My Turn To Attempt The Challenging beating the rust, my progress thread
#221
Posted 11 April 2012 - 10:20 AM
There is a plastic fixing top central holding the wheel arch carpet in, can't work out how this comes out.
Is it brute force and pull it down or is there a squease knack to it?
#222
Posted 11 April 2012 - 10:28 AM
This post has been edited by ScubaSteve: 11 April 2012 - 10:28 AM
#223
Posted 11 April 2012 - 10:56 AM
It is like a plastic fixing with a philips head but it just spins on using a screwdriver.
Like a screw fixing head that spins around a disc.
#224
Posted 11 April 2012 - 01:06 PM
If it is, try holding the back piece with pointed pliers, whilst undoing the screw. If you can't reach it, cut the tops off and fit new ones.
This post has been edited by YOG: 11 April 2012 - 01:07 PM
The Haynes Fiesta Manual (3397) can answer a lot of your questions.
#225
Posted 11 April 2012 - 04:09 PM
Denso Iridium Plugs
Helix Clutch
Mobil 1
#226
Posted 11 April 2012 - 05:26 PM
Will try to share some photos tomorrow of what I have taken off and what I uncover, I am taking photos so they will be there to upload.
#227
Posted 11 April 2012 - 08:34 PM
My roll bar is in very good nick so I will be cleaning it up and refitting as is. It looks like a skinny strut brace and fitted behind the subframe I think from memory. I may enquire on a price when I collect my parts but I think the price is going to be rather ouch anyway and it took 2 hours to take the subframe down alone.
The wishbones were a tad of a mess...
I have a feeling I am going to fit new top mounts next big job as this job is big enough without adding to it on reflection this time, there is little cost advantage.
#228
Posted 12 April 2012 - 12:16 PM
Plastic nightmares!
Foam guard
Near side
Off side and rusty bottle fixing
#229
Posted 14 April 2012 - 08:37 PM
Made a start on cleaning today and finding where the rust is.
Rusty around horn but not botheed about that as not the chassis.
Very little up the wheel arch. Though where there is rust is around the carptet fixing points so I removed the plastic grommits. Also the bottom of the seam is a bit rusty and the corner of the chassis leg where Tickford bashed it with a lump hammer!
Pretty clean where the sub frame mounts. The only rust was in the bolt threads (flipping bolts for that) and the floating bolt fixing carrier.
Showing where previous anti rust application had got too and a few gaps etc. to hover up this time.
#230
Posted 15 April 2012 - 06:34 PM
Another signature in my car.
What a poxy horn!
Possibly the date the bumper was fitted, would tie in with the completion date.
Clean and ready for more of the brown stuff.
Gear stick mounting.
Really pleased with the lack of rust here.
The second hole from the right has a moving plate inside it which carries the thread for what ever bolt goes there. this plate moves all around and even has some lift to it. Sadly there is a small amount of rust on it but I am stuck with it as I can not risk using anything there that dries stuck, so a the rust will be staying and I will try to poke some of my Dymax s-50 over the rust as that stays pliable.
I am toying with how I will treat the couple small areas I have. My preference is to see what comes off with a stiff brush (held in a rag so as not to get rust dust on my clean work) and then treat with Hydrate 80 before I then cover the lot in Dymax UB. I will stick a nozzle in the holes for the subframe and squirt Dymax S-50 but will have to be careful it does not spray out of some other hole further up the chassis etc.
#231
Posted 15 April 2012 - 07:29 PM
#232
Posted 15 April 2012 - 07:34 PM
#233
Posted 15 April 2012 - 07:37 PM
#234
Posted 15 April 2012 - 07:46 PM
You bought a Puma 1.7 and the FRP was an optional extra on the sales invoice, it was a conversion on a standard 1.7. That is how the paperwork was managed.
#236
Posted 15 April 2012 - 08:05 PM
#237
Posted 16 April 2012 - 03:26 PM
during manufacture the raw steel body shell goes through a series of washes and degreasing baths and then a phosphate bath, this etches the steel and provides corrosion resistance to the steel.
it then goes through a vat of charged resin and a current is passed through the body, bonding an even film of resin to the shell, it is then rinsed and baked in an oven then sealed, primed and top coated
interesting process to be fair.
your FRP is looking very good, must be the cleanest FRP in existence?
#238
Posted 16 April 2012 - 05:47 PM
I wish but no mine is not the tidies but I am enjoying the challenge of having a go at what I can. If I do nothing it will rust that is for sure.
#239
Posted 21 April 2012 - 12:43 PM
Pcitures post having a go at the rust with a Dremmel.
The joy of dissimilar metals, this issue is both sides of the leg.
Tickford should not have been given a lump hammer.
Do 17" wheels fit a Puma I say no.
The edge of the leg, bit fiddly trying to get rid of the rust here, it will be a best endevour and keep a close eye on afterwards.
#240
Posted 22 April 2012 - 08:23 AM
make sure you use and acid etch primer on the bare metal areas before any other paint coats and all will be fine .
cant wait to see the subframe, coming along nicely