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Getting To Know 113 Issues and problems

#41 User is offline   Polypedates 

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Posted 15 March 2013 - 02:58 PM

Onwards and upwards?

The second hand PAS pump I bought on ebay was making a terrible noise and the pulley was wobbling all over the place so 113 has spent half this week parked up as I was worried it was about to fall off too and 113 would end up on the back of a truck again. It wobbles all over the place and rings like a bell when cold then goes quiet and runs pretty true when warm - no idea why that should be but decided it couldn't be trusted. Fortunately, Richard at Tremona was able to source a reconditioned replacement complete with pulley fitted (Ford sell pump and pulley separately - wtf!?) so trundled over this morning to get it fitted. As for the original pump it is in my shed but the history file does show a warranty claim for a replacement PAS pump due to a failing pulley so it seems this is at least the 4th PAS pump 113 has had - hopefully it is also the last. I think I'll check the one in the shed to see if it was a Ford unit or aftermarket. Anyway, the replacement pump Tremona sourced looked as good as new and came with a 1 year warranty so well worth the £95 delivered.
As it happens the pulley on my second hand ebay pump wasn't loose after all, the shaft was bent! Either the monkeys at my local garage went and wasted £100 of my money fitting a knackered pump or they broke it during installation :rant:/> On that basis I have no idea why the noise and wobble should be confined to a cold engine but it was clearly scrap either way. It took the boys at Tremona a solid 2 hours work to get the new pump on (I watched) as the supplied mounting bracket was wrong so it had to be swapped over and the mounting screws cut down but they still only charged me the originally quoted price despite my protestations.

On top of that, they also cleaned the engine bay as my local garage had left it in a right state and traced the fog light problem to a blown fuse for an electrical control module and sorted that. This has also resulted in the indicators flashing again when the deadlocks are engaged so the two latest issues are now resolved. As the owners manual was rather unhelpful Richard printed me off a full fuse listing from the Ford database for future reference. A check of all the other fuses confirmed everything is OK including those for the ABS system so I'll just have to strip out the instruments and check the warning LEDs next. He also showed me a spare switch for the door latch he had and explained how to fit it so I now have the part number and can sort the driver's side courtesy light issue once the weather improves. All these extras were free of charge so I can only reiterate what a great garage Tremona are :cool:/>

Needless to say the car drives beautifully again now and the steering is even smoother than before so had a great drive home despite the weather. For the icing on the cake I stopped off at my local sorting office to collect a package I needed to sign for on the way home that turned out to be the FRP owners supplement I got off ebay so happy days :)/>

p.s. Tremona had another Panther Solo in there today, owned by the same guy as the other one so in two visits there I have had a good look at 2 of the 8 or so known to still exist! This alone would have made the trips worthwhile.
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#42 User is offline   happy-kat 

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Posted 15 March 2013 - 06:11 PM

Fantastic, happy driving now all sorted.
searching is fruitful | I'm a sponge not a mechanic | please do try that if stuck with a Puma problem whilst waiting for a reply | For the Puma fan this read 'The Inside Story Book' is very nice to own sometimes still seen for sale

#43 User is offline   eldoodarino 

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Posted 16 March 2013 - 05:12 PM

View PostPolypedates, on 15 March 2013 - 02:58 PM, said:

Onwards and upwards?

The second hand PAS pump I bought on ebay was making a terrible noise and the pulley was wobbling all over the place so 113 has spent half this week parked up as I was worried it was about to fall off too and 113 would end up on the back of a truck again. It wobbles all over the place and rings like a bell when cold then goes quiet and runs pretty true when warm - no idea why that should be but decided it couldn't be trusted. Fortunately, Richard at Tremona was able to source a reconditioned replacement complete with pulley fitted (Ford sell pump and pulley separately - wtf!?) so trundled over this morning to get it fitted. As for the original pump it is in my shed but the history file does show a warranty claim for a replacement PAS pump due to a failing pulley so it seems this is at least the 4th PAS pump 113 has had - hopefully it is also the last. I think I'll check the one in the shed to see if it was a Ford unit or aftermarket. Anyway, the replacement pump Tremona sourced looked as good as new and came with a 1 year warranty so well worth the £95 delivered.
As it happens the pulley on my second hand ebay pump wasn't loose after all, the shaft was bent! Either the monkeys at my local garage went and wasted £100 of my money fitting a knackered pump or they broke it during installation :rant:/>/>


I imagine they probably did break it during fitting the pulley wheel... it needs to be done with a specific tool..i think... will look into it as i'm thinking of changing mine at some point..

