Pumapeople: Fitting External Temp Sensor & Fiesta Ghia X Clock - Pumapeople

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Fitting External Temp Sensor & Fiesta Ghia X Clock

#1 User is offline   FlashBastd 

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Posted 06 December 2008 - 09:47 PM

Hi, just got around to fitting the external temp sensor and posh clock, here is what I did;

The parts you need are;

Fiesta Ghia X clock, with temp function
Ford temp probe (high spec Granada / Scorpio / Focus / Mondeo Mk1 & 2, all Mondeo Mk3, or the Fiesta the clock came out of), ideally with as long of a length of wiring beyond the plug as possible, and the clip to mount the plug.
Approx 5m twin core cable
Computer audio connector
Length of wire coathanger
Black duct tape
Torx screwdrivers
10mm socket
Crimp connectors
Computer audio connection (see below)
Cable ties

Preparation;

Remove the stereo and pop out your existing clock, you will notice that the plug is quite chunky. Remove the white plastic cover from the back of your new clock and enlarge the hole, a dremmel is ideal, but I did it with a stanley knife and pair of wire cutters.

Connect the 5m of cable to the temp sensor, I used crimp connectors and wrapped up the wiring with insulating tape.

When you look at the connectors on the back of the new clock, you will see there are 6 pins together as per your existing clock, and two pins on their own for the temp sensor. What I did was take the new clock to Maplin and look for computer audio connections that looked as though they would fit. I bought three different ones, took them home, and as the first one fitted well, returned the others. As you only need the plug with a length of wire stemming from it, snip the plug from the other end.

Take your temp sensor and temporarily connect to the new clock and plug into the cars wiring to make sure it works, if it does - positive eBay feedback, if not, check your connections, then contact the seller.

Right, so we know it all works, connect time to fit it.

1. remove front numberplate


2. remove lower grille (tabs along the top and bottom, be careful, some will break)

3. Disconnect negative terminal of battery (10mm socket)

4. Open bonnet, remove top of airbox, disconnecting MAF from loom and ducting to throttle body

5. Remove upper grille (two torx)

6. Remove n/s headlamp (two torx and twist clip to inside front of headlamp to release rear catch.

7. Peel back rear insulating strip and remove engine bay fusebox lid (iirc 2 clips)

8. Unplug the two large plugs from the fusebox, this is only to make it a bit easier to get the temp sensor wiring through the grommet, along with the other wiring from the fusebox.

9. Release and open the wiring loom holder from the n/s of the engine bay - towards the rear of the engine bay this is held in place by a tie wrap with a push clip on it. If you are careful, you can snip a bit out and re-fit later with some more conventional tie wrap.

10. Remove and disconnect stereo

11. Remove and disconnect old clock

12. Peel back door rubber on n/s door to allow the carpet to be folded back, providing access to the kick panel area


13. mount temp sensor, if you look behind the bumper to the o/s of where the numberplate mounts you will see a rectangular slot, this is the OE location for the temp sensor. I mounted the sensor here then clipped the sensor plug to the lower edge of the slam panel.


14. run the wiring up to the top of the panel behind the bumper and then through the space in the panel to the headlamp area.


15. the wiring for the headlamp and MAF runs through a tidy cover. Undo the clip and one end and the tape at the other, and fix the wiring inside it, before replacing the clip and using the duct tape to re-fix the other end of the cost.

16. the wiring then runs up the inside of the wing, through a wiring cover, run the new wiring through this, then into the upper fusebox from the left hand end, where you will see an opening.

17. check and secure your wiring so far with tie wraps, at this stage you can refit the wiring cover along the side of the engine bay.

18. take the coathanger, straighten it, and using the duct tape fix the end of the wire to it. Make sure the end isn't sharp, using the duct tape to blunt / soften it to avoid damaging the existing wiring.


19. using the coathanger, ease the wiring down through the grommet into the cabin of the car.

