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Puma 1.7 Melina Blue A running diary Rate Topic: -----

#1 User is offline   JPTipper 

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Posted 03 December 2012 - 11:26 AM

Hiya,

So thought id start one of these, taken loads of pics and done some work to mine so thought id share.


So this is what it looks like currently:

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Project 1 001 by JPTipper, on Flickr

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photo 2 by JPTipper, on Flickr

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photo 1 by JPTipper, on Flickr


First thing i did was to put a iPod/iPhone compatible head unit in, this has bluetooth and a mic on a cable for handsfree and can also do the voicedial thingy which is nice, i also got a DIN adapter kit with pins, ISO adapter and ISO cage with a tray in the bottom, makes a change from just a blank piece of plastic!

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Project 1 003 by JPTipper, on Flickr


I then waxoyled the underneath of the boot floor where the spare wheel sits, as well as painted the spare wheel cage and the sparewheel steel (no pics of these, sorry :S )

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Project 1 004 by JPTipper, on Flickr

Then on a trip back from maidstone, theres a part of the M20 where there are no road lights whatsoever, i noticed this because i was having trouble seeing! (Though i know Puma headlights arent exactly brilliant) The reason:

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Untitled by JPTipper, on Flickr


So i went down halfrauds and bought a pack of various grades of wet n dry 600, 800 and 1200.

Items also required are:

  • 1 Ford Puma with manky headlights
  • Sponge
  • Ice cream tub (or any water containing vessel)
  • Wet n Dry various grades
  • Masking Tape
  • T-Cut
  • Autoglym Colour Restorer (ACR)
  • Super Resin Polish (SRP)
  • Lacquer (***!!!make sure its safe for use on bare plastics!!!***)
Technique for those of you who dont know, is pretty simple, moisten the headlight cover plastic, (i wouldnt worry about washing with shampoo or whatever though.) and then:



  • Take a ice cream tub (or container of your choice and fill it with water)
  • Mask off your headlights or remove from car body completely
  • Dip wet dry 600 (only a folded over 100x100mm square) in water and using horizontal and vertical strokes (alternate between every so often) start sanding your headlight plastic.
  • After using 600, wash down headlight with wet sponge. I find it better to wash down the plastic dust off of the front bumper too as its a bugger to get off once baked on from the sun
  • Repeat with 800 and finally 1200, using only horizontal and vertical strokes
You want to dip your wet n dry paper in the water occasionally as this stops it from clogging.

After your wet n dry sanding, you headlights should look something like this, a nice consistent milky matt smooth to touch:

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Untitled by JPTipper, on Flickr

Do a final wet wipe down and allow to dry before moving to next step:

For this you will need T-cut, ACR and the SRP

  • Using the T-Cut, massage it into the headlight plastic so theres a nice even coating. Leave to dry.
  • Apply T-cut to your electric buffer and using fairly even pressure begin to buff out the matt haze left by the wet n dry.
  • Dont use too hard a pressure, you dont want flat spots.
  • Repeat for the ACR and the SRP.
  • Essentially what should happen is, the T-cut will do its job, the headlight will go glossy, move onto ACR, when the headlight goes glossy move onto SRP.
When you have finished and you're sweating like a pig in a bacon factory, your headlights should look something like this:

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Untitled by JPTipper, on Flickr

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Untitled by JPTipper, on Flickr

Then all you need to do is mask up the car and apply your plasticsafe clearcoat lacquer in 6-7 very light coats, allow to cure in a warm garage or airing cupboard (if you removed them from the car) and then they look like this:

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Untitled by JPTipper, on Flickr

Lovely.

^^^Note: i take no responsibility for you cocking this up, its intended as a guide, rather than instructions. Do this at your own risk.^^^


Right, onto the next!


I fancied some better brakes after passing my MOT with no advisories and emissions so low you would think the car ran on water! so i have a trawl through Flea bay and found some of these beauties:

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Untitled by JPTipper, on Flickr

Cosworth 4 Pot calipers, with pads.

I didnt like the blueyness of them, plus they looked really manky so i first washed them down with some alloy wheel cleaner to get the brake dust off, then with a hammer i chipped off as much of the paint as i could before using a dremel with a coarse stone and a sanding wheel.