Chris
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#44 User is offline   Polypedates 

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Posted 20 April 2013 - 02:43 PM

The miles have been ticking by and 113 has been running like a dream. It is now wearing some new Continental SportContact 3 summer tyres and I am looking forward to driving it in the sunshine and maybe managing to keep it clean for more than half a day at a time!

Unfortunately it threw a wobbly on Tuesday and nearly died every time the revs dropped though so checked into a local garage who confirmed it was running rich (fault code P0132). Anyway it got better but still felt hesitant at low revs and down on top-end power so popped over to Tremona this morning to get it checked. As is often the case it was OK when I got there but Richard ran a diagnostic and confirmed all was indeed well. He reckoned the lambda sensor may have become blocked up but the 45 mins on the motorway had cleared it again.

Whilst he had the laptop and stuff out though he ran a deeper diagnostic to trace the likely ABS fault. We went around the block and confirmed that there was no reading from the right rear sensor but others were OK so that would seem to be the problem. First though I had to check why the warning lights were not working so when I got back I stripped out the instrument binnacle. As seems to be par for the course with this car, once I had the surround off I found that of the 4 screws securing the instruments into the dash one was missing and 2 were just lying in their slots not done up at all so it was only secured with a single screw! After that I found I had to remove the steering wheel to get the binnacle out although with hindsight it looked like it might be possible to wriggle it out if the column stalk assembly was removed first so might try that next time.

Anyway, once the binnacle was taken apart the problem was pretty obvious:

Posted Image

Some monkey has removed the LEDs rather than simply replacing a wheel sensor Posted Image They could at least have taped them over rather than butcher the circuit board but I guess that was beyond their intellectual capacity!

So I need to source some new amber LEDs and find someone to solder them in for me - I have a mate who says he is handy with a soldering iron so will probably see if he can do it for beer tokens. First I need to source replacements though - I don't know much about LEDs so will any 12v amber LEDs do or do I need to ask for something more specific re. size and rating etc? I also found one of the instrument illumination bulbs had blown so need a new one of them too. The local autofactors did not recognise the size of the bulb and said it wasn't listed so I guess I need to go to Ford for that.

Regards

This post has been edited by Polypedates: 20 April 2013 - 02:49 PM

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#45 User is offline   happy-kat 

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Posted 20 April 2013 - 04:20 PM

Quite a few members have done led bulb colour swaps so I am sure an anwser will come, the wiki may even have a led swap guide in it.

http://www.pumapeopl..._Led_Conversion
searching is fruitful | I'm a sponge not a mechanic | please do try that if stuck with a Puma problem whilst waiting for a reply | For the Puma fan this read 'The Inside Story Book' is very nice to own sometimes still seen for sale

#46 User is offline   eldoodarino 

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Posted 20 April 2013 - 08:43 PM

you can just use standard 5mm LEDs mate.. does not need to be 12v ones.. the resisitors etc are already on the curcuit board...

bloody poor show that is..iv'e had to fix one like that already... lazy bar stewards!! :rant:

also, your right..the clocks come out easily enough if you just lift up the stalk assembly..worth knowing for future :beer:
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#47 User is offline   Polypedates 

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Posted 24 April 2013 - 05:11 PM

Thanks for the replies :beer:/>

The new LEDs arrived today so will sort a date for my mate to get them fitted although it will probably be next week now. I also went to Ford to get the replacement illumination bulb and picked up a new door switch whilst I was there so I might give that a go this weekend if the weather is OK. Not looking forward to having to strip the whole door apart to do it though!

Can someone remind me the test procedure for the instrument panel as I understand you can use it to check all the warning lights etc work. Something to do with the trip meter reset stalk?

