[Ian G]

Can't help with the rear but the front play is probably down to the bush being compressed over time, I know from those people who have replaced with new parts the difference in size between a worn one and a brand new one is not insignificant.

[Polypedates]

Thanks Ian

Looks like the top mount design allows for some free play which is an odd set-up but front end is working well so will put that on the back burner for now. I'll order the bearing kit from Pumabuild so that shall get sorted once I understand how the rear hub nut arrangement works.

Most pressing issue is the rear caliper slider. Does the FRP share its rear brakes with the 2004-2008 Fiesta ST - it rings a bell for some reason? I really need a new carrier and my local Ford dealer shut down as soon as I mention that it is for a FRP - stock response is that they can't get anything and can't help /> I might be able to fix it with a slider kit for about £10 but the existing unit is so mangled I'm not sure I can dismantle it. Problem is that without knowing what model Fords the rear set is shared with I can't get the parts either way and for some reason the Wiki is not working with my log in details so can't check there.

Any chance anyone can answer this morning so I can order the parts ASAP?

Thanks

[happy-kat]

from Wiki
FRP rear discs and pads are the same as fitted to Focus (not ST170 / RS) 1998 - 2004 and Fiesta ST from 2004 - 2008

[Polypedates]

Thanks Happy-Kat, for some reason I can't access the Wiki />

[Polypedates]

I'm back with another stupid question - are the FRP wheel nuts the same as the std Puma? I want a new set as they are heavily corroded. The locking nuts are so bad the key is starting to slip <eek!> so thinking of getting some of these:

Locking nuts

Not the cheapest out there but look to be good quality with a proper chrome finish rather than just zinc plating (I can do that myself).

Thanks

[happy-kat]

Locking nuts are not same as standard Puma.
Very few nuts fit the FRP rims due to not having a long enough shank as the design of the rim does not allow the stud to thread deep enough in aftermarket ones.
Off top of head can not provide an alternative nut.
The wiki is case sensitive for logging in.

[happy-kat]

In that aftermarket nuts do not drop into the rim hole enough to thread enough. The frp nuts are interesting shape.

[Bentleya]

I can supply you with brand new genuine Ford Racing Puma wheel nuts, if you are interested please send me a PM.

[Polypedates]

OK so I replaced the seized carrier last week with a new one from Ford (best part of £100!). I might yet try and salvage the old one as a spare but it will probably need a soak in diesel and some heat to pull out the old sliders they are so stuck - got nowhere with the vice and brute force />

In the meantime I have a new rear wheel bearing but couldn't fit it yesterday as I do not have a 30mm impact socket and my standard 30mm socket is a 12(?) point socket rather than a true hex so just slipped />

Having removed the rear brakes I was at least able to inspect the other carrier and the rubber gaiters on this are torn so I'll need to refurbish this unit before it seizes up too. For the time being I have stripped, cleaned and re-greased it. Now both rear calipers are working properly I have re-set the handbrake for good measure and noticed the lever gaiter needs a clean. What is the recommendation for cleaning the OEM Blue Alcantara?

I reckon I might paint the rear calipers and carriers at some point before they get too corroded so what do people recommend? I could go with the Blue caliper lacquer that Foliatec do or maybe Hammerite do a blue that more closely matches the front Alcons? The alternative is OEM silver. What have others done?

In the meantime I have ordered some new wheel lock nuts from ebay (genuine FRP ones from Pumabuild in the end) and also need to order a 30mm impact socket to get this bearing done. Then its service and cam belt time.

[Polypedates]

Yay, bearing is done. Once I'd bought a proper hex shaped 30mm socket it was easy and all done in about an hour/hour and a half. I got an impact socket but actually the nut came off by hand anyway as it had not been properly torqued (only 120-150nm or so at a guess). Then the hub just slides off the spindle so no need to press the hub out of the upright like the MR2. It took 9.5t pressure to 'crack' the old bearing out but after that it was plain sailing. As my own torque wrench only goes up to 210nm I did the hub nut to that torque then tweaked it further with a breaker bar to get closer to the 235nm specified. Most awkward bit was removing the old cir-clip (note to self - must buy some better cer-clip pliers next time!).