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Untitled by JPTipper, on Flickr

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Untitled by JPTipper, on Flickr

Then to make them loook nice, ive painted them, roughed them up a bit first so the paint would stick though

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Untitled by JPTipper, on Flickr


Thats it for now chaps, a few things to do:

  • Fit my cossie 4 pots w/braided hoses
  • Put some better tyres on the front (my Nankang Ditchfinders are poop in the wet and squeal like a stuck pig in the dry)
  • Waxoyl the rest of the underside of the car (preferably with a paintbrush, the aerosol goes EVERYWHERE
  • Sort out my driverside arch, rusty is not the word
  • the engine aux belt has a intermittent wibbly noise
  • The bonnet was left with large amounts of bird poo on it by the previous owner for a considerable period of time, i need either to get it resprayed, or find one in better condition.
  • Get the Eibach/ford lowering spring kit
  • Lower strut brace
  • Look into getting more power from the engine, probably some head work, cams, exhaust and a frp remap.
  • New number plates
  • Silly little bits like the parcel shelf rubber bump thingy and replace a missing boot lid mushroom.


Oh before i go, does anyone know which way round the cossie 4 pots go? my instincts say bleed nipples downwards but my common sense says upwards to allow air bubbles to rise.

Anyway, Chars for now, More pics and bit n pieces to follow! :)/>/>/>/>

This post has been edited by JPTipper: 03 December 2012 - 12:15 PM

Andy, Project Thread Here1979 Ford Capri Mk3 1.6L in Midnight Blue (Sold to a man in essex), 1999 Ford Puma 1.4 Melina Blue (Written off by a man with a fast motorbike), 1992 Peugeot 106 XSi 1.4 Miami Blue (Restored then sold to a man who now races it), Ford Puma 1.7 Melina Blue (Aww Yeah :D ) It is evident that i unknowingly like blue cars...


#2 User is offline   happy-kat 

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Posted 03 December 2012 - 06:15 PM

Your work on the light units looks really sucessful.
I just use safe cut and a low level attack in comparrisson so might read your approach in detail again.
searching is fruitful | I'm a sponge not a mechanic | The Wiki is cool, please do check there if stuck with a Puma problem whilst waiting for a reply | For the Puma fan this read 'The Inside Story Book' is very nice to own link coming soon

#3 User is offline   melinamotor 

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Posted 03 December 2012 - 07:11 PM

Good work
Ex Melina 1.7,ex FRP441,ex Silver 1.7
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BMW M3. www.tremonagarage.com

#4 User is offline   JPTipper 

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Posted 03 December 2012 - 08:51 PM

Hi,

thanks to both of you :)

Yeah the lights were a labour of love i'm afraid, it does get to a point where they look a lot worse and ruined, but perseverance does pay off!

I tried without lacquering at first but shampooing and heavy hot traffic made them go hazy again within literally hours. I think they must have some kind of protective UV coat on them to protect from such things. So i only needed to machine SRP again before applying lacquer, rather than the whole T-Cut, ACR, SRP shebang.

I did try on a deep scuff on the black part of the head light before moving to where the beam exits, to make sure it wouldn't ruin anything first though.
Andy, Project Thread Here1979 Ford Capri Mk3 1.6L in Midnight Blue (Sold to a man in essex), 1999 Ford Puma 1.4 Melina Blue (Written off by a man with a fast motorbike), 1992 Peugeot 106 XSi 1.4 Miami Blue (Restored then sold to a man who now races it), Ford Puma 1.7 Melina Blue (Aww Yeah :D ) It is evident that i unknowingly like blue cars...


#5 User is offline   Black Kat 

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Posted 04 December 2012 - 07:47 AM

Looking good. I usually use a fine wet and dry the get the polishing mop with g3 compound then a good polish on the lights. Seems to be a common problem on lots if cars (we seem to be polishing lots of lights that fail the mot at work).
The calipers have the nipples pointing up. It will be nice to see how the calipers fit as I have a spare pair of cossie four pots also some Escort Cosworth calipers which might end up on my Puma

#6 User is offline   JPTipper 

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Posted 04 December 2012 - 09:11 AM

View PostBlack Kat, on 04 December 2012 - 07:47 AM, said:

Looking good. I usually use a fine wet and dry the get the polishing mop with g3 compound then a good polish on the lights. Seems to be a common problem on lots if cars (we seem to be polishing lots of lights that fail the mot at work).
The calipers have the nipples pointing up. It will be nice to see how the calipers fit as I have a spare pair of cossie four pots also some Escort Cosworth calipers which might end up on my Puma



