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Some Help Needed For A New Puma Owner Rate Topic: -----

#1 User is offline   TurboJ 

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Posted 04 January 2014 - 11:02 AM

I bought a '98 Puma 1.7 just a couple of days ago, and it's in pretty OK condition given the local market in Finland and the car's age.

I am a automotive professional (I deal with car spare parts for a living) and a life-long car enthusiast, doing my own mainteanance and performance mods etc since 1999.
But the Puma has some unusual features and there I hope you guys can help me out...

I know there would probably be answers to some of my questions if I searched the forum thoroughly for a few hours, but... Easier to ask and get opinions for all the right questions right away.

-The heater is acting up, but it's not the usual 'stuck to whatever temp' issue. The temp can be adjusted, but it takes minutes for the heat to change and there's not enough heat even at max setting.
Car has manual air conditioning. Is this the heat control valve or more likely the control unit in the instrument panel?

-The headlights are regrettably bad. I fitted some Osram Night Breakers in there, but I didn't notice much improvement. The full beams are quite OK, but the dipped beams are almost dangerous.
I even gave the headlight plastic covers the 'Turtle treatment' (headlight rejuveniting kit or whatever) and the covers are now clear and look fine. I'm not sure how these lense-style lights work,
are there still regular reflectors inside? I'm wondering because I can't see any, and so I can't tell if it's just the reflectors that have oxidated to cause this problem.

-There is a slight stutter (very small, but noticeable to a trained person) when accelerating between 2000-3000 rpm. It doesn't feel like anything engine-related, so I'm guessing it could be a driveshaft out-of-balance issue. I'm hoping some of
you have the same experience so you can tell me what would be the most likely cause for this.

-The engine mounts also feel a little tired - I'm curious about how twitchy the car is normally with throttle on/off. It is definitely a little jerky as the engine moves along, but the movements are quite small, which leaves this question.
I feel ike I have to be especially careful when coming off the throttle so as not to get the 'jerk' but the movements themselves don't feel that big. Your thoughts? Also, will regular Fiesta mounts work on the Puma or are they supposed
to be a harder compound?

-I have to do a cam belt soon as well - I take it that the tool kit is not available or that it's at least very expensive? Also, what's the thing with valve clearance adjustment - does this engine really not have hydraulic lifters? On the service leaflet
Ford says the valves need adjusting every 150 000 km. What's the deal here?

-The engine has already done 190 000 km (115 000 miles). How much these can normally take? I'm trying to weigh my options about servicing this one as a low-mileage engine costs less than 300 €.

-Can you still get original road springs for the Puma somewhere? I can get shock absorbers where I work, but no springs. And I definitely do not want to get any lowering springs. The front ones are quite rusty so I'm anticipating they
need to be changed some time. Original or good quality after market items, if you know I source, please let me know.

I hope you can help me with these little things. Thank you so much for all your help!

This post has been edited by TurboJ: 04 January 2014 - 11:09 AM


#2 User is offline   Dogsbody 

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Posted 04 January 2014 - 12:04 PM

Welcome to the club and wow what a list :roflmao:/>

Heater problem will be the heater control valve under the bonnet with 4 hoses on it.
Very occasionally it will be the heater control panel control knob.

Headlights the Puma's Achilles heel, can be sorted with a HID conversion. Illegal in the UK, but not a MOT failure. I have had them for around 6 years now. Go for 5000 or 6000k colour, brilliant white.

Unplug the battery for 30 minutes and reset the ECU, works with mine sorting out any corruptions which can cause a stutter. (make sure you have the radio code)

Worm bushes etc can be an issue with a car thats 10+ years old. Power flex polly bushes in the rear beam are a good upgrade.

Make sure you keep it topped up with the correct grade oil and check filters etc.

Cam clearance is shimmed.

Any bits you need second hand, can be got from Ian who owns this forum.
He breaks Puma's as a business.

Next !!!
MK4 XR3i
Mk3 XR3i
R Reg 1.7 Puma
T Reg 1.7 Lux Puma
Now its Racing Puma 072

Graham

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#3 User is offline   TurboJ 

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Posted 04 January 2014 - 02:34 PM

Thanks!

What do you guys think about the engine's longevity? Of course these are all individuals as they are so old, but how long does this 1.7 normally serve you?