20. reach up behind the edge of the glovebox and hopefully find the wiring. Remove the duct tape and extract the coathanger. Pull through any excess wiring.

21. you should have plenty of wire in the cabin now, so it is as good a time as any to connect the plug to the wiring.

22. route the wiring to the back of the clock area, connect to the new clock and connect the car loom to the clock. You can refit the clock now, but don't refit the stereo until we know it works.

23. refit airbox, connect ducting to MAF, reconnect loom to MAF

24. replace headlamp, don't forget to plug it in. Remember, two torx AND the twist clip.

25. reconnect the two large plugs in the engine bay fusebox, replace fusebox lid and the rubber sealing strip.

26. reconnect the battery


27. check that the temp clock works as it did when you initially checked it prior to installation.

28. refit stereo


29. set clock, stereo settings

30. refit grilles & numberplate

and I think that is about it!

This post has been edited by FlashBastd: 06 December 2008 - 09:48 PM

2005 Vauxhall VX220 Turbo
2000 Ford Focus 1.6i Ghia
2006 Renault Clio 2.0i RenaultSport 197 - SOLD
2005 Honda CR-V 2.0i Executive auto
2001 Ford Puma 1.7i Black

#2 User is offline   Spike 

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Posted 06 December 2008 - 10:31 PM

interesting. can you display clock & temp at same time?

#3 User is offline   FlashBastd 

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Posted 06 December 2008 - 10:39 PM

No, one or the other. You switch using the green illuminated button on the right, which is also the alarm light.
2005 Vauxhall VX220 Turbo
2000 Ford Focus 1.6i Ghia
2006 Renault Clio 2.0i RenaultSport 197 - SOLD
2005 Honda CR-V 2.0i Executive auto
2001 Ford Puma 1.7i Black

#4 User is offline   BOK 

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Posted 06 December 2008 - 10:46 PM

Great thanks for those instructions good.gif

Always find it strange that Ford didn't fit this and the glovebox light to their £17k Puma but fitted it to a £12k Fiesta Ghia rolleyes.gif

#5 User is offline   FlashBastd 

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Posted 06 December 2008 - 10:55 PM

QUOTE (BOK @ Dec 6 2008, 10:46 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Great thanks for those instructions good.gif

Always find it strange that Ford didn't fit this and the glovebox light to their £17k Puma but fitted it to a £12k Fiesta Ghia rolleyes.gif


Yes, quite. Given that there is the slot in the front panel, it (temp sensor) must have been in the product plan at some time, but both were probably the victim of cost cutting, as was the second boot lamp.

Never understood why either Puma or Fiesta had provision for a second boot lamp - AFAIK the utilised position isn't territory specific.

Having now done the glovebox lamp, second boot lamp and the temp clock, what else am I missing?

This post has been edited by FlashBastd: 06 December 2008 - 10:56 PM

2005 Vauxhall VX220 Turbo
2000 Ford Focus 1.6i Ghia
2006 Renault Clio 2.0i RenaultSport 197 - SOLD
2005 Honda CR-V 2.0i Executive auto
2001 Ford Puma 1.7i Black

#6 User is offline   Dogsbody 

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Posted 06 December 2008 - 11:02 PM

Front Fog lights wink.gif
MK4 XR3i
Mk3 XR3i
R Reg 1.7 Puma
T Reg 1.7 Lux Puma
Now its Racing Puma 072

Graham

Posted Image

#7 User is offline   FlashBastd 

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Posted 06 December 2008 - 11:06 PM

Yeah, but I am not really fond of the aftermarket look, and having had front fogs on pretty much every car I have had for the past 12 years, and seldom if ever needed to use them, they are one accessory I can probably live without. Retrofitted them to the old E30, but only because there was a neat OE solution, and they came along quite cheaply.

Am thinking about using the extra button blank for front parking sensors, not sure yet though.

