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Spacers Can you use more than one per wheel

#1 User is offline   mgreeny007 

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Posted 05 January 2009 - 04:23 PM

I have 4 3mm universal wheel spacers, can i use two spacers per wheel at the back to space them out 6mm each?

#2 User is offline   alex182 

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Posted 05 January 2009 - 04:58 PM

QUOTE (mgreeny007 @ Jan 5 2009, 04:23 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
I have 4 3mm universal wheel spacers, can i use two spacers per wheel at the back to space them out 6mm each?


i would'nt up to you though, put alot of stress on the bearings, atleast just buy bigger ones

#3 User is offline   luke 

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Posted 05 January 2009 - 07:59 PM

having two 3mm ones on there wont put more stress on the bearing than having one 6mm one!!

#4 User is offline   luke 

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Posted 05 January 2009 - 08:54 PM

so yes two 3mm ones should be fine. although i think the point alex was trying to make was that if you space the wheel out too far, then it could put stress on the bearing. unless u want to increase the track because you have wider wheels or different offset and your trying to compensate for this

#5 User is offline   FlashBastd 

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Posted 06 January 2009 - 12:22 AM

Nevermind the bearing, with 6mm of spacing, will the spigot ring be doing any good? Don't forget it is the spigot that supports the wheel, the bolts just hold it against the hub.

For the back, you are better with the genuine Ford spacers that go behind the hub.

I have a pair of good quality 5mm spacers for £10 posted if you want them.
2005 Vauxhall VX220 Turbo
2000 Ford Focus 1.6i Ghia
2006 Renault Clio 2.0i RenaultSport 197 - SOLD
2005 Honda CR-V 2.0i Executive auto
2001 Ford Puma 1.7i Black

#6 User is offline   PGD 

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Posted 06 January 2009 - 11:13 AM

QUOTE (FlashBastd @ Jan 6 2009, 12:22 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Nevermind the bearing, with 6mm of spacing, will the spigot ring be doing any good? Don't forget it is the spigot that supports the wheel, the bolts just hold it against the hub.

Nooo, surely the wheel bots bear more weight than that with their locating chamfer edge? The spigot rings off our old 17's were only plastic, didnt feel that strong huh.gif

As for the thread question, I'd look to get a single spacer the correct width myself and not use two 3mm ones wink.gif
a.k.a. Phil

#7 User is offline   hot wheels 

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  Posted 06 January 2009 - 11:23 AM

You should only use Hubcentric Spacers i have posted some pictures on here you can get a set of eibach spacers from Demon-Tweeks check out their web site.


Try this, demon-tweeks.co.uk

#8 User is offline   FlashBastd 

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Posted 06 January 2009 - 11:36 AM

The spigot rings do all the work, even if I am wrong, wouldn't you rather be safe than sorry?
2005 Vauxhall VX220 Turbo
2000 Ford Focus 1.6i Ghia
2006 Renault Clio 2.0i RenaultSport 197 - SOLD
2005 Honda CR-V 2.0i Executive auto
2001 Ford Puma 1.7i Black

#9 User is offline   PGD 

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Posted 06 January 2009 - 12:07 PM

I would yeah, its the wheels afterall, if any component gets some forces thrown at it its them!

Thats why I said get the right bit smile.gif
a.k.a. Phil

#10 User is offline   luke 

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Posted 06 January 2009 - 09:05 PM

spigot rings main job i think is just to locate the wheel properly, no way they support most of the weight.
but i think the general consensus tho is that if you want to space out the wheels, by all means do but use a proper setup

#11 User is offline   yippeekiay 

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Posted 07 January 2009 - 03:54 AM

QUOTE (luke @ Jan 6 2009, 09:05 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
spigot rings main job i think is just to locate the wheel properly, no way they support most of the weight.
but i think the general consensus tho is that if you want to space out the wheels, by all means do but use a proper setup


Spigot rings are important, these take up the gap between the wheel centre bore and the locating ring on the hubs thus taking all the 'up & down' force through the wheel (Think that's the loading and preloading but not technically savvy...lol). Your thinking would be more in line with what the actual studs do. They are there to simply locate the wheel and stop it falling off but are not meant to take any of the said forces on the wheel. Without spigot rings there's a chance of mis-aligned wheels resulting in an 'unbalanced' feel or worse the studs could sheer under a heavy impact.