Cheers
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#48 User is offline   eldoodarino 

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Posted 24 April 2013 - 06:59 PM

The door switch is an absolute pain...

the glass certainly pulls away from the door a hell of a lot easier than it slides back in...

do it on a nice dry day outside with the door fully open... if there is such a day.. :good:

You should see the lights as soon as you turn the key.. :beer:
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#49 User is offline   Polypedates 

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Posted 30 April 2013 - 05:22 PM

I spent last Sunday morning fitting the new door switch. What a bar steward of a job. Just when you think there is nothing left of the door to get in the way you find something else has to come out! :blink:/>

All done now though and all working again so I'm happy. I do seem to have reinvigorated a previously vanquished rattle again though so shall have to strip it down once more and look into that. I'll let my hands heal first I think. Going to refit the ABS/TC warning LEDS on Thursday after work if my mate is up to the soldering. What polarity do they go in - I don't recall seeing any markings on the board when I had it stripped?

Oh yeah the exhaust has started blowing too. Probably at the joint ahead of the Cat where the back pressure will be greatest so it is sounding particularly fruity at the moment but it is another opportunity to have a tinker :roflmao:/>

I'm loving driving it even more now the weather is better and I have started thinking about a restoration job on the bodywork but I must desist for now!
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#50 User is offline   eldoodarino 

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Posted 30 April 2013 - 07:15 PM

Ideally if you strip the door down, it's nice to then stick some dynamat extreme on the inside of the outside door skin...also some squashy foam inbetween the door and door card can give it a solid feel... and for the finishing touch i always try and use new black clips when re-fitting the door card (x8 from memory)...when you seperate the clips it can be a bit hit ans miss getting them solidly back together again.... usually can be done this time of year, but when it's cold they just break!..

When you clamp up the exhuast flange use some assembly paste too on the mesh O-ring gasget...or even a high quality sealant like Wurth... the manifold gasget at the engine is as good as useless on the FRP..it leaks for sure..the best seal i ever had here was facing off the surfaces with garnet and then just using a wurth sealant when fitting without gasget!..

:cool:

Chris
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#51 User is offline   happy-kat 

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Posted 03 May 2013 - 08:57 AM

Plus if you strip the door down carefully tape the cables and the cable pin fixings as these rattle!!
searching is fruitful | I'm a sponge not a mechanic | please do try that if stuck with a Puma problem whilst waiting for a reply | For the Puma fan this read 'The Inside Story Book' is very nice to own sometimes still seen for sale

#52 User is offline   Polypedates 

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Posted 13 May 2013 - 09:05 PM

Thanks for the replies, will get around to doing the doors when I can afford some Dynamat I think. In the meantime my mate soldered in the new LEDs a while back - Let there be light!

Posted Image

Orange light to be precise, not quite a perfect match for the OEM amber but good enough for now. Now that is done and the car is showing the abs/tc lights again it is time to look at the offside rear wheel sensor since that is the one that is not working. Before I replace the rear sensors is there a way of checking if the sensor is working? It occurs to me that it might not be reading right since I did the wheel bearing so would like to establish if the sensor is OK first. Failing that, how is it supposed to be fitted relative to the tone wheel?

Thanks

p.s. Whilst the binnacle was out I also gave everything a good clean, replaced a couple of missing/non original screws and fitted new instrument illumination lights so I can also see them properly in the dark again Posted Image I have also been around treating the various chips and scratches with touch-up paint so 113 is looking very fine and still going like the clappers - passed a Porsche Panamera this evening! Posted Image

This post has been edited by Polypedates: 13 May 2013 - 09:09 PM

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#53 User is offline   eldoodarino 

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Posted 14 May 2013 - 09:29 AM

View PostPolypedates, on 13 May 2013 - 09:05 PM, said:

Before I replace the rear sensors is there a way of checking if the sensor is working? It occurs to me that it might not be reading right since I did the wheel bearing so would like to establish if the sensor is OK first. Failing that, how is it supposed to be fitted relative to the tone wheel?



you can do a resistance check with a multimeter on each side of the rear loom where it meets at the connection end... the loom very rarely goes wrong on the rear it's nearly always an issue with the distance and condition of the tone pickup wheel..

