[nottadam]

Hi All
Looking for a bit of advice.
Bought FRP#8 a few weeks ago with an existing ABS fault. The seller said he'd had it on diagnostics and it was reporting no signal from nsr.
So I've been having a look to try sort it out. Now.....the rear loom is new, as are the two rear tone rings, brake discs and pads. So obviously there's been a bit of work going on there.
First thing I did was test the two sensors resistance, both reading about 1100 ohms which I believe is correct.
Then checked the offside ring, I could just get an 8 thou feeler gauge in there, assumed this OK.
Checked the near side (supposedly faulty side) I could get a 12 thou feeler gauge in there easily, so I thought this could be the problem. I made some adjustments so that this gap is a tight 4 thou all way round, thought that would be it. No, fault is still on.
Is there any way to test the signal from an abs sensor without having to build everything back up to take it for a run (for the self test to operate)?
Thanks in advance
Paul

[Ian G]

The resistance should oscillate as the wheel is rotated, can't remember the range but you have a good sensor on the other side hopefully.

Can be done jacked up, not essential its driven.

Could also try transposing the pins in the plug to see if the fault moves to the other side in order to rule out any sort of loom issue.

I'd also disconnect and re-seat the connector on the modulator in case that has gone dry, its a saddle clip which you pull upwards towards the windscreen and the connector will come away.

[nottadam]

Thanks Ian
I'll be having another go at it next weekend.

[Wild E Coyote]

I had similar situation. No faults, lamp on. Did a rolling test only to discover that FL sensor died. Changed it and lamp switched itself off, works now. Check the front sensors!
Btw, the gap between sensors and rear rings should be set at 0,6 mm (Ford recommendation)

[nottadam]

OK folks I have fixed this Turns out some numpty had fitted a standard puma rear loom and forced the passenger side sensor into somewhere it didn't want to go Which bent the sensor head (too much angle on the sensor body, it fouls on the spacer) but was not easy to spot.
It was puzzling me as they both tested same resistance so I assumed it was OK.
Hooked them up to an oscilloscope, that told me it was fooked.
Off I went to a local motor factors, thought I'd bought the correct one for the FRP but it was exactly the same as the one I had taken off
Good thing is it was only 20 quid so a bit of cable cutting and connecting I took the driver's side sensor from the old loom (it fits OK in the other side) and I now have 2 o/s sensors fitted.
Quick drive and first self test lights went off
A bit of a bodge I know but it will do till I can get a proper one, and at least I know it will be easy to change.

This post has been edited by nottadam: 22 March 2014 - 04:04 PM

[happy-kat]

Great, yes the propper one is a Puma one :-) uses the Puma speed sensor tone wheels too.

[Dave93]

The rear abs loom on the Frp is from escort estate. ( pretty sure it is)

[eldoodarino]

F1011582 is the proper part...

[nottadam]

Dave93, on 22 March 2014 - 06:10 PM, said:

The rear abs loom on the Frp is from escort estate. ( pretty sure it is)

Yeah, I don't think it's a standard puma one.
Because of the spacers, the angle on the sensor body makes it difficult to fit. It does go in but puts a lot of stress on the sensor head, which in my case stopped it working.
It looks like it needs to be straight in, with the cable in line with the sensor.

[nottadam]

eldoodarino, on 22 March 2014 - 06:54 PM, said:

F1011582 is the proper part...

Chris, how is it different from the standard Puma part?

[eldoodarino]

the standard puma part is angled so to fit on a drum system...

the FRP uses a Focus hub spindle so won't accept the standard puma sensor...

only the tone ring is the standard puma bit..

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[happy-kat]

Yes my mistake it is the tone wheel that is the same.
The part number for the loom is in the Wiki.