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24V V6 Cosworth Puma Project Rate Topic: ***** 5 Votes

#81 User is offline   warrenpenalver 

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Posted 06 May 2010 - 07:43 PM

dave look on my thread for info on where the mounts go. Youll probably need to fabricate box mounts to get the beam mounts sitting where you want.
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#82 User is offline   happy-kat 

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Posted 06 May 2010 - 07:47 PM

You are travelling so fast through this project you must almost be thinking about the project after this one.

At least your old car is being used for something rather than just crushed as is :)
searching is fruitful | I'm a sponge not a mechanic | please do try that if stuck with a Puma problem whilst waiting for a reply | For the Puma fan this read 'The Inside Story Book' is very nice to own sometimes still seen for sale

#83 User is offline   Dogsbody 

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Posted 06 May 2010 - 08:26 PM

Dave, info you wanted posted today ;)
MK4 XR3i
Mk3 XR3i
R Reg 1.7 Puma
T Reg 1.7 Lux Puma
Now its Racing Puma 072

Graham

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#84 User is offline   Dave2302 

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Posted 06 May 2010 - 08:49 PM

Warren, yeah cheers will take a look, already got a few Ideas for fabbing the mounts, especially the rear "diff" one.

Thanks Kat, but it's all gonna start slowing down soon, unbolting and stripping bits off is the easy bit, theres gonna be a lot of cleaning overhauling and painting to be done once all the cutting, welding and fabricating is done.

Then there's the gearbox, that'll be a thread on its own lol, I'll just say this for now, I doubt very much this cars gonna have a clutch pedal, and "wots them buttons for on the steering wheel" ?? :) :) :)

Graham,

Cheers mate, a great help.

Thanks all,

Regards Dave
It's nice to be important but it's more important to be nice !!

#85 User is offline   warrenpenalver 

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Posted 07 May 2010 - 01:41 AM

diff mount is easy to do. Weld plate into boot floor and stiffen up horizontally with a couple of rods across the floor. Then to make it really solid you want a tubular roll cage bar from the rear strut top to the centre of the boot floor on each side, ie a V shape, then run a bar across between the 2 struts. Will stiffen rear up nicely!!

You dont need the horozontal bar between strut tops really, but the escos boys do it a lot when converting to coilover as the escos arches and strut top mounts are not meant to take full load so flex a bit with coilovers. Puma rear inner arch is stronger as its fully load bearing.
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#86 User is offline   volcomstone411 

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Posted 07 May 2010 - 07:10 AM

yea no need to have one across the struts, have a bar across the dash joining to a piller bars, and then triangulate to the truts like the custom cages cage. Its as strong and gets you some more room in the engine bay.
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#87 User is offline   Dave2302 

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Posted 07 May 2010 - 08:42 PM

Thanks for the encouragement guys, and yep I was right lol, the rear end is a far bigger ass of a job than the front will be, but I've made some good progress today.....

Puma back on the lift this morning and I stripped out the old beam axle affair. Next roughly cut off all the no longer needed brackets like fuel tank, charcoal canister, exhaust mounts, pipe clip pins etc. This produced a nice little pile of scrap on the floor.....

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This is wot it looks like under the back end now.....

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I put the Scorpio rear beam on the transmission jack and shoved it up into place, 3 - 4 inches low cos it clouts the Puma underside here and there.
The reason the back end is such a pig to do nicely is that it hits on the chassis and inner / outer sills so a lot of metal has to be cut away, theres about 3 skins, so this seriously weakens the back of the car, (just for now) lol.
Here's the belly ache remember it still needs to go up about 3" - 4" .....

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So a couple of hours carefully un picking layer after layer of sill, inner sill and chassis produced a mess on the floor :) .....

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Won't be opening the Pumas doors lol, until some careful re shaping and re building / welding is done to re - inforce this, both sides now cut out ;)

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Another couple of hours saw these fabricated, main inner mounts for the forward rear subframe bushes with captive 12 mm nuts on re inforcing plates, all 2mm thick steel.....

