[FlashBastd]

Nice work Steve, top effort!

[ScubaSteve]

alright bluds, all done

disc and caliper back on, handbrake cable on actually fits ok so dont need a new one, just need to stick a small bit of tube on the handbrake cable adjuster end to shim it out a bit as handbrake travels a bit far, brakes bled all round, not much else to say really, brakes feel nice







oh yeah will need to unbolt the hubs again to fit the 12.5mm spacers when they arrive to set the spacing up to what it was previously

[happy-kat]

Do you have a shaped pad or block that you use when you use a trolley jack on the rear beam please?
And are you jacked about say 8inches in from the end?

[ScubaSteve]

just use a block of wood under the jack on the beam

jack is right in the middle of the beam, is that what you meant?

[happy-kat]

Thanks for the block of wood reply.
I wondered how far along the beam from that wheel side you placed the jack only I have been told not to jack it in the middle so from your picture I was trying to guage how far along you placed it.

[ScubaSteve]

ah yeah in the middle, always done it there with a block of wood. I think some cars (like my swift) you arent meant to as it can bend, but the puma beam is quite solid

[happy-kat]

Ah ok thank you

[FlashBastd]

Steve,

Careful with the extra spacers as the rear disc conversion adds a bit anyway. You should be ok with 12.5mm though. On mine I had to drop from 20.5mm to 12.5mm to avoid fouling, that was with ET34 and 195/45R16

[ScubaSteve]

yeah i have measured the wheel face offset with the 20.5mm setup then after with the disc setup and no spacer, the difference will be pretty much made up to the nearest few mm anyway by a 12.5mm spacer

the rear disc adds about 11mm so with a 12.5mm spacer will take it to 23.5

i put the 20.5mm ones aswell at first and it was ridiculous

This post has been edited by ScubaSteve: 14 November 2011 - 09:44 AM

[ScubaSteve]

quick update, 12.5mm spacers arrived with bolts



and some stainless steel tubing i need to cut a bit off to fit under the adjuster nut on the handbrake cable so i can set it up perfect, strangely these are from a tattoo shop on ebay, and are for some sort of tattoo tool but its the right size and works

[Ian G]

Nice work son

Does look tidy all done.

[FlashBastd]

More nice work!

[Dave2302]

Lovely Job Steve,

Looks good

Cheers Dave

[volcomstone411]

i love clean stuff

[ScubaSteve]

Axle spacers on



made spacer shim thing for handbrake cable



in place



general pics of car

[volcomstone411]

just a few tiny suggestions. the rear beams on the puma are actually quite delicate and if you jack the rear of the car up in the middle you can alter the geometry of the rear beam. I did a test on a bent spare beam and it can effect handling a little bit. Also if you want your bolts all nice and shiney, what you can do is get a bench grinder with a wire wheel one side and clean all your bolts right up. It's good cos then they go in nice and easy and it's better for the thread and bolt when stretched too. Also once bolted on if you squirt a tiny bit of wd40 on the head it will stop it from corroding too.

You can just put a wire wheel on a drill and put it in a vice and hold trigger as well, but bench grinders are better.

car looks sweet though!

[ScubaSteve]

puma beaam is fine been doing it like that for years its solid enough, incidentally had a full geo test when put the beam back on recently and was all spot on cant comment on the earlier type beams though apparently they are weaker

now if you talk about suzuki swift rear beams thats a different kettle of fish lol they are like cardboard

This post has been edited by ScubaSteve: 22 November 2011 - 07:34 AM

[volcomstone411]

hmm, mine bent, that's interesting. Mine was a new ford beam that had been bent on one corner. I wonder if ford are using a new type of beam and modyfying it for puma now.

[ScubaSteve]

won on ebay, mongoose

This post has been edited by ScubaSteve: 23 November 2011 - 10:42 PM

[Ian G]

Nice.