Sounds like I know what I'm talking about but is just a common sense answer to me. (No disrespect meant, it's hard to explain something sometimes without sounding facetious) good.gif

This post has been edited by yippeekiay: 07 January 2009 - 03:54 AM


#12 User is offline   m_kitty 

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Posted 07 January 2009 - 09:55 AM

spigot rings are there for location only

the bolts are there to provide a clamping force

in both cases they are not strong enough to take the forces for extended periods of time, luckily when they are loose the wheel wobbles and lets you know something is wrong.

the clamping foce between the wheel and the drive flange is what transfers the forces from tyre to suspension. for this reason multiple spacers are not such a good idea as you are clamping several faces with small imperfections as opposed to just the one.

as a general rule of thumb as long as the thread is engaged for at least one and a half times the diameter of the bolt the joint will make full strength. also 3 of the 4 fixings will provide a strong enough joint for emergencies.

#13 User is offline   yippeekiay 

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Posted 07 January 2009 - 12:34 PM

QUOTE (m_kitty @ Jan 7 2009, 09:55 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
spigot rings are there for location only

the bolts are there to provide a clamping force

in both cases they are not strong enough to take the forces for extended periods of time, luckily when they are loose the wheel wobbles and lets you know something is wrong.

the clamping foce between the wheel and the drive flange is what transfers the forces from tyre to suspension. for this reason multiple spacers are not such a good idea as you are clamping several faces with small imperfections as opposed to just the one.

as a general rule of thumb as long as the thread is engaged for at least one and a half times the diameter of the bolt the joint will make full strength. also 3 of the 4 fixings will provide a strong enough joint for emergencies.



Thats the term I was looking for...'drive flange'. I believe the spigot rings transfer the froce from the wheel to the drive flange as they are what take up the difference in size of the centre bore of wheels if applicable (i.e. on aftermarket alloys). I might be out of context here as this post is indicating the use of spacers which would take the centrebore of the wheels away from the drive flange anyway.

#14 User is offline   alex182 

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Posted 07 January 2009 - 04:38 PM

QUOTE (luke @ Jan 5 2009, 07:59 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
having two 3mm ones on there wont put more stress on the bearing than having one 6mm one!!



rather have 1 solid one though

#15 User is offline   PGD 

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Posted 08 January 2009 - 09:09 AM

Well, if the spigot ring transfers all of the force, try putting your wheel on with the wheel nuts on backwards, so the chamfered edge faces out. See how long it lasts before wobbling laugh.gif

Spigot ring is just for locating purposes, as said the ones on our old 17's were far too flimsy to sit a cars weight on mellow.gif
a.k.a. Phil

#16 User is offline   yippeekiay 

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Posted 09 January 2009 - 02:23 AM

QUOTE (PGD @ Jan 8 2009, 09:09 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Well, if the spigot ring transfers all of the force, try putting your wheel on with the wheel nuts on backwards, so the chamfered edge faces out. See how long it lasts before wobbling laugh.gif

Spigot ring is just for locating purposes, as said the ones on our old 17's were far too flimsy to sit a cars weight on mellow.gif



Try putting a wheel with a larger centre bore on without spigot rings on and seeing how long they stay true. I feel a vibration may come sooner or later as they are not seated to the drive flange snuggly because the spigot rings act to transfer the forces to the drive flange and keep the wheel true at the same time. And when these spigot rings are not fitted where are the forces going to go if the wheel is not in contact with the drive flange which is supposed to take all said forces....they got to the studs and then inturn 'knock' the wheel off centre thus resulting in said vibrations. The studs - as already stated by others - act to keep the wheel clamped to the hub and act agaist cornering forces not the forces created by the up & down motion. Many a time after prolongued use the spigot rings get compressed due to the forces created on them and have to be replaced....if the nuts were taking all the force as you profess then they should stay in tip top condition for all eternity...but they don't.