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Eventually once they are welded in propery they will have another skin over the top of them, all tied back in to the main rear chassis, which will be reshaped for subframe and suspension / driveshaft clearance. These inner mounts will be welded to the floorpan and once tacked into place a quick geometry check to make sure the wheels end up in the correct place :)

To make life easier, I bolted these onto the front subframe mounts, lifted it into its final resting place and once I was satisfied it was all sitting exactly in the right place I tack welded them into place, then double checked the wheelbase and centralization.....

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This is what it looks like with the back end in place and lined up, with the suspension in the fully extended (full rebound) position, Phat fooker or what ??

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:) :) :)

So I have now dropped the subframe back out and next job is to weld these inner mounts to the floorpan properly and then painstakingly re build 3 layers of chassis in the new shape needed for the independent rear end.
This will include fabricating some mounts for the stiffener plate which goes over the top of the big subframe bushes and then fabricate the central rear diff mount, and a nice neat "diff bulge" for the boot floor.

Last job today was to sweep out and clean up tons of friggin abrasive black dust that occupied the whole workshop from all the 9" cutting wheels I destroyed earlier LMAO.

All in all I'm happy with a good productive day, and now the rear alignment is correct the rest of the back end installation should go quite smoothly :)

Chow fr now,

Dave
It's nice to be important but it's more important to be nice !!

#88 User is offline   happy-kat 

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Posted 07 May 2010 - 08:53 PM

Until I saw the pictures to go with the start of that post I was thinking would it not have been easier to have cut and shut the beam shorter, then I remembered it was 4x4 so had a lump in the middle!
Could have done a FRP in reverse and cut and removed a peice from each side ;)
searching is fruitful | I'm a sponge not a mechanic | please do try that if stuck with a Puma problem whilst waiting for a reply | For the Puma fan this read 'The Inside Story Book' is very nice to own sometimes still seen for sale

#89 User is offline   FlashBastd 

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Posted 07 May 2010 - 08:54 PM

Big steps now! V. impressive!
2005 Vauxhall VX220 Turbo
2000 Ford Focus 1.6i Ghia
2006 Renault Clio 2.0i RenaultSport 197 - SOLD
2005 Honda CR-V 2.0i Executive auto
2001 Ford Puma 1.7i Black

#90 User is offline   eldoodarino 

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Posted 07 May 2010 - 09:07 PM

Blimey!..what a job mate... :o :o

this is one interesting thread... B)

Isn't this the conversion our friend Jacko has been talking about doing for like 3 years... :huh:

keep up the good work... :good:
Wizards Of Nos 60hp progressive delivery.... yeah baby yeah :-o
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#91 User is offline   Dave2302 

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Posted 07 May 2010 - 09:28 PM

Isn't this the conversion our friend Jacko has been talking about doing for like 3 years...



Dunno, who's Jacko ??

AFAIK there isn't another one like this :)

Warren has a nice 4x4 with YB Cossie, and I've only seen one other 4x4 YB one, tho there is 2 or 3 2WD YB Cossie Pumas around.

Thanks guys for the positive comments, keep 'em coming ;)

KAT, didn't want it any narrower lol, by the time them big rear quarter panels go on the wheels will be tucked away nicely ;)

Cheers,

Dave
It's nice to be important but it's more important to be nice !!

#92 User is offline   plowy 

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Posted 07 May 2010 - 10:11 PM

terrific project dave, wish i had the time and knowledge to embark on something like this...

#93 User is offline   warrenpenalver 

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Posted 07 May 2010 - 10:47 PM

dave is your beam same as saph/escos?? I dont think mines got a bulge in the boot for a diff so you might not need hack and maim everywhere.
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#94 User is offline   Dave2302 

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Posted 08 May 2010 - 08:47 AM

View Postwarrenpenalver, on 07 May 2010 - 10:47 PM, said:

dave is your beam same as saph/escos?? I dont think mines got a bulge in the boot for a diff so you might not need hack and maim everywhere.


Yeah Warren, its just a bit wider on the outside edges AFAIK, but it definitely needs a small bulge or I may just put a slighty higher but "flat" boot floor in, will know more when the rear "diff" mount is in.
Looking at yours in the pics, I think the whole beam sits a bit lower than mine, but I wanted mines lowest points (mountings) just higher / level with the main floorpan level, as it was in the Scorpio, to give less chance of snagging on "rough terrain", than if it was sticking down a little ;)

If you know what I mean lol, I think I understand that :)

Cheers Dave
It's nice to be important but it's more important to be nice !!

#95 User is offline   Puma2010 

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Posted 08 May 2010 - 12:51 PM

I can't believe the rate your going at!! lol. When do you think you will have it done by?

C.
Since my first car I have always looked to own cars that would be great to drive, but on a reasonable budget. These are the cars that I have owned over the years, from my first to present:
1. Mk1 Fiesta 1300S | 2. Mk1 Fiesta XR2 | 3. Puma 1.7 in Melina Blue | 4. Mk2 Toyota MR2 GT | 5. Mk3 Cortina 1600L | 6. Honda CRX ESi | 7. Ford Sportka | 8. Honda Civic VTi -S | 9. Toyota Yaris 1.8 SR | 10. Honda Civic 1.8 SE i-vTEC | 11. Puma 1.7 in Moondust Silver

#96 User is offline   dawesy 

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Posted 08 May 2010 - 12:56 PM

wow quick progress. looking good.
thats gonna be one wide ass when its done :cool: :woot:
my other toy has 470bhp

#97 User is offline   warrenpenalver 

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Posted 08 May 2010 - 01:01 PM

Yeah i know what you mean!! although id like to think if your going over a surface that can get you physically stuck on the rear beam then your probably already off the rally stage :roflmao::roflmao:
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#98 User is offline   Dave2302 

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Posted 08 May 2010 - 06:56 PM

Puma2010,

Hoping it's gonna be done for the end of November, then I can "shake it down a bit" before the next "Snowman Rally"

Initially in 3.0 Normally Aspirated guise, about 230 hp, 300 ft/lb torque. This is the BOB engine I had in the Scorpio, which is pretty stock apart from a few mods. Will allow me to set the car up without seriously mental power :)

Over the winter I'll be building a short stroke 2449 cc "screamer version of this engine with lower compression and 2 turbos, will be good for at least 450 bhp and about 500 ft/lb torque. This is because Rally regs will only allow the current engine without turbo(s), but if it comes down under 2500cc then I can run turbo(s).

Dawesy,

Fanks mate, yeah I'm chuffed now it's starting to go together. I started at the back end cos I could see (pardon the pun), this was gonna be the "arse" of the running gear install.

The running gear and steering at the front will go in much easier.

Warren, lol yeah I know what you mean, probably more likely to hit a tree etc :) :) :)



Well not much progress today unfortunately cos work took priority :( :( :(

I managed to get the diff bolted in and get the height / angle of the whole chebang set up correctly ready to make the diff mounting beam tommoz.
I'ts definitely gonna go up into the boot floor by 40mm, so a small box / hump methinks

Will also start reinstating the cut out bits of chassis, layer by layer, and following a nice curve around the forward beam mounts, for suspension arm clearance, giving me ott travel on the arms which can later be contained by the struts and bump stops. At this stage I'd rather have too much travel than not enuf ;)

Cheers Dave
It's nice to be important but it's more important to be nice !!

#99 User is offline   happy-kat 

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Posted 08 May 2010 - 07:19 PM

You have long winters up there ;)
How does scrutineering work when you build a car from scratch like this, is it a case of having these photos to proove what was done along the way? Or do they just check over the finished article?
I remember being scrutineered but obviously with a stock (ish) car it was over very quick.
<<<<<<< hillclimb pic
searching is fruitful | I'm a sponge not a mechanic | please do try that if stuck with a Puma problem whilst waiting for a reply | For the Puma fan this read 'The Inside Story Book' is very nice to own sometimes still seen for sale

#100 User is offline   volcomstone411 

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Posted 08 May 2010 - 09:54 PM

should save up your money a little bit and drive over to sweden with us in jan feb time. Its really really awesome. THE place to shakedown a car. With little traction you find every problem. And binning it is no biggy, just a tow out. I'm taking my puma me thinks.
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