Induction Kit or Replacement Panel???
#1
Posted 09 April 2003 - 10:57 AM
Having looked at some previous posts, people have said that they have often noticed a loss of power lower down the rev range when fitting a full induction kit. Has anyone just fitted a replacement panel from say K&N??? If so, does it make a difference???
Thanks in advance!!!! :roll:
#2
Posted 09 April 2003 - 12:41 PM
Having looked at some previous posts, people have said that they have often noticed a loss of power lower down the rev range when fitting a full induction kit. Has anyone just fitted a replacement panel from say K&N??? If so, does it make a difference???
Thanks in advance!!!! :roll:
I've had a K&N panel in my previous 1.7 and in the FRP- no noticeable loss of torque but then again not any noticeable gain...no one mod like an air filter is going to set the tyres on fire but perhaps it is helping breathing as a part of the overall tuning package (exhaust, filter, tunable chip).
One advantage is the extended service life- don't forget to tell Ford service though or else it may get chucked to be replaced by a paper filter.
#3
Posted 09 April 2003 - 01:45 PM
I wouldn't say my K&N 57i induction kit has lowered performance. It seems to pull a little more mid-range (just right for over-taking), I like it; it is so easy to fit too. Could be a good modification for our new girl racer's to start on their Puma.
Doubt you get the roar with a filter panel whicht is part of the fun with an induction kit. :wink:
Kevin.
T5 KRH
T5 KRH
#4
Posted 09 April 2003 - 03:17 PM
I have now put the original air box with a K&N panel filter back on the puma and redirected the air feed pipe from the inner wing (which points towards the dashboard) to point towards the lower front grill. The midrange performance returned (though no noticeable power difference) and feels stronger during hard acceleration .
#5
Posted 09 April 2003 - 09:35 PM
Kevin.
T5 KRH
As mentioned before you should drill some large holes in the bottom of the airbox under the filter for a great induction noise, and its free to do.
#6 Guest_lesinge2k_*
Posted 09 April 2003 - 10:08 PM
#7
Posted 10 April 2003 - 08:35 AM
Cold Air:
Not strictly true as any decent ECU measures ambient air temperature and usually inlet air temperature as part of its normal operation cycle.
The MAF sensor basically detects how much voltage is required to heat a fine wire to a given temperature, the more the air flow the greater the current needed. As you say the colder the charge air coming in the more voltage required but this is "simply" offset by the rerading from the ambient air temp. At the end of the day the incoming air charge can't be any colder than the ambient air - unless other cooling methods are employed which would confuse the ECU.
The inlet air temp sensor (amongst others) is used by the ECU to help fuel enrichment.
Cold air is more dense than warm air on a volume for volume basis - energy is provided by mixing fuel and air... more air allows the engine to use more fuel
Power vs Torque:
Close... but not quite right... torque is the actual unit of measurement of an engines output and BHP is simple a function of torque.
BHP = (RPM * torque) / 5250
Torque = (BHP * 5250) / RPM
Therefore a F1 engine which produces 750 BHP at 18500 RPM produces 212 ft/lbs of torque... i.e. which is less than a lot of turbo diesels!
When tuning an NA (Naturally Aspriarted) engine, power is released by moving the power band further up the RPM range - on a race track this is not a problem as the driver can choose to stay "in the power band". As you stated on a road car torque is more important because the driver (unless they are being stupid) cannot choose to stay in the power band for a large percentage of the total during period. This can be monitored by recording throttle position.
HTH Turby
#8
Posted 13 April 2003 - 09:30 AM
!!!! Be VERY careful, the air feed points backwards for a reason, being low to the road you are much more likely to suck up flood / rain water if you turn it to point forward.
I have seen it done and it is very expensive.
#9
Posted 13 April 2003 - 09:36 AM
#10
Posted 20 April 2003 - 10:37 AM
Its a dynamic admission and i think that is one of the best solutions around, here in portugal people uses them allot, btw they are expensive (around 300€).
Anyone has one of this ?
#11
Posted 21 April 2003 - 11:12 AM
Steve
#12
Posted 23 April 2003 - 02:37 PM
Having looked at some previous posts, people have said that they have often noticed a loss of power lower down the rev range when fitting a full induction kit. Has anyone just fitted a replacement panel from say K&N??? If so, does it make a difference???
Thanks in advance!!!! :roll:
Hi there, I'm pretty new to this site, but I have a 99 1.7 Cat with a Pipercross Induction Kit. It creates a hell of a noise, some increse in midrange performance, but the biggest noticable change is in the fuel economy. It really drinks the stuff. However it makes the small Cat sound like a wild beast.
#13
Posted 23 April 2003 - 08:42 PM
I tried K&N 57i for about two weeks.
My Kat lost it's rasp; and became a grawling beast. Not sure if that's good or bad.
These kits seem to work better on turbo-ed cars; as more cold air = more poke.
took if off because I could not tell if it improved anything. I've still got the kit and maybe I'll put it back if persuaded. Or if my Kat looses power over time _ I'm on 52,500 miles! T-'99.
Also, My girlfriend said she could her me for miles when I dropped her off at the train station...@ 7:30 am. :twisted:
JK