Having said I don't like the aftermarket look, the possibility of fitting a pair of round spots in the lower grille might look good...
2005 Vauxhall VX220 Turbo
2000 Ford Focus 1.6i Ghia
2006 Renault Clio 2.0i RenaultSport 197 - SOLD
2005 Honda CR-V 2.0i Executive auto
2001 Ford Puma 1.7i Black

#8 User is offline   BOK 

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Posted 06 December 2008 - 11:12 PM

QUOTE (FlashBastd @ Dec 6 2008, 10:55 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Having now done the glovebox lamp, second boot lamp and the temp clock, what else am I missing?


The smarter black Fiesta dials and less tacky black interior dash trim etc... stickpoke.gif wink.gif

And maybe a sunroof and some Puma Ghia badges... ph34r.gif

#9 User is offline   FlashBastd 

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Posted 06 December 2008 - 11:16 PM

Planning on painting a new stereo surround silver, so that will help.

What about a wood effect dash?

Sunroof would be nice.

[whisper it] did consider Ghia badges, but decided Titanium Sport would be more the current thing. Soon decided against it anyhow!

You bored with the white dials now, after 3 of them?
2005 Vauxhall VX220 Turbo
2000 Ford Focus 1.6i Ghia
2006 Renault Clio 2.0i RenaultSport 197 - SOLD
2005 Honda CR-V 2.0i Executive auto
2001 Ford Puma 1.7i Black

#10 User is offline   eldoodarino 

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Posted 06 December 2008 - 11:32 PM

QUOTE (FlashBastd @ Dec 6 2008, 11:06 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Am thinking about using the extra button blank for front parking sensors, not sure yet though.


the blank is the perfect place for a Nitrous arming switch.. cool.gif

biggrin.gif

just to 'nit pick' a point... that clock would have come from a Ghia not Ghia X... Ghia X was scrapped near the end of Mk4 (98/99) as it was too expensive and they just put all the xtras on the ghia instead...

so the clock would have been fitted to the Ghia Facelift versions only around 2000... (known as MK5)... smile.gif

This post has been edited by eldoodarino: 06 December 2008 - 11:35 PM

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#11 User is offline   BOK 

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Posted 06 December 2008 - 11:33 PM

QUOTE (FlashBastd @ Dec 6 2008, 11:16 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
You bored with the white dials now, after 3 of them?


Not bored, they are sooo late 90s and they glare excessively at night.

I have a set of black Fiesta dials going in next week, with red lighting...can't wait to be able to be able to see on an unlit lane at night without sheilding the dials with my hand cool.gif

#12 User is offline   eldoodarino 

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Posted 06 December 2008 - 11:36 PM

i better make sure i get the resistance right then... laugh.gif
Wizards Of Nos 60hp progressive delivery.... yeah baby yeah :-o
Denso Iridium Plugs
Helix Clutch
Mobil 1


#13 User is offline   BOK 

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Posted 06 December 2008 - 11:41 PM

QUOTE (eldoodarino @ Dec 6 2008, 11:36 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
i better make sure i get the resistance right then... laugh.gif


Please smile.gif
Hope it's all going to plan Mr. Eldood wink.gif

#14 User is offline   FlashBastd 

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Posted 07 December 2008 - 11:17 AM

QUOTE (eldoodarino @ Dec 6 2008, 11:32 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
the blank is the perfect place for a Nitrous arming switch.. cool.gif

biggrin.gif

just to 'nit pick' a point... that clock would have come from a Ghia not Ghia X... Ghia X was scrapped near the end of Mk4 (98/99) as it was too expensive and they just put all the xtras on the ghia instead...

so the clock would have been fitted to the Ghia Facelift versions only around 2000... (known as MK5)... smile.gif