Ah! cheers Black Kat, exactly what i needed to know :)

Yeah will keep you posted on the installation front, i have a sneaky suspicion that the mounting holes in the hubs have to be drilled and tapped but not sure what size as of yet
Andy, Project Thread Here1979 Ford Capri Mk3 1.6L in Midnight Blue (Sold to a man in essex), 1999 Ford Puma 1.4 Melina Blue (Written off by a man with a fast motorbike), 1992 Peugeot 106 XSi 1.4 Miami Blue (Restored then sold to a man who now races it), Ford Puma 1.7 Melina Blue (Aww Yeah :D ) It is evident that i unknowingly like blue cars...


#7 User is offline   JPTipper 

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Posted 07 December 2012 - 11:06 AM

My new cossie 4 pot pins and springs (or whatever they're called) turned up today, so have added them to the pile for chucking on at the end of the month:

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Springs and Pins by JPTipper, on Flickr

On the installation front, i have decided to try and keep the caliper hub mounting holes the same as original so if i want to go back to poop brakes i can (if i sell the car or whatever and want to keep the brakes)
From what info i have gathered on the internet, the centre-centre of the hole measurement of both the standard calipers and the 4 pots are the same, its just they are slightly larger, so have ordered some OD 12mm ID 10mm tensile steel tube 20mm sections and will treat them like reducing inserts and press them in. That way i wont need to drill and tap the hubs. Will let you know how i get on!
Andy, Project Thread Here1979 Ford Capri Mk3 1.6L in Midnight Blue (Sold to a man in essex), 1999 Ford Puma 1.4 Melina Blue (Written off by a man with a fast motorbike), 1992 Peugeot 106 XSi 1.4 Miami Blue (Restored then sold to a man who now races it), Ford Puma 1.7 Melina Blue (Aww Yeah :D ) It is evident that i unknowingly like blue cars...


#8 User is offline   JPTipper 

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Posted 10 December 2012 - 09:07 AM

So had a test fitting of one of the calipers today:

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IMG_1631 by JPTipper, on Flickr

Discs are not correct, i need to order some 2WD Cossie ones, these are the current 239mm which are too small (Which i knew anyway)


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IMG_1632 by JPTipper, on Flickr

All I did to test fit was to unbolt the original caliper but leave it connected to the braking system (as you can see above), this was only a physical-fit test to check for any problems that might arise


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Reducer and Bolt by JPTipper, on Flickr

Comparison of the reducing sleeve and the original hole, nicely sits in there with a tight fit (had to use a vice, hence the paint damage on that side) and the bolt slides in with no jiggle.

For Reference:

Reducing sleeve: OD12mm x ID10mm x 17mm Long
Bolt size is M10 x 40mm


Posted Image
IMG_1636 by JPTipper, on Flickr

Showing what the fitting order is and the gap between the end of the bolt and the abs ring, the photo messes up the sense of perspective really, the gap is actually about 1/2" -3/4" which should be enough to allow for heat expansion, if my maths is right.

On the end of the bolt will be a M10 toothed washer (the kind of toothed washer that cuts fingers) and a nice chunky M10 Nyloc nut, used in conjunction with a very slight dab of threadlocker blue.

Depending on the thickness of the washer and the Nyloc nut I'll shave a little off the bolts just to increase the clearance further.


Issues i have discovered upon test fitting this caliper:

The outlet for the brake hose fouls the Puma driveshaft (assuming that this is because the calipers are from the RWD Cossie). Solution is to make up a solid copper brake pipe connector with a male nut (Caliper side) on one end and female nut (Brake hose side) on the other, with a 90 degree angle in the middle, making the backwards facing horizontal connection into a vertical one.

Edit: Having thought about it, the angle for the adapter is more likely to be 110-160 degrees to clear the driveshaft and the inner rim of the wheel. This will make the hose end face the front of the car and be nearer where the hose mountings are.

Details to follow (once I've worked it out myself haha)

This post has been edited by JPTipper: 10 December 2012 - 11:19 AM

Andy, Project Thread Here1979 Ford Capri Mk3 1.6L in Midnight Blue (Sold to a man in essex), 1999 Ford Puma 1.4 Melina Blue (Written off by a man with a fast motorