fusebox when looking from above.
I used as big a silicon blob as I could get to stick in place and, fingers crossed, no leaks for the last 6 months or so. As far as I could tell, that particular spot is pretty much inaccessible from the engine bay - unless you've got no engine in there that is!
It's taken me a while to get around to posting this, but hopefully it will help someone else with an incurable leak.

Kindly posted by Pumapeople member big g July 2007
Sealing the pollen filter box, passenger side footwell leak
as some of you might know ive been having trouble with water ingress ive tracked it down to the pollen filter box
here is a guide on how to sort the problem out
first thing to do is assmble the tools you will need

i used the following tools
a 3/8 inch ratchet handle
3/8 extension bar
1/4 inch ratchet handle
1/4 inch extension bar
a selction of cross head and torx bits
1/4 bit adapter
3/8 inch cross head bit
8 mm socket
a container to put all the screws and bits in
some sealent ie silicone ( i used clear silicone }
some paper towels



step 1 is to disconnect the battery
( when disconnecting the battery you will lose your radio code make sure you have it for when you recode your headunit )
to do this use a 10mm socket and disconnect the positive side and cover the terminal

step 2
locate the pollen filter box
on rhd cars it is located behind the main fuse box in the passenger side engine bay
and on lhd on the oposite side


step 3
is to remove the pollen filter

step 4
is to undo and move the fuse box to gain better access
undo the 3 screws along the bottom of the fire wall staring closest to the fuse box ( the fire wall should be loose and eay to move.
and the screw at the top of the fuse box remove


remove the fuse box lid and place to one side

now unclip the lower wiring loom from the fuse box


unclip the four multi plugs from the fuse box and move out of the way


now lift the firewall behind the edge of the fuse box

now you should be able to pull the fuse box to the left and out of the way
( be careful not to pull to hard as the loom is still attached )

step 5
now we can attack the pollen filter box itself
there are four cross head screws holding on the top of the pollen filter box ( two each side)
unscrew the front two first


undo the two 8 mm retaining bolts at the front of the filter box


the filter box should come away from the car now.
now this is where it gets a bit tricky
you now need to undo the two rear screws.
take your time as there is not alot of room .

once all the screws are removed and the lid taken off it should look like this.
http://www.pumapeopl...52_141802.jpgbr />
step 6
is to remove the rest of the pollen filter box from the car.
take your time as there is not alot of room to manouver it.
be careful of the wires behind the fire wall and the pipes going into the hcv ( as the plastic of the hcv can become brittle )
it should now look somthing like this


step 7
give the area from where the pollen filter box has been a good clean and dry
removning any dirt so the sealent will bond properly
now seal around the edge of the hole for the heater system.
be careful not to drop any sealent down the hole

step 8
its nearly time to put it all back together
before we start to put it all back in
inspect the seal on the bottom of the pollen filter box (clean and dry it)
as you can see mine has seen better days


step 9
refitting the pollen box
refit the bottem part of the pollen box back into the engine bay ( dont push it back into the sealent yet )
again take your time whilst doing this
refit the lid and screw it back into place.

now push the whole box firmly into the sealent
have a look inside the box to see if its seated correctly

now bolt the box back in with the 8 mm bolts

step 10
its now time to refit the fuse box
slide the box back into the guide hole in the wing
clip the bottom wiring loom back onto the fuse box
bring the fire wall back to the front of the fuse box and screw back in to the 4 screw points
( take your time whilst putting the 2 screws closest to the fuse box back in as its a tight fit)
now plug back in the 4 multi plugs to the fuse box
refit the fuse box lid and weather seal
reconnect the battery
you should now be done
Kindly posted by Pumapeople member rnh13 Feb 11 2007
Wet Drivers Footwell
The water was leaking through the door seal, at the foot of the door.
Lay down in the car and look at the bottom front corner of your door while some one poors water over the door from the outside. I could see the water building up and then running into the front footwell. (nightmare)
If this is the problem it might be time for some new door seals.

Kindly posted by Pumapeople member cooler king 4th February 2007
Wet Drivers Footwell
the seals on the bulkhead are poo basically, lets water in, this is right under the windscreen area aswell! if you do a search there should be more info on this, i first had this problem 3 years ago and posted it all up on here! i have just recently re-sealed mine with glaziers sillicone as i found it to be the best product to stop it leaking!!!! only problem is that i could only get it in teak at the time!!!!!
and commented on the same leek area in June 2006
if you get on your back slide into the footwell, getting right in to the corner of the footwell looking up and get someone to pour water into the bulkhead area at the top you should see it starting to drip, you may need to pull the carpet back slightly

Kindly from Pumapeople member Bron in 2000 who had the most leaky Puma you ever imagined and finally got Ford to buy it back it was that bad!
wet footwells
1. There is also a major fault in the centre of the panel, where the heater hoses pass through. The pipes fit into a small panel, around 20 cm by 15 cm. This panel does not sit properly, and water sits in the seals. This can leak quite badly, filling your radio with water.
2. Further to my previous message, the bolts for the gas struts might be the problem. If these are loose, like what happened to me, water runs into the holes, inside the rear quarter to the rear light cluster, down the cluster and into the boot. From the boot, under the rear seat and into the rear passengers footwell.
3. NS footwell, traced fault to 2 places. misfitted, gromit top corner,and badly fitted centre panel, (where heater hoses pass thru) footwell driverside and passangerside (more on passangerside), (ECU-kondensewaterhose blocked, but is rainwater supposed to be in the ECU, mouldy smell, moist windows
4. NS Footwell,Bulk head seal; re-sealed - same fault as a Fiesta!
5. Leaking bulkhead seal, ECU destroyed, oil contaminated with petrol, spark plugs knackered, lambda sensor knackered
6. O/S front footwell (nice pool over carpet), Dislodged grommet in floorpan
7. In all footwells front and back at 20,000 miles, Bulkhead weld not sealed correctly, Car stank like a pond
8. Through the grommet under the bonnet, n/s. (Drips on the left of passenger foot well)
9. Through the Aluminium plate in the centre where than a/c and heating pipes go through, round the edge of the plate. (drips in the centre or off to the right, sometime in the heater)
10. TSB 271999 thought the bulk head, exactly the same as the fiesta, this one usually comes up rather than 1 and two the dript

Black2 December 2009
Driver foot wellsI pulled the carpet up in the drivers footwell, removed the door seal so i could pull the carpet out from the corner and thats when i noticed a trickle of water coming down on the inside corner. So i went in the engine bay removed the header tank and noticed there are two small drain holes, I poured some water on this area and noticed it coming down on the inside as described above.
Basically the problem was right up behind the dash where Ford have "sealed" up the bulkead there was a pin prick defect in this sealent hence letting water in. I have sealed it now with some silicone so Im hoping the problem is sorted.
Quite a bitch to sort out because a) Its right up behind the dash and its surrounded by sound deadening which has to be pulled / cut out to access the area.

happy-kat May 2008
Rear foot wells if found wet could be cuased by missing bungs in the undefloor chassis (I need to find the extra detail I have somewhere on this)

Various Pumapeople members
Wet boot can be either leaking through the rubber grommit at the base of the rear wiper arm (wet boot when it rains) or the mastic seal around the rear glass, the rubber glass trim is for looks and the mastic is behind this (wet boot when it rains) or the spare wheel carrier is not done up tightly (water spray coming through)



This guide is meant for reference only, use this guide at your own risk
searching is fruitful | I'm a sponge not a mechanic | The Wiki is cool, please do check there if stuck with a Puma problem whilst waiting for a reply | For the Puma fan this read 'The Inside Story Book' is very nice to own link coming soon

#7 User is offline   lawndart 

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Posted 30 August 2018 - 08:43 AM

That will help. Thank you :)

#8 User is offline   mexicoandy 

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Posted 18 October 2018 - 09:36 AM

Any progress on the wiki repair? It may come in very handy while I strip down and restore my sons puma over the winter......

#9 User is offline   happy-kat 

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Posted 19 October 2018 - 05:45 PM

At the moment no, but if you share what you thought you might need I could help find the related posts as the wiki was built from posts made to the site.
searching is fruitful | I'm a sponge not a mechanic | The Wiki is cool, please do check there if stuck with a Puma problem whilst waiting for a reply | For the Puma fan this read 'The Inside Story Book' is very nice to own link coming soon

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