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Wide Angle Trial VSCC Sprint

#1 User is offline   mort666 

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Posted 31 May 2009 - 09:28 PM

Evening all,

went to try out the new Tamron 11-18mm wide angle lens today and ended up at curborough sprint circuit near lichfield for a VSCC sprint event. The VSCC is the Vintage Sports Car Club. There was some very interesting machinery there and it was good to see them being used as they were originally intended and not tucked up in a museum smile.gif
Haven't had too long to sort through but here are some initial pictures from the wide angle lens. They are far from perfect, but I'm pretty pleased with the results. It's probably not the best lens for taking static shots of vehicles really(although I like how some of them have turned out), but it was fun seeing how close I could get to some of them and still fit the whole thing in smile.gif

I've tried a couple of HDR shots too.

Most of these haven't been cropped at all. I'll post more during the week if anyone is interested in seeing them in action etc. smile.gif

















By the way, that first car is an absolute Monster.........based around a 1929 8 litre Bentley but with a 24 litre Napier sea lion W12 engine fitted producing around 550 BHP (apparently). Yes, you read that right - 24 litre ohmy.gif
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#2 User is offline   3Ddunk 

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Posted 31 May 2009 - 09:31 PM

Wow looks good Paul, intresting cars
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#3 User is offline   pumapilot 

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Posted 31 May 2009 - 09:36 PM

QUOTE (mort666 @ May 31 2009, 10:28 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>


By the way, that first car is an absolute Monster.........based around a 1929 8 litre Bentley but with a 24 litre Napier sea lion W12 engine fitted producing around 550 BHP (apparently). Yes, you read that right - 24 litre.


One of the Goodwood revivals that i marshalled at, had this car there out racing.
It was the only car in our paddock that we never had to ask people to stand aside for - it was LOUD

Great pictures Paul.

This post has been edited by pumapilot: 31 May 2009 - 09:37 PM

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#4 User is offline   Matt & Tiggr MKIII 

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Posted 31 May 2009 - 09:45 PM

Superb photos Paul Love the way they have come out

Thats where Jessie's dad blew his engine up wink.gif

You have however got sensor dust. Big spec, middle top segment sad.gif
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#5 User is offline   mort666 

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Posted 31 May 2009 - 09:49 PM

thanks smile.gif

it was interesting seeing him trying to get that big bentley off the line. Lots of tyre smoke laugh.gif

quite a few of the cars were surprisingly quick too biggrin.gif

QUOTE (Matt & Tiggr MKIII @ May 31 2009, 10:45 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
You have however got sensor dust. Big spec, middle top segment sad.gif


sad.gif yep, noticed that on quite a few of the pictures as I've been looking through them. I'll have to get some cleaning stuff sorted out and fix it, unless the camera's own sensor clean function can sort it.
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#6 User is offline   pumapilot 

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Posted 31 May 2009 - 09:50 PM

QUOTE (mort666 @ May 31 2009, 10:47 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
it was interesting seeing him trying to get that big bentley off the line.


Interesting trying to keep it on the black stuff around Goodwood circuit by all accounts too.

This post has been edited by pumapilot: 31 May 2009 - 09:50 PM

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#7 User is offline   Matt & Tiggr MKIII 

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Posted 31 May 2009 - 09:50 PM

It will shake the dust about, but it ends up in one of the many cavities. Canon and Nikon have the same proble.

Arctic Butterfly is what you need - statically charged fibres attract the dust from the sensor when in cleaning mode.
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#8 User is offline   BenF 

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Posted 31 May 2009 - 10:07 PM

some lovely effects there, Paul smile.gif

QUOTE (Matt & Tiggr MKIII @ May 31 2009, 10:50 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
It will shake the dust about, but it ends up in one of the many cavities. Canon and Nikon have the same proble.

Arctic Butterfly is what you need - statically charged fibres attract the dust from the sensor when in cleaning mode.


the more recent Canons have automatic sensor cleaning, but even then mine does not alway shift the dust

having used both wet and dry sensor cleaning systems I would concur with Matt - since I got my Arctic Butterfly (dry cleaning) I have not touched the wet system


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#9 User is offline   mort666 

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Posted 31 May 2009 - 10:10 PM

It looks like that will be my next investment then. Good job I haven't just spent money on a shiny new (well, second hand) lens laugh.gif

I'll try the sensor cleaning mode on the camera in the mean time. even though in the best case it will just move the dust to somewhere else, I suppose it's OK for a short term fix smile.gif
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#10 User is offline   angelbabes34 

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Posted 31 May 2009 - 10:48 PM

Great pics, Paul smile.gif

Always nice to see another sony users pics,gives me something to work on with mine and build my lens collection up.