Turns out the rumbling was the worn bearing mixed with a warped tone wheel. Some judicious tapping with a hammer and an old bearing shell got the tone wheel straight again. I didn't replace it as the ABS doesn't work anyway so figured it could wait - what does the tone wheel actually do anyway? Looks like a sensor pokes through the dust plate so I guess that 'counts' the dimples or something. There is another hole on the other side of the hub but no sensor there - should there be?

With all that racket gone I can detect a slight whine from the other side when on fast right hand sweepers so may do the other bearing next month.

I also rebuilt the sliders on the caliper so that is sorted too.

I got what are supposedly FRP locking nuts from Pumabuild but they don't really work as the tool for removing the caps is too short for the recess. I'm guessing they are just standard Puma items and PB is taking the proverbial (either that or Ford never bothered making proper FRP ones are as they are Ford items originally). Anyway, I'm going to try and get some rubber hose to extend the tool handle but if that doesn't work I'll send them back and get the ebay ones instead. I don't want to use them without the caps as I'm not convinced with the plating quality (the ebay ones had a proper chrome plate so not a concern) so hoping that spraying them with WD40 and then putting the caps on to protect them and keep the oil in there will stop them corroding away as severely as the old ones. Will let you know how I get on but for now I would suggest that anyone else looking to replace their locking nuts may wish to consider this before getting the PB items.

Ready for a service and cambelt now - I'm convinced I can hear my wallet whimpering at the prospect.

[happy-kat]

Ford did do a set of fitting locking wheel nuts for the FRP. I don't have a part number nearby.
Sounds like progress made:-)

[eldoodarino]

Polypedates, on 16 February 2013 - 10:20 AM, said:

Yay, bearing is done. Once I'd bought a proper hex shaped 30mm socket it was easy and all done in about an hour/hour and a half. I got an impact socket but actually the nut came off by hand anyway as it had not been properly torqued (only 120-150nm or so at a guess). Then the hub just slides off the spindle so no need to press the hub out of the upright like the MR2. It took 9.5t pressure to 'crack' the old bearing out but after that it was plain sailing. As my own torque wrench only goes up to 210nm I did the hub nut to that torque then tweaked it further with a breaker bar to get closer to the 235nm specified. Most awkward bit was removing the old cir-clip (note to self - must buy some better cer-clip pliers next time!).

yeah the circlips are really strong always wear goggles..

Polypedates, on 16 February 2013 - 10:20 AM, said:

Turns out the rumbling was the worn bearing mixed with a warped tone wheel. Some judicious tapping with a hammer and an old bearing shell got the tone wheel straight again. I didn't replace it as the ABS doesn't work anyway so figured it could wait - what does the tone wheel actually do anyway? Looks like a sensor pokes through the dust plate so I guess that 'counts' the dimples or something. There is another hole on the other side of the hub but no sensor there - should there be?

With all that racket gone I can detect a slight whine from the other side when on fast right hand sweepers so may do the other bearing next month.

with regards to the hole on the other side... I imagine your looking through the hole where the focus sensor would have gone...they had to machine a new hole when adapting the spindles for the FRP... either that or you don't have one for some reason in which case you'd need a new rear wiring loom.. the tolerance for distance in the rear sensor is extremely small..ideally when you change the rear bearing you need to replace the tone sensor too and make sure it JUST feathers the sensor when fitted or it will make funny noises at slow speed or just not work..lol

Polypedates, on 16 February 2013 - 10:20 AM, said:

I also rebuilt the sliders on the caliper so that is sorted too.

I got what are supposedly FRP locking nuts from Pumabuild but they don't really work as the tool for removing the caps is too short for the recess. I'm guessing they are just standard Puma items and PB is taking the proverbial (either that or Ford never bothered making proper FRP ones are as they are Ford items originally). Anyway, I'm going to try and get some rubber hose to extend the tool handle but if that doesn't work I'll send them back and get the ebay ones instead. I don't want to use them without the caps as I'm not convinced with the plating quality (the ebay ones had a proper chrome plate so not a concern) so hoping that spraying them with WD40 and then putting the caps on to protect them and keep the oil in there will stop them corroding away as severely as the old ones. Will let you know how I get on but for now I would suggest that anyone else looking to replace their locking nuts may wish to consider this before getting the PB items.

