Spacers Can you use more than one per wheel
#1
Posted 05 January 2009 - 04:23 PM
#2
Posted 05 January 2009 - 04:58 PM
i would'nt up to you though, put alot of stress on the bearings, atleast just buy bigger ones
#3
Posted 05 January 2009 - 07:59 PM
#4
Posted 05 January 2009 - 08:54 PM
#5
Posted 06 January 2009 - 12:22 AM
For the back, you are better with the genuine Ford spacers that go behind the hub.
I have a pair of good quality 5mm spacers for £10 posted if you want them.
2000 Ford Focus 1.6i Ghia
2006 Renault Clio 2.0i RenaultSport 197 - SOLD
2005 Honda CR-V 2.0i Executive auto
2001 Ford Puma 1.7i Black
#6
Posted 06 January 2009 - 11:13 AM
Nooo, surely the wheel bots bear more weight than that with their locating chamfer edge? The spigot rings off our old 17's were only plastic, didnt feel that strong
As for the thread question, I'd look to get a single spacer the correct width myself and not use two 3mm ones
#7
Posted 06 January 2009 - 11:23 AM
Try this, demon-tweeks.co.uk
#8
Posted 06 January 2009 - 11:36 AM
2000 Ford Focus 1.6i Ghia
2006 Renault Clio 2.0i RenaultSport 197 - SOLD
2005 Honda CR-V 2.0i Executive auto
2001 Ford Puma 1.7i Black
#9
Posted 06 January 2009 - 12:07 PM
Thats why I said get the right bit
#10
Posted 06 January 2009 - 09:05 PM
but i think the general consensus tho is that if you want to space out the wheels, by all means do but use a proper setup
#11
Posted 07 January 2009 - 03:54 AM
but i think the general consensus tho is that if you want to space out the wheels, by all means do but use a proper setup
Spigot rings are important, these take up the gap between the wheel centre bore and the locating ring on the hubs thus taking all the 'up & down' force through the wheel (Think that's the loading and preloading but not technically savvy...lol). Your thinking would be more in line with what the actual studs do. They are there to simply locate the wheel and stop it falling off but are not meant to take any of the said forces on the wheel. Without spigot rings there's a chance of mis-aligned wheels resulting in an 'unbalanced' feel or worse the studs could sheer under a heavy impact.
Sounds like I know what I'm talking about but is just a common sense answer to me. (No disrespect meant, it's hard to explain something sometimes without sounding facetious)
This post has been edited by yippeekiay: 07 January 2009 - 03:54 AM
#12
Posted 07 January 2009 - 09:55 AM
the bolts are there to provide a clamping force
in both cases they are not strong enough to take the forces for extended periods of time, luckily when they are loose the wheel wobbles and lets you know something is wrong.
the clamping foce between the wheel and the drive flange is what transfers the forces from tyre to suspension. for this reason multiple spacers are not such a good idea as you are clamping several faces with small imperfections as opposed to just the one.
as a general rule of thumb as long as the thread is engaged for at least one and a half times the diameter of the bolt the joint will make full strength. also 3 of the 4 fixings will provide a strong enough joint for emergencies.
#13
Posted 07 January 2009 - 12:34 PM
the bolts are there to provide a clamping force
in both cases they are not strong enough to take the forces for extended periods of time, luckily when they are loose the wheel wobbles and lets you know something is wrong.
the clamping foce between the wheel and the drive flange is what transfers the forces from tyre to suspension. for this reason multiple spacers are not such a good idea as you are clamping several faces with small imperfections as opposed to just the one.
as a general rule of thumb as long as the thread is engaged for at least one and a half times the diameter of the bolt the joint will make full strength. also 3 of the 4 fixings will provide a strong enough joint for emergencies.
Thats the term I was looking for...'drive flange'. I believe the spigot rings transfer the froce from the wheel to the drive flange as they are what take up the difference in size of the centre bore of wheels if applicable (i.e. on aftermarket alloys). I might be out of context here as this post is indicating the use of spacers which would take the centrebore of the wheels away from the drive flange anyway.
#14
Posted 07 January 2009 - 04:38 PM
rather have 1 solid one though
#15
Posted 08 January 2009 - 09:09 AM
Spigot ring is just for locating purposes, as said the ones on our old 17's were far too flimsy to sit a cars weight on
#16
Posted 09 January 2009 - 02:23 AM
Spigot ring is just for locating purposes, as said the ones on our old 17's were far too flimsy to sit a cars weight on
Try putting a wheel with a larger centre bore on without spigot rings on and seeing how long they stay true. I feel a vibration may come sooner or later as they are not seated to the drive flange snuggly because the spigot rings act to transfer the forces to the drive flange and keep the wheel true at the same time. And when these spigot rings are not fitted where are the forces going to go if the wheel is not in contact with the drive flange which is supposed to take all said forces....they got to the studs and then inturn 'knock' the wheel off centre thus resulting in said vibrations. The studs - as already stated by others - act to keep the wheel clamped to the hub and act agaist cornering forces not the forces created by the up & down motion. Many a time after prolongued use the spigot rings get compressed due to the forces created on them and have to be replaced....if the nuts were taking all the force as you profess then they should stay in tip top condition for all eternity...but they don't.
#17
Posted 09 January 2009 - 10:15 AM
it sounds like you are thinkng in logical terms rather than engineering terms, it is illogical to think friction can be strong enough, yet you accept the operation of a cluch - which transfers the same forces with only a spring supplying the clamping force. all the forces are transmitted by the friction between the wheel face and the drive flange. both faces are quite accuratly machined to allow a good fit. quite a lot of joints in the car are friction reliant, using threaded fixings to apply the force. cornering forces would indeed be carried on the studs, but in tension, the correct way for a bolt to directly control load.
i run a lot of wheels without the correct centre and as long as the nuts engage correctly and are tightened correctly they go no-where.
#18
Posted 09 January 2009 - 06:02 PM
it sounds like you are thinkng in logical terms rather than engineering terms, it is illogical to think friction can be strong enough, yet you accept the operation of a cluch - which transfers the same forces with only a spring supplying the clamping force. all the forces are transmitted by the friction between the wheel face and the drive flange. both faces are quite accuratly machined to allow a good fit. quite a lot of joints in the car are friction reliant, using threaded fixings to apply the force. cornering forces would indeed be carried on the studs, but in tension, the correct way for a bolt to directly control load.
i run a lot of wheels without the correct centre and as long as the nuts engage correctly and are tightened correctly they go no-where.
very well put.
#20
Posted 11 January 2009 - 03:16 AM
The term 'flogging a dead horse' seems to be the case here.
All can do is draw on experience, being that when my Omega which has 18"s on with a much bigger centre bore than the drive ring/flange were fitted to my car 'centrally' without spigot rings they worked great for a few hundred miles then would be 'knocked' off centre due to the forces acting on the wheel and I would get a bitch of vibration from the wheels (I drive like a loon alot and don't slow for speed bumps...lol). Once I fitted the spigot rings - after numerous refitting of the wheels previously - the vibrations NEVER came back and if they did, after a re-balancing of the wheels or after fitting new tyres, they were as good as gold. Does this not mean that - although they do help locate the wheel when fitting ONLY - the forces generated on the wheel before fitting them was causing slip even with 5 studs holding them but was being absorbed thro' the spigot rings to the drive ring/flange at the center of the hub when fitted???? So being an integral part in taking the impact of the forces acting on the wheels or at least transferring said forces.
I think so and won't be told otherwise as that's the experience I had with my wheels.
I've took my ball home and lost my dummy now....lol
This post has been edited by yippeekiay: 11 January 2009 - 03:19 AM