Out of interest what setting did you shot from on your sony?
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#11 User is offline   mort666 

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Posted 31 May 2009 - 11:42 PM

Hi Julie, and thanks for the comments.

For these static shots I was using the camera in apperture priority mode (A on the dial) and shooting at around f/6.3, although I think for the HDR pictures I shot using f/8 or f/10. I used the apperture priority as for the multiple shots to do the HDR images it's best to keep the depth of field the same. I also set the exposure compensation to around +0.7 as this new lens seems to underexpose a bit as standard.

hope that helps. If you have any more questions, feel free to ask.


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#12 User is offline   BenF 

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Posted 01 June 2009 - 08:48 AM

didn't you find shooting in bright sunlight a real nuisance, Paul?

Last week I was abroad in very bright sunlight and the contrast between the sunny/lit areas and the dark shadows meant that I was losing a lot of detail. I often overexposed to get some detail in the shadows at the expense of detail in the brighter areas. Could it be you were experiencing the same thing? (I then spoiled some pics because I forgot to take off the exposure compensation when I changed location - d'oh!)

When Matt comes along again he will perhaps have an explanation.


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#13 User is offline   mort666 

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Posted 01 June 2009 - 08:59 AM

It was a bit tricky as I wasn't shooting at the best time of day when it's a really bright day (around midday). One of my friends went to great lengths to tell me that on sunny days the best times with regards to the light are often considered the first and last 2 or 3 hours of daylight in the day. Bit tricky though when the subjects aren't around at those times laugh.gif

I found my big lens for shooting the action was overexposing a bit and losing some detail in the brighter areas, but the wide angle was definitely under exposing. In a lot of the user reviews I read online about the lens before I got it, that was one of the common comments.

I took a few quick test shots when I was at my parents the day before when it wasn't quite such a harsh bright sunlight, and it was doing the same there too.

It's only a minor issue though and easy enough to compensate for.
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#14 User is offline   Matt & Tiggr MKIII 

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Posted 01 June 2009 - 09:40 AM

The problem you get shooting wide angle is down to the variance in th direct and indirect light sources. You are better of shooting slightly underexposed, esp in raw as you can pull the detail back to some extent, esp on low ISO. Ideally what I would do if taking single shot that I wouldnt then HDR would be to take spot readings of the sky ( probably 90 degrees to sun ), the shadow and the primary object. I would then work on the average between the brightest and lowest, and compare that the the primary object light reading. If the average is lower than the object reading, I would shoot with the average, if the average was higher than the object reading, I would go for the average between the object reading and the first average ( if that makes sense ).

That said, In that situation, and given its wide angle, therefore you have the ability to shoot fast speed, I would do a 3 image bracket, handheld, set aperture, with the upper and lower limits being the maximum you can go for, the middle shot set at one exposure lower than object reading, the with lowest speed no lower than 1/60 and then HDR it.

Using meter settings for median or full sensor on a wide angle lens in bright sunlight can give very unpredictable results. Hence suggestion for spot meter.

This post has been edited by Matt & Tiggr MKIII: 01 June 2009 - 09:50 AM

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#15 User is offline   mort666 

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Posted 01 June 2009 - 10:31 AM

I think all of the wide angle shots were taken as RAW+JPEG so I might have another look through them in more detail and see how they came out smile.gif

I did do an auto bracket triple shot for a lot of the things I shot, but the downside of trying to do an HDR image in that situation is people moving around in the background. I thought I'd managed to get some of them without too many people in the background but then looked through them at home and found they weren't as good as I thought, unless i can easily clone out the people who will probably end up like ghost images if I try to do HDR images from the pictuers.
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#16 User is offline   Matt & Tiggr MKIII 

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Posted 01 June 2009 - 10:36 AM

Paul,

Have a look at autopano.

Whilst it is designed for panoramic work, it can also be used for HDR stuff where ghosting is a real issue smile.gif

http://www.autopano.net/en/
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Time....to...die........"

#17 User is offline   mort666 

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Posted 01 June 2009 - 11:37 AM

Thanks, I'll have to have a look at it when I get the chance this week smile.gif
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