Pumapeople: My Turn To Attempt The Challenging - Pumapeople

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My Turn To Attempt The Challenging beating the rust, my progress thread Rate Topic: -----

#261 User is offline   happy-kat 

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Posted 25 May 2012 - 09:17 PM

Full write up to come over the weekend with more pictures of rust and progress.
The end result.
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Bling enough :woot:
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#262 User is offline   eldoodarino 

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Posted 26 May 2012 - 07:01 AM

Awesome Kate...just need to drop the engine now and give that a good scrub..

:bleh: :bleh:
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#263 User is offline   ScubaSteve 

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Posted 26 May 2012 - 09:18 AM

good work

#264 User is offline   happy-kat 

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Posted 26 May 2012 - 06:12 PM

Several coats of Dymax UB on the front arch areas.
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Also cleaned up and treated the horn with Hydrate 80 for the rust and then the Dymax UB.
If this was a mroe road facing area I would have applied 4 to 5 coats rather than the 2 or might have been 3.
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This lower area got 3 coats though.
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Found rust on the inside of the mesh so treated that after a clean up with Hydrate 80.
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Did the exposed bits of te underside too.
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Spraed Dymax S-50 into the seam of the subframe and moved the beam around to get it to run all along the seam end to end.
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Rear beam previously done matches the front.
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Took two evenings to put it all back together, was nNot torqued up but Olly's garage is only a short distance away so drove there last night and Olly did a thorough job check on the ramp and did the final torque up.
Olly has been looking after my FRP since Feb 2002 and before that he had been looking after 0042 and had met Peter Beattie so luckly for me I can still use Olly as he is so close and is a right petrol head. Whilst I have also used Alan at Pumabuild some jobs are too far away for the distance.
With the support of Steve (thank you) using these was deffinately worth it because the subframe can be nothing other then in the right place. Whilst on the ramp I double checked the pins still went in.
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All back together and torqued up. Olly possing, thankfully his mechanical skills are much better then his photogenic ;)
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Owen Garages Haywards Heath.
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#265 User is offline   eldoodarino 

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Posted 27 May 2012 - 06:17 PM

Lower strut brace Kate...is it worth it?? am considering it.. :ph34r:
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#266 User is offline   happy-kat 

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Posted 27 May 2012 - 06:52 PM

Deffinately. First time it was fitted noticed an instant tightnss to the feel on roundabouts.
This is a rare one I have as it actually fits and does not foul anything.

I have one vibration issue, comes in about 4250 revs if flooring it and certainly hear it after that when letting off.
It is on the NSF and the only thing I can think of that might cause a vibration noise is the ball joint heat shield.
The other fixings arround that front arch area are plastic and I can't see how a plastic cable fixing would cause that level of vibration noise.
It is nothing in my glove box.
Steering and feel are spot on and car feel as it did before if not tighter.
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#267 User is offline   happy-kat 

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Posted 30 May 2012 - 08:03 PM

I'd say give careful consideration to droping the sub frame, escpecially if in a rush. I am not in a hurry and would do the job again as for my plans it had to happen and I have the time to sort things out.
Olly is being peristent but so far the very noisey assumed touch vibration is being more persistent.
Dropping and installing the sub frame has caused existing pipes and/or cables to be moved from their exact original positions.
It might just be my very stiff car, but anyway I now have a vibration to track down and stop that has so far survived two further fettles.
We have plans on what to try next, but wanted to share that if you do the same job you may not get everything back without a new vibration.
Car drives really precisely so the job has not affected handling that I have observed and it looks proper bling too, lol.
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#268 User is offline   eldoodarino 

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Posted 30 May 2012 - 08:59 PM

:blink: too late, half way through it now..lol

the plastic housing that the steering linkage goes through isn't vibrating is it..??? that a bugger for taking on noise from the FRP heatsheilds with even a slight touch...can make some very strange noises.. :blink:

why don't you try taking the brace off untill the noise is isolated then fit again later..?

The FRP manifold is a bugger for noise issues...the heatsheilds just arn't designed for it, ideally it should of had a custom made one.. :blink:

Chris
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#269 User is offline   happy-kat 

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Posted 30 May 2012 - 09:10 PM

Steering linkage is a suspect area already, so thank you for the tip, will add that to the list. Brake pipes are another as they run up the car as this particlar noise is on the passneger side.
Have made sure everything is correctly torqued so it is not something loose obvious.
searching is fruitful | I'm a sponge not a mechanic | The Wiki is cool, please do check there if stuck with a Puma problem whilst waiting for a reply | For the Puma fan this read 'The Inside Story Book' is very nice to own link coming soon

#270 User is offline   eldoodarino 

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Posted 31 May 2012 - 07:50 AM

airbox pipes are a bugger for vibrating too against the chassis
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#271 User is offline   happy-kat 

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Posted 19 August 2012 - 10:56 AM

Before going to Germany needed to both touch up the few scrathes on my subframe and fix an annoying driver's door rattle.
Stuck my car back on my ramps and touched up where the subframe had been marked, had some Toyota Red tocuh up in the garage so used that. Not perfect but I was going to be too peed off if I got rust on it.
Next onto the door.
Had a few issues removing one of the door fixings, the plastic decorative lug on top was a pig to remove.
The main fixings lined up.
The 8 lugs holding the door card to the door were very tight and took some pulling to pop out.
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Various images of the power blocks for the mirror and windows.
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All removed down to the door skin.
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The plastic fixing clip holding this electrical lug was the rattle culprit. Gave it a rough tape up and went out for a drive to double check.
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The area ringed these cable had sod all flex/give so I was limited in how much taping I could do. I used some pipe lagging that I thinned down to act as a brace and then gaffer tape to secure it.
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Job finished.
Finsihed taped up door rattle.
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The door now only has a minor rattle attributed to the glass and I can't do much about that.
searching is fruitful | I'm a sponge not a mechanic | The Wiki is cool, please do check there if stuck with a Puma problem whilst waiting for a reply | For the Puma fan this read 'The Inside Story Book' is very nice to own link coming soon

#272 User is offline   happy-kat 

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Posted 08 February 2016 - 09:13 PM

Seeing this I should add the damm door is rattling again!
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#273 User is offline   happy-kat 

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Posted 21 November 2016 - 10:15 PM

Reading this again reminded me I should also have treated the inside of the doors with S-50.
Jobs never stop really.
searching is fruitful | I'm a sponge not a mechanic | The Wiki is cool, please do check there if stuck with a Puma problem whilst waiting for a reply | For the Puma fan this read 'The Inside Story Book' is very nice to own link coming soon

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