Overfuelling Puma
#1
Posted 06 March 2008 - 08:57 AM
#2
Posted 06 March 2008 - 12:13 PM
suspect cats are being contaminated with fuel - however mpg is still good and there is no 'black soot' around the tailpipe
i've also been plugged into a ford diagnostic - found no fault except the cat last time
could be worn piston rings - not sure if this would show up on the diagnostic
had a new oem frp cat fitted last year - it's already hit co2 emissions limit after 20K miles in one year - just passed (ie limit 0.3 actual 0.3!!!)
This post has been edited by PG12: 06 March 2008 - 12:17 PM
#3
Posted 06 March 2008 - 12:41 PM
Excess fuel or unburnt fuel going into the cat would be far more forgiving on the cat than burnt oil would be. A hot cat is fairly resistant to fuel deposits getting in as these burn off fairly easily..... Perhaps your Cat isn't heating up properly?.... exhaust temp low?...... (am not a mechanic!! so these are just educated ideas)
Any blue smoke out of the exhaust?
#4
Posted 06 March 2008 - 01:07 PM
#5
Posted 06 March 2008 - 03:40 PM
im guessing the best place to start would be to check the exhaust fumes...should i do this with the engine hot or cold?
i really hope its not a case of sticking a £500 cat on as i do around 20k miles a year
#6
Posted 06 March 2008 - 04:13 PM
im guessing the best place to start would be to check the exhaust fumes...should i do this with the engine hot or cold?
i really hope its not a case of sticking a £500 cat on as i do around 20k miles a year
if its over fueling it could be the air filter needs replacing and is blocked, check when it was last changed. or use it as an excuse to get a performance panel filter to let more air in.
#7
Posted 06 March 2008 - 09:52 PM
The puma is mapped to be richer at starting due to the fact that:
1) at startup crank, the speed of crank means that the engine cant suck in sufficient amounts of air, so it makes up for it by adding a richer injector cycle (more fuel)
2)Ecu will be putting more fuel in to help allow the engine reach optimum operating temps, and to meet the demand of auxilary systems. This is known as a fast idle, which is why the car will rev higher when first started. All this means more fuel for the car.
The puma 1.7 ecu has no fueling after closed throttle, so the suggestion of wetwalling, or piston cooling above, is not due to this i would say. The engine determines this primarlily by the throttle position sensor....i suggest you check that this is working correctly. there is a way to do this, by taking it off and moving it manually. but this will just adjust the injection of fuel and not be letting added air into the engine which would make it momentarily very very lean.
If you are really concerned suggest going to a dyno, as they will be able to tell you if your fuel ratio and curve is good.
on the graph below you will be able to see the graph at the bottom, starts of on the scale on the left at 14.7:1 (stoichmeteric) and then leans off as the car is pulling. up the rev band. Its important to remember that the car under load, i.e. driving may fuel different to that of just revving it sat on your dirve.
IM pretty sure that the cats failing is abnormal. Ive had my puma for quite a while, and even decat and substatially modded i can still get through mot emissions test. So i suspect that there is probably one fo the following failing:
1) Primarily maf (as the ecu, when these fails uses a set of preprogrammed failsafe lookup tables, which at a glance look like leaning towards the rich side, probably for safety)
2) Throttle position sensor
3) ICV, or certainly its air supply through throttle body
4) Inlet Air Temp sensor
5) Abnormally high fuel pressure...a poorly setup power boost valve could be causing this
I would check these first. Failing that it could be a lambda sensor but...im sure that most pumas have 2 of them, so i woulda thaught the likely hood of two failing would be unlikely.
If it were me, i would goto a dyno with the ability to do a diagnostic too. This way you can find out exactly what is wrong, and probably gain a bit of drivability and maybe power from a properly runing motor.
Hope my wittering helps
This post has been edited by volcomstone411: 06 March 2008 - 09:53 PM
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#8
Posted 06 March 2008 - 10:32 PM
hmm, interesting - had a piper panel air filter fitted a couple of years ago - cleaned/oiled every 20k miles
i've had 2 £500 cats fitted since - perhaps too much dirt retention oil sprayed on the filter? - wouldn't any issues with air intake have been detected during the ford diagnostic i had?
had a look at the exhaust - the tailpipe bar is coated in black 'soot' - might go back to the oem filter - see what happens
This post has been edited by PG12: 06 March 2008 - 11:52 PM
#9
Posted 07 March 2008 - 08:53 AM
#10
Posted 07 March 2008 - 12:15 PM
http://www.fpuk.co.uk/pdfs/catalytic%20con...cal%20guide.pdf
(i) Failure of an emission control device (lambda sensor).
(ii) Failure of an engine management system component (ECU, Injectors, EMS
sensor etc).
(iii) Basic maintenance (plugs, filters leads) requiring attention.
(iv) Any engine that is operating “out of tune†can potentially damage a catalytic
converter.
going to replace my piper panel filter with an oem
An engine that is operating inefficiently due to general wear (low compressions, burning
oil etc) will result in converter failure.
This post has been edited by PG12: 07 March 2008 - 12:17 PM
#11
Posted 07 March 2008 - 01:12 PM
#12
Posted 07 March 2008 - 01:50 PM
#13
Posted 07 March 2008 - 07:16 PM
Need to speak to a mechanic on this but main damage would be to piston rings, lambda 02 sensor and cat.
It could also contribute to pinking as if its injection spraypattern is somehow too long then it would inject after exhaust valves closed and it would wet wall, where the cylinder and valves get a lining of hot fuel. this would mean that the car under pressure and heat could accidently ignite, or prematurely ignit causing pinking (knocking), and its a loud audible sound like a tin can being hit on the side by a spanner. If the car doesn do this at any point i would stop driving it, as the reverberation through the conrods and pistons could cause terminal damage.
I also found out if you car isnt getting a good spark then fuel may remain unignited. Loss of performance would be the best sign. Check plugs are clean and if you can get a new coilpack and leads i would. Also take coilpack off and make sure there is good contact on the contact plate underneath.
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