Ready for a service and cambelt now - I'm convinced I can hear my wallet whimpering at the prospect.

The plastic key for the looking wheel nut is a bit stupid as you've found out... I don't bother wth them anymore... just use a pair of long nose pliers..

You did the right thing getting the proper FRP ones..many people have the standard puma ones fitted now, and they just don't grab onto many threads at all.. the shoulder of the nut is a completely different shape...

with regards the top mounts... when they are tightened up properly (ideally with new nuts F1381995) and the car is lowered to the floor you will notice a gap between the turret and the counter weight...this is normal... and if you try to 'doctor' this to get rid of the gap as I have seen before you get bad juddering through the car

Just because there is a gap between the counterweight does not effect how securely the top mount is secured up to the turret!..

A lot of cars are having the seized back carrier issue now as you've found...iv'e replaced loads of them... including my own.. not cheap at £90 are they..

Regards

Chris

[Polypedates]

Well it has been a while as 113 has been testing my patience severely the last few weeks. I eventually bit the bullet and booked the car in to Tremona in Southampton as I figured if I was going to keep this car in the longer term I need to build up a relationship with a local(ish) specialist who knows what they are doing. So, I drove the car down to Southampton for the service and cam belt. Tremona will only do a cam belt on a stone cold engine so dropped it off the night before. Really impressed with their premises and couldn't believe my eyes when I saw they had a Panther Solo in there! /> Anyway, I left the Puma tucked up in the workshop and traveled back home on the train. Next day it was all done but they found some other issues so it ended up costing about £1040. In addition to the service and belts it needed a new water pump, front wheel bearing (old one was hanging out) and new front drop links. They also replaced a few brackets and fasteners (front abs sensors and fuel filler neck) as previous owner was the sort of monkey who considers zip ties to be suitable alternative />

They also found a few loose bolts including the other rear hub nut meaning that wheel bearing was loose (I should have checked it when I discovered the one I replaced had been done up little more than hand tight) so Tremona sorted all those out too. I think I'll replace that bearing too anyway as it is still humming slightly. I asked them to have a brief look at the ABS too but a check revealed no fault codes so that remains a mystery. I shall have to pull the binnacle out and check the warning lights and try to identify the relevant fuses and go from there I think. I have until September and the next MoT to sort it out. Oh, it also turned out that the last person to do the cambelt wasn't clued up on FRPs so it was running standard 1.7 timing meaning it feels more lively now it is set up properly. Unfortunately, I haven't had much chance to enjoy it as it dropped its PAS fluid when I got home as the main pipe had split. Probably not secured properly by aforementioned previous owner but Tremona were great and sent a low loader for it next day and fixed it free of charge even though it probably was nothing to do with them.

That took it off the road for the weekend and early part of the next week as Ford initially sent the wrong part. It was back again last Tuesday so looked forward to giving it a proper test drive on Wednesday. It behaved impeccably in the morning; running so much more smoothly than it has ever done previously. Once again I had no indicators though; the multi-plug for the O/S front headlight has lost its blue insert meaning the connectors are not isolated from each other and the one for the front right indicator tends to short out blowing the fuse whenever the O/S headlight gets unplugged (a recurring annoyance meaning I always carry several 15A fuses). I've decided this is getting old though so want to sort it once and for all now (as such I have a shout out for a new multi-plug if anyone has a spare). Unfortunately morning traffic precluded any fun or a proper shake down so planned to take the scenic route home. Alas it wasn't to be. Come chucking out time I manged to get about 200 yards beyond the gate before it threw the pulley off the PAS pump knocking out all the ancillaries - cue another trip on a low loader />

Anyway, one second hand ebay pump and an hour and a half's labour from my local garage Iater and I finally have it back again. I did consider just replacing the pulley (they are an interference fit on the Ford pump) but Tremona advised to replace the pump as a whole. Seems to make sense as it might have been a worn spindle rather than a problem with the pulley itself and as they had never heard of one failing before (lucky me!) they figured that would be the most likely way of ensuring a permanent fix. It may not be a permanent fix though as the local garage have advised me that there is a slight oscillation on the 'new' pump's pulley, although it is very slight - I did watch it for a while tonight but couldn't convince myself if I could see it or not. Anyway, it is not worth replacing the pump again so will just have to wait and see. I have been fiddling with the multi-plug by torchlight to restore the indicators to working order again ready for the journey to work tomorrow (although I note they no longer flash when the deadlocks are engaged so that is yet another issue to address />).

