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Dynomatting.

#1 User is offline   torus 

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Posted 11 May 2003 - 07:27 PM

As I'm replacing the standard ford stereo system with something that will really rock :twisted: , thought I'd go the whole 9 yards and dynomat as much of the car as possible, especially as there's very limited sound deadening as standard I can hear the smallest stones flicked up from the wheels hitting the door sills. My question is has anyone done this :?: how do I get the rear 1/4 and door trims off without damaging them :?: Also how much dynomat is required :?:

#2 User is offline   Ian S 

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Posted 12 May 2003 - 06:44 AM

In my experience the chances of getting the door panels off without breaking the plastic clips is very low, so buy new ones before you start sad.gif

Ian

#3 User is offline   torus 

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Posted 12 May 2003 - 07:15 AM

Thanks for the tip :wink: , (unlike a car manufacture to make something that break's when you have to remove it) :roll: . I hope mean buying the little plastic clips and not the whole trim. Once the screws are out is it best to pull the bottom part of the trim off first and then ease it out of the window end :?:

#4 User is offline   Ian S 

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Posted 12 May 2003 - 07:29 AM

Yes the clips break.

Remove the cover from inside the mirror - take out all the screws from the panel - unclip the panel starting at the bottom & then pull the panel up ( it wraps over the door at the top IIRC)

Ian

#5 User is offline   torus 

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Posted 12 May 2003 - 07:51 AM

Cheers I'm out to give it a go biggrin.gif , what about the rear 1/4's anyone :?:

#6 User is offline   dangersport 

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Posted 09 June 2003 - 05:16 PM

There is one rule for Dynamatting, More is BEST. I work at a Proffesional Car Audio shop (not like certain 'mega' stores beginning with H!?!?) You can't go wrong with the stuff, They do a speaker kit which if all you want to do is change the speakers is great, as its a square of dynamat that just covers the area you are doing, or you can buy door and trunk kits, these are more expensive, but are worth it in the end. Just buy a roll and go from there, plus don't throw ANY away as you just stick the little offcuts on to the panels.

My car has everything dynamatted - Doors, Boot, Floor, Roof - extreme but it works otherwise I wouldn't do it!!

Any questions on thi or any other car audio matters,please don't hesitate to mail me:

info@dangersport.com

#7 User is offline   Ian S 

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Posted 09 June 2003 - 05:30 PM

But is Dynamat a GOOD 'soundproofing' material or does it dampen out vibrations etc & how does it compare with dedicated soundproofing materials (mat)?

Ian

#8 User is offline   dangersport 

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Posted 09 June 2003 - 05:45 PM

Dynamat is the best sound deadening I have come across. I have used brown bread (also available at wickes ;-) ) and numerous other types, they just don't cut it, in either ease of use (applying etc) or dampening abilities. It depends on what you mean by dedicated soundproofing materials, there is so much of this stuff on the market. One thing I would not recommend, is taking out the standard soundproofing ( the furry stuff under the carpets) if you are dynamatting, if you are going to an extreme way of doing this - interior floor etc, then dynamat the metal, then put the furry stuff back in, not that this does a lot of difference but it cushions the carpet and makes the floor more comfortable when you get in the car, also makes the seats sit better when you put them back in! (I learned this lesson the hardway in my civic (main audio car) when the seats didn't sit properly :oops: )

Does it dampen out vibrations?

The test we have in the shop is 2 bells, one has dynamat on, and one doesn't. The one with doesn't ring - the one without makes a noise - Simple.

The easiest way to test is to buy either a roll (I recommend xtreme but it's more expensive) or a speaker kit (£9.99) and stick it on a panel in your car that you can knock from the outside - e.g door. when you stick the piece on the door and knock it from the outside is will no resonate unlike the other door which you havn't done (you know what I mean if you do it)

Other benefit is your doors sound nicer when you shut them!!! (thud not clunk)

Sorry for the long replies but I'd rather answer questions fully and give explanations than give half answers

Anymore questions just ask.

#9 User is offline   daglesj 

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Posted 09 June 2003 - 08:01 PM

Yep Dynamat Extreme is pretty good stuff. I ordered two rolls of the standard a couple of years ago but they sent me Extreme instead. I did the boot floor with it. Deadend it down a treat.

I then went on and lined my PC, but not with Dynamat. I found some stuff in Homebase called Marleys Sealent Tape (in the roofing section). You can get it in several widths and lengths pretty darn cheap, similar mastiky stuff to Dynamat. It worked great in my PC, cut down a lot of case vibration, dont know about putting it in your car though. Might work in less critical areas if funds dont stretch to Dynamat everywhere.

Remember though, once the stuff is in, its staying!

#10 User is offline   pumablack 

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Posted 17 September 2003 - 05:56 PM

I notice on Ebay today, someone is selling 2 rolls of Dynamat for ?16 - its item number 3047107927.

Ends 19th Sep at 02:43:30 BST

Shame I already bought mine...
:roll:


Paul
Fashions fade. Style is eternal

www.protein1.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk

#11 User is offline   mountainkat 

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Posted 18 September 2003 - 07:01 AM

Anyone tried the "spray-on" soundproofing that you can buy - was thinking of Dynomatting the speakers & using the spray stuff on the rest of the doors


thanks


Mkat

#12 User is offline   torus 

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Posted 06 October 2003 - 07:55 PM

Since my original post I've finished my instal. I've dynomated from the front of the foot wells back to the forward edge of the rear seats, the whole boot area, the rear wings and wheel wells, the rear speaker enclosures and both inner and outer door skins. Also used some spray sound proofing called dynoshield, this is good for hard to reach places like the bottoms,front and rear ends of the doors. I also used it to coat the inner metal at the back of the rear wings around the light clusters.All this little lot took 22 sheets of dynomat and 5 cans of dynoshield, Yes lots of money and lots more time and effort. But the effect was well worth it, much less road and engine noise. There is no noise from panel vibration that I can hear and from the outside you can bearly hear the bass. This is great for me cos I like me music but don't want to draw people's attention to the kit thats making it. However if you're a twatt that requires to annoy as many people as possible through towns and villages :yell: then your money would be better spent on another amp and sub. This will obviously pull loads of fanny and put 2" on your oops :!: .

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Posted 06 October 2003 - 08:00 PM

i may get some too!!!!ive got all my panels off and not broke a clip!!!! strange for me!!!! ja_stupid.gif

#14 User is offline   Ian S 

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Posted 07 October 2003 - 06:58 AM

If your looking to soundproof your car as opposed to improving the acoustic qualities of it try www.customaudiodesigns.co.uk/index.htm, they sell loads of sound proofing materials. I e-mailed them some time ago asking for prices etc. the reply:-

"you want to use our spaced layer soundproofing mat 85.58+vat per roll (3m x 1.25m x 12mm)

Yours Sincerely,

Gary Peskett / Technical Team
Technical Calls - 0870 747 5511
SALES CALLS ONLY - 0870 747 5432"


Reckon 2 rolls should do the whole car

Ian

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