:cool:
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#54 User is offline   Polypedates 

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Posted 14 May 2013 - 06:03 PM

Cool, what resistance am I looking for on a healthy sensor?

Also, if OK how should the sensor be situated relative to the tone wheel?

Thanks :beer:/>
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#55 User is offline   eldoodarino 

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Posted 14 May 2013 - 06:57 PM

View PostPolypedates, on 14 May 2013 - 06:03 PM, said:

Cool, what resistance am I looking for on a healthy sensor?

Also, if OK how should the sensor be situated relative to the tone wheel?

Thanks :beer:/>/>


can't remember what the usual figure is off the top of my head, but basically it will be 0 if knackered.. :roflmao:

when fitting a new bearing and tone wheel it should basically 'just' skim the sensor by the tiniest amount..then you know it's perfect...if there's a 1mm gap it's outside of range.. :o
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#56 User is offline   Polypedates 

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Posted 18 May 2013 - 08:52 PM

Another day, another recovery truck. It's a shame I can't earn air miles with Britannia Rescue as at this rate I'd be spending Christmas in the Caribbean. Wife and I were heading to the Shell services on the A3 at Liphook and there was a noticeable smell of coolant so when I pulled up at the pump the assistant started filling 113 with unleaded and I popped the bonnet for a look. I noticed some liquid around the hose connected to the right side of the heater control valve. I reached out to run my finger under the hose to check if it was coolant or water (I'd just washed it so wasn't sure) and as soon as I touched it it flew off spraying yellow coolant all over the engine bay. Obviously the hot coolant inlet for the heater matrix was under pressure as the temperature knob was set to cold hence the coolant explosion.

Basically, the plastic housing for the HCV had become brittle with age and the hose connector had snapped clean off meaning no chance to repair at the roadside. I got the car recovered to my parent's where my tools are and removed the knackered TCV. Two more of the hose connectors snapping clean off as soon as the clips were moved it was so brittle:

Posted Image

So 113 is now off the road again whilst I await a new one from ebay. Ought to be here by Tuesday at the latest. The plastic was so brittle that even the ends still in the hoses just fragmented as soon as I tried to extract them so had to be careful not to end up with tiny plastic shards in the cooling system. It did at least provide me with an excuse to clear out all the rotted leaves and crud built up in there but now a little worried there may be other plastic components in the system of equally poor quality that could fail without warning.

At least this time I broke down at the services!

Is the yellow coolant genuine Ford? Would like some more of the same if possible.

This post has been edited by Polypedates: 18 May 2013 - 08:53 PM

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#57 User is offline   Kizza 

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Posted 18 May 2013 - 09:31 PM

View PostPolypedates, on 18 May 2013 - 08:52 PM, said:

So 113 is now off the road again whilst I await a new one from ebay



the vast majority of the ebay hcv's don't work properly or fail within weeks/months. I know plenty of people who 4-6 months after buying an ebay one has been and got a ford one because there crap. there the same as the fiesta and ka and most ford garages have at least a couple in stock all the time, there most expensive than the ebay items but a good saying is "buy cheap buy twice";)/>


its bad look that your having so many problems with the car but I bet its worth it when its working great and you put your foot down :)/>


#58 User is offline   CartMan 

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Posted 18 May 2013 - 09:56 PM

Oooo. That's bad, unfortuanatly, it's not the first time I'we seen this... Easy fix thoug, but a serious inconvenience....
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#59 User is offline   Polypedates 

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Posted 19 May 2013 - 08:17 AM

No worries Kizza, although bought off ebay the new HCV is a genuine Ford item. Once the listings came up I immediately ranked them on highest cost first and then started looking to ensure I didn't have to scroll through loads of sub-standard, cheapo stuff - 113 deserves better.

Just need to buy some new coolant and I'm sorted. Thinking about it it might be the green stuff in there as it looked greenish yellow but first I'll call Tremona tomorrow and ask what they use as they changed it recently when the cambelt and water pump were done.
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#60 User is offline   eldoodarino 

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Posted 19 May 2013 - 11:08 AM

The proper 10 year stuff from ford is a light purple/pinky colour when diluted... don't use tap water to dilute... (unless you live in Scotland and enjoy lovely soft water..lol :) )
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