[bouncy]

Dave2302, on 22 April 2010 - 08:09 PM, said:

Hi Lee,

Just picked up on this, lovely lookin car, its a credit to ya.

Whatever you do throw those std Ford diff brg cones in the bin and use solid shims. They are no good for a high torque box lol, they allow the diff to float.

Cheers Dave

Cheers Dave for info.

I thought the cones (belville washers)were for the end float and were squashed flat once you tighten the casings. Wasnt this fords setup to allow for bearing and diff machineing differences. I agree that solid shims is best and im gunna ring around and see if I can get some shims!!!

Thanks for thumbs up on car!!!

[Dave2302]

I thought the cones (belville washers)were for the end float and were squashed flat once you tighten the casings. Wasnt this fords setup to allow for bearing and diff machineing differences. I agree that solid shims is best and im gunna ring around and see if I can get some shims!!!



Lee,

"Belville Washers" woo hoo, havent heard anyone use their correct name for a long while lololol !!

Yes that was the "idea" lol, but it never worked that well in practice on higher torque motors.

This was one of the reasons for so many blown up RS Turbo diffs in the "good old days" lol.

Solid is def the way to go for peace of mind and a nice tight diff that will STAY that way.

Cheers Dave

[FlashBastd]

bouncy, on 21 April 2010 - 02:11 PM, said:

The bearing numbers are LM29711/Q with LM29749Q and BT1B329149/Q with BT1-0017A/Q these are the inner bearing and outer cage numbers, just give your brg supplier these numbers and they can get them, SKF of course!!!!

Hi, sorry to be a pain, but could you double check the outer cage number for the second bearing, I can't seem to find it anywhere.

TVM!

[bouncy]

FlashBastd, on 23 April 2010 - 02:46 PM, said:

Hi, sorry to be a pain, but could you double check the outer cage number for the second bearing, I can't seem to find it anywhere.

TVM!

Those are the right numbers, However they are more expensive at an engineers.

Try these numbers instead. Timkin Bearing number NP355857 / NP618892 and a KLM29711C / KLM29749C.
Ring your brg supplier and see what he can do them for. I tried the SKF and they were more money than Ford was supplying them for. So I ordered them from Ford and guess what................Timkin bearings in the boxes. So will be interesting to see what sort of money they are. Fords were £44.00 plus VAT for the pair. The SKF bearings were £50.00

[FlashBastd]

Thanks, I will look into it.

A local transmission place quoted me £150 to fit one in a used Puma 'box, can't imagine it would be any more to fit in a FRP 'box, though I do want a 3.82 crown wheel to be fitted. Looking at the cost of the parts, etc. (new bearings, crownwheel bolts, etc.) that sounds quite cheap.

[bouncy]

FlashBastd, on 23 April 2010 - 03:33 PM, said:

Thanks, I will look into it.

A local transmission place quoted me £150 to fit one in a used Puma 'box, can't imagine it would be any more to fit in a FRP 'box, though I do want a 3.82 crown wheel to be fitted. Looking at the cost of the parts, etc. (new bearings, crownwheel bolts, etc.) that sounds quite cheap.

Im fitting the 4.25 CW into mine, so if its no good blame Turby!!!

£150.00 sounds very reasonable,I think all my parts came to £100. if you need the speedo drive, Ive got a new one here if its a plastic one. The metal electronic one is only about £8.00 plus VAT.

[FlashBastd]

Looking at Microcat, even with my late car VIN entered, it appears to show two speedo drives, which I thought was odd. I assume only one will actually be there?

I will clarify with the company who quoted as to exactly what they do, new c/w bolts, etc.

[bouncy]

FlashBastd, on 23 April 2010 - 09:08 PM, said:

Looking at Microcat, even with my late car VIN entered, it appears to show two speedo drives, which I thought was odd. I assume only one will actually be there?

I will clarify with the company who quoted as to exactly what they do, new c/w bolts, etc.

There is only one fitted, you get a choice, if your speedo is electronic you need the metal drive, if its cable driven you need the plastic one.