One more thing: Can someone tell me where are all the door card mounting screws located and how many there are? Driver's door card is loose at the back...

#4 User is offline   Dogsbody 

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Posted 04 January 2014 - 02:48 PM

Over 100,000 miles with no problem provided they have regular oil changes and cam belts.
Generally treated will.

Mine ran up on the rolling road at 6 bhp over what a FRP was advertised as producing when new at 90,000 miles.
Bore wear will be minimal on a 1.7 as it has nickasil liners.
MK4 XR3i
Mk3 XR3i
R Reg 1.7 Puma
T Reg 1.7 Lux Puma
Now its Racing Puma 072

Graham

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#5 User is offline   happy-kat 

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Posted 04 January 2014 - 06:22 PM

There is a cam belt change article in the Wiki, not for the faint hearted or unskilled.
Plenty Pumas running high miles but they need regular care I think to make it, the 1.7 hates running low/out on oil.
The headlights also need corect alignment to get the best from them, the wiki has a guide on cleaning the inside of them.
As Graham mentioned above, bushes will be tired now.
Shocks are available still from Ford, can't see why any different for your country.
Puma has a slight (very slight) flat spot at approx 2800 rpm, maybe you are feeling this. FRPs it is more noticeable in. When coasting you can feel a slight hesitancy.
Are there any fault codes found on a reader?
searching is fruitful | I'm a sponge not a mechanic | The Wiki is cool, please do check there if stuck with a Puma problem whilst waiting for a reply | For the Puma fan this read 'The Inside Story Book' is very nice to own link coming soon

#6 User is offline   V4FRP 

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Posted 05 January 2014 - 10:11 AM

View PostTurboJ, on 04 January 2014 - 02:34 PM, said:

Thanks!

What do you guys think about the engine's longevity? Of course these are all individuals as they are so old, but how long does this 1.7 normally serve you?

One more thing: Can someone tell me where are all the door card mounting screws located and how many there are? Driver's door card is loose at the back...

Door crd screws are three in total. One behind the door handle in the cup thing, be careful removing the cup as they are very delicate pull the handle towards you when removing. Number two screw is in the centre of the door card and requires a star screw driver. Number three is in the centre of the glove box thing the card is then held on by a number of plastic fasteners that just pull apart and will need replacing and be careful as the wing mirror and window control wiring will still be attached. Hope that helps.

#7 User is offline   TurboJ 

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Posted 07 January 2014 - 01:26 PM

Thank you so much guys!

There is vibration from the driveline between 2000 and 300o but it's not limited to 2800 rpm and doesn't feel every time I accelerate, only occasionally. The feeling is the same that you get on some cars that have dropped their drive shaft balancing weights...
Engine fault codes I haven't checked yet - I don't actually have a reader because I normally deal with older cars that don't have OBD yet...

Shock absorbers - yes, I know you can get those, I can get Sachs brand at my work place. But I'm wondering if you can get good SPRINGS in original spec, perhaps not paying the factory price for them. I don't want to buy lowering springs because the Puma
handles perfect as it is.

The cam belt service - I am definitely not unskilled - I build my cars from ground up and the only thing I am not skilled in is gearbox repair. But I understand the 1.7 cam service requires special tools to do correctly - maybe I am mistaken though? A local official Ford
shop quotes 330 € for thecam belt job which sounds like a good price when counting in the tool costs if I did it myself..

The engine and gearbox mounts - they are the same shape and design as Fiesta ones, but can someone confirm that they are indeed Fiesta items, or was the Puma fitted with harder rubber compound on these mounts?

Thanks again!

This post has been edited by TurboJ: 07 January 2014 - 01:28 PM


#8 User is offline   happy-kat 

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Posted 07 January 2014 - 02:07 PM

Hi
Take a read of the cam belt wiki guide, you can make your own tools and it is possible to change the belt with out a locking bar as long as you know what you are doing and how it all works, the VCT is the bit that can throw people too as they get the tension aspect wrong.
Why not buy a second hand pair of shocks from a low mileage Puma as an idea?
Ian G (site owner) breaks Pumas.
searching is fruitful | I'm a sponge not a mechanic | The Wiki is cool, please do check there if stuck with a Puma problem whilst waiting for a reply | For the Puma fan this read 'The Inside Story Book' is very nice to own link coming soon

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