#17 User is offline   m_kitty 

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Posted 09 January 2009 - 10:15 AM

Yippee mate the spigot ring is a location device it transfers no significant force. indeed they are uneccessary as a location device as the chamfered wheel nuts provide enough location, there could be an arguement to say they are putting additional strain on the studs. i suspect they are supplied for cars with bolts not studs.

it sounds like you are thinkng in logical terms rather than engineering terms, it is illogical to think friction can be strong enough, yet you accept the operation of a cluch - which transfers the same forces with only a spring supplying the clamping force. all the forces are transmitted by the friction between the wheel face and the drive flange. both faces are quite accuratly machined to allow a good fit. quite a lot of joints in the car are friction reliant, using threaded fixings to apply the force. cornering forces would indeed be carried on the studs, but in tension, the correct way for a bolt to directly control load.

i run a lot of wheels without the correct centre and as long as the nuts engage correctly and are tightened correctly they go no-where.



#18 User is offline   luke 

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Posted 09 January 2009 - 06:02 PM

QUOTE (m_kitty @ Jan 9 2009, 10:15 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Yippee mate the spigot ring is a location device it transfers no significant force. indeed they are uneccessary as a location device as the chamfered wheel nuts provide enough location, there could be an arguement to say they are putting additional strain on the studs. i suspect they are supplied for cars with bolts not studs.

it sounds like you are thinkng in logical terms rather than engineering terms, it is illogical to think friction can be strong enough, yet you accept the operation of a cluch - which transfers the same forces with only a spring supplying the clamping force. all the forces are transmitted by the friction between the wheel face and the drive flange. both faces are quite accuratly machined to allow a good fit. quite a lot of joints in the car are friction reliant, using threaded fixings to apply the force. cornering forces would indeed be carried on the studs, but in tension, the correct way for a bolt to directly control load.

i run a lot of wheels without the correct centre and as long as the nuts engage correctly and are tightened correctly they go no-where.



very well put.

#19 User is offline   PGD 

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Posted 10 January 2009 - 09:18 PM

QUOTE (luke @ Jan 9 2009, 06:02 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
very well put.

What he said ^^
a.k.a. Phil

#20 User is offline   yippeekiay 

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Posted 11 January 2009 - 03:16 AM

I started to write more on this subject but there are too many contradictions so am closing my thoughts in brief (Still long...lol). If the spigot rings are there for location only and don't transfer ANY of the forces WHY have them at all when your saying the bolts/nuts are there for locating the wheel.

The term 'flogging a dead horse' seems to be the case here.

All can do is draw on experience, being that when my Omega which has 18"s on with a much bigger centre bore than the drive ring/flange were fitted to my car 'centrally' without spigot rings they worked great for a few hundred miles then would be 'knocked' off centre due to the forces acting on the wheel and I would get a bitch of vibration from the wheels (I drive like a loon alot and don't slow for speed bumps...lol). Once I fitted the spigot rings - after numerous refitting of the wheels previously - the vibrations NEVER came back and if they did, after a re-balancing of the wheels or after fitting new tyres, they were as good as gold. Does this not mean that - although they do help locate the wheel when fitting ONLY - the forces generated on the wheel before fitting them was causing slip even with 5 studs holding them but was being absorbed thro' the spigot rings to the drive ring/flange at the center of the hub when fitted???? So being an integral part in taking the impact of the forces acting on the wheels or at least transferring said forces.

I think so and won't be told otherwise as that's the experience I had with my wheels.

I've took my ball home and lost my dummy now....lol

This post has been edited by yippeekiay: 11 January 2009 - 03:19 AM


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