[FlashBastd]

Makes more sense, thanks for clearing that up!

[Dave2302]

Here's a little tip guys,

Buy yr gearbox bearings from Royce Power Ltd, cheaper and they have all the odd ones that normal brg suppliers can't seem to get !!

HTH,

Dave

[bouncy]

Dave2302, on 24 April 2010 - 09:10 AM, said:

Here's a little tip guys,

Buy yr gearbox bearings from Royce Power Ltd, cheaper and they have all the odd ones that normal brg suppliers can't seem to get !!

HTH,

Dave

Cheers Dave, especially when ive just bought mine!!!!

[Dave2302]

Ah,

Soz

Dave

[keldsyke]

Hi all, I'm new here and have spent some time looking through the forums on here, it's great reading! Interesting thread this about the bearings as I'm having similar problems, I'm currently building an IB5 box with shotpeened gears and a Quaife ATB diff for someone. I'm having problems finding the bearing that goes on the end of the mainshaft ( the one with the race that goes on to the mainshaft ) the box is out of a Fiesta ST, I ordered this bearing from Ford and it is way to small ( 52.5mm to be exact ) the one in my box is around 65mm and the dealership are struggling to sort it. Can anyone point me in the right direction please??

Thanks

K

[bouncy]

Well finally got the gearbox built!!!!

Quite enjoyed doing it, easy when you know how

[volcomstone411]

on bearings, has anyone found anywhere that supplies ceramic bearings?

[keldsyke]

volcomstone411, on 30 April 2010 - 08:10 AM, said:

on bearings, has anyone found anywhere that supplies ceramic bearings?

Cerobear do ceramic bearings for World Rally Cars, they aren't cheap neither!! I think wheel bearings are £2000 a peice if I remember rightly.

[bouncy]

keldsyke, on 30 April 2010 - 08:42 AM, said:

Cerobear do ceramic bearings for World Rally Cars, they aren't cheap neither!! I think wheel bearings are £2000 a peice if I remember rightly.

Ummmmmm, think Ill pass on them then!!!

[keldsyke]

warrenpenalver, on 30 March 2010 - 09:13 PM, said:

You seen the price of them??

Ive been looking at prices for upgrading my box now 3rd has destroyed it self and its looking at £8k plus if i went down the dog engagement motorsport box route!! I think a recon standard box and turning down the boost is a better idea for the time being!!

A 5 Speed Sadev H pattern dog box that fits in the IB5 casing will cost around 4 - 5 k and that price includes the Plated LSD. Be warned with a dog box, you can break it within 100's of metres of using it. I've seen the damage and the bills!!

[bouncy]

Right Guys, Ive bought another car to convert into a track car, so the Puma will be for sale in a few months time.

If anyone is interested in it, please PM me to discuss it and I can send you the spec sheet. I can take parts off it to reduce the price, ie FRP front brakes (will put 300mm back on),Suspension coil overs, fire extinguisher plummed in kit, LC1 controller - you get the idea.

Car is fully road legal, dyno sheets available, still going to use it till its sold. I aint going to give it away as I dont need the money.

Ill get a list of parts also available, so if theres owt you need, PM me and ill see what ive got- ive got enough parts to build a complete car including a shell!!!

Thanks for reading

Bouncy!!!

Heres a little clip of it on track

teeside autodrome

This post has been edited by bouncy: 13 May 2010 - 10:37 PM

[bouncy]

Weve been playing with the car on the Dyno for the past week to see how much torque we can get.

We set it up increasing boost bit by bit and played with the mapping. We found that if we loose some hp it would gain more torque

We took it up to 0.9 bar boost giving 200hp and it kept there all the way from 2500 rpm to 6500 rpm, but the bloody torque went to 250 lbs ft and the car was trying to climb out of the rollers.

We then were going to turn the boost up and the NEW Turbo shat itself

Turbo now going back to suppliers for replacement.

So ill have another go in the next 2 weeks, but in the meantime going to fit the LC1 in the downpipe and tidy up the wiring!!!