I just hope it works for a bit now as I am beginning to think this car is a typical Ford lemon like my old, unlamented PoS Escort, and 113 needs to start rebuilding my trust in it pretty sharpish or I'll go buy a Clio Trophy instead.
So, the only good news of the last couple of weeks has been 'discovering' Tremona Garage. They are brilliant and highly recommended for anyone within striking distance of Southampton /> Ask for Richard. he really knows his stuff.

This post has been edited by Polypedates: 04 March 2013 - 10:16 PM

[V4FRP]

Sorry to hear your woes but am glad you've found Richard at Tremona absolutely first class knowledge and service. V4 had his Campbeltown and lots of other bits and pieces sorted there and came out a transformed car. Fingers crossed you'll have a bit better luck with 113 going forward you seem to have sorted most of the well known pitfalls.

[evilrob]

+1 for Tremona Garage - I take my boggo Puma there and it comes away driving like a magic carpet every time.

[eldoodarino]

Wow, that really sounds like you've been well and truly 'FRP'd' ... Only when you've gone through a bit of this can you call yourself a proper FRP owner..

Jolking aside, that all sounds like a bloody nightmare!

Iv'e never known a car like the FRP to have one thing fixed only to find something else needs doing no matter how much money you throw at it... and I have certainly thrown my fair share of Wonga at 453 over the last couple of years..

When you get it driving nice, there's nothing quite like it though..

Chris
453

[Dave93]

Sorry to hear about your problems mate, I had a look around 113 a few years back before I brought 007
113 came up as a millennium when I did a hpi check so the lad in Bradford said I could have it for £2000!!

[Polypedates]

Yay, 113 got me to work and back again for the first time in nearly 2 weeks. OK, so the radio conked out this morning (but came back this afternoon) and so did the rear fog lights (still AWOL) but other than that it seemed to be generally OK. Ran really well with noticeably more pep and the exhaust was particularly vocal (the crackles and pops never get old!). The indicators failed a few miles from home but I think I've fixed that now (2 more 15A fuses have been spent so from the pack of 6 I bought last week I now have one spare left). I definitely need a replacement multi-plug to effect a full repair on that.

Radio is probably a loose connection somewhere (or it just doesn't like ZZ Top!) . I thought it might share a circuit with the fog lights given that both seemed to fail at the same time but the radio is back on line whereas the fog lights are still down. Seems to be an issue between switch and battery as the switch tell-tale does not illuminate when you press the button either.

There is a squeaking from the engine bay now that I think might be the replacement pump but I shall probably have to live with it for the time being. I was able to leave work at 4pm today so got home just in time to give the car a wash. A clean car always feels nicer to drive so here's hoping the weather stays dry for a bit. Every little helps and all that.

Anyone got any suggestions on the fog lights - they do not appear to be fused so no clear cause for their sudden failure.

Thanks.

p.s. FRP 007 sounds pretty cool; "the name is 93, Dave 93" /> Sorry, I guess you get that all the time. I am not superstitious but I am starting to wonder if the '13' part of 113 is a bad sign, did Ford make a FRP 013 or did they skip it?

This post has been edited by Polypedates: 05 March 2013 - 09:13 PM

[Dave93]

Thanks it is pretty cool, and yeh they made a Frp 13 Wich is owned by kartracer, on the forums, also think it is up for sale now.

Where abouts do you live? I went to view 113 a few years back in Bradford didn't look to bad although the lad who owned it said he never had the funds to look after it properly.

[Polypedates]

I'm in Hampshire so it has migrated south over the years. It was in Essex previously. Still looks good although it needs some bodywork thanks to the dreaded tin worm - sill lips are particularly chewed. It has clearly been jacked up all over them so they are mostly crushed. I shall adrress that in time but mechanical and electrical woes are my primary focus at the moment.

Weather man says it will rain tomorrow now I have it back and its clean again - typical!