Well... I had a 98 'S' 1.4 Ghia X (pre-facelift, huge disappointment compared with zingy 1.25, replaced with RS2000 4x4) and that had it. Had pretty much everything except leather, so I guess it depends on how old your temp clock is.
2005 Vauxhall VX220 Turbo
2000 Ford Focus 1.6i Ghia
2006 Renault Clio 2.0i RenaultSport 197 - SOLD
2005 Honda CR-V 2.0i Executive auto
2001 Ford Puma 1.7i Black

#15 User is offline   eldoodarino 

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Posted 07 December 2008 - 02:12 PM

I bought a brand new Ghia X in 98 1.4 ... the 1.4 is a bit more of a cruiser than the 'round the town' 1.2..on longer Jorneys on the motorway, it feels superb to drive!... iv'e got a V reg one now... and think the 1.4 has been midly tuned so as not to make it too sporty.... i think with a dufferent map, like the blufin or dreamscience it would a lot more nippy.... it's almost like the car is in 'old man' mode until you get past 3.5k revs and then it picks up significantly better....

oh back to the topic... both MK4's iv owned havn't had the temp clock.... so i'm pretty sure it was a 2000-2001 spec item...

Chris

This post has been edited by eldoodarino: 07 December 2008 - 02:13 PM

Wizards Of Nos 60hp progressive delivery.... yeah baby yeah :-o
Denso Iridium Plugs
Helix Clutch
Mobil 1


#16 User is offline   poggy 

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Posted 07 December 2008 - 03:16 PM

Great instructions.
Been looking at doing this since I got the car, especially after all the bad weather & noooooo temp sensor.
Do you remember what the Maplin part number is for the connector, (just so I don't have to go through the same experience of returning unwanted etc etc
Thanks in advance but no probs if you can't remember



#17 User is offline   GTiR23 

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Posted 07 December 2008 - 04:55 PM

Just did this to my Fiesta Zetec S today, nice mod in my opinion, mine was also reading 5 Deg C today.

#18 User is offline   poggy 

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  Posted 10 December 2008 - 02:29 PM

May sound daft but has anyone who has retrofitted a temp sensor calibrated it?
I ask because I am seriously looking at doing this mod but when I have installed thermocouples at work, (basically same thing as a temp sensor), I have had to use a temperature compensating cable. Has anyone used this kind of cable in the installation or just used basic 2 core copper strand??
Seems daft to go to all the trouble of fitting if it gives the wrong temp reading??
Any comments guys?



#19 User is offline   FlashBastd 

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Posted 10 December 2008 - 06:19 PM

AFAIK there is no way of recalibrating. I have used standard 5am copper strand, and the reading is the same, or within 1C of our CRV, which had one fitted from new. When I had my Mondeo there was often minor variation between that and the Honda, so I reckon it is there or thereabouts.

As for the connection I used, I had meant to keep the packaging, but it would appear to have been chucked. Also can't find the damn receipt. It had been my intention to put it in the guide above, but I didn't have it to hand at the time.
2005 Vauxhall VX220 Turbo
2000 Ford Focus 1.6i Ghia
2006 Renault Clio 2.0i RenaultSport 197 - SOLD
2005 Honda CR-V 2.0i Executive auto
2001 Ford Puma 1.7i Black

#20 User is offline   poggy 

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  Posted 10 December 2008 - 07:06 PM

QUOTE (FlashBastd @ Dec 10 2008, 06:19 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
AFAIK there is no way of recalibrating. I have used standard 5am copper strand, and the reading is the same, or within 1C of our CRV, which had one fitted from new. When I had my Mondeo there was often minor variation between that and the Honda, so I reckon it is there or thereabouts.

As for the connection I used, I had meant to keep the packaging, but it would appear to have been chucked. Also can't find the damn receipt. It had been my intention to put it in the guide above, but I didn't have it to hand at the time.


Thanks. I'll fit mine when the weather gets better!!!!
But don't suppose i'll need it for a while after, will use copper but may have a word with our Electrical Project Engineer when I get back to work, (not doubting u for 1 min tho).
Great guide will fit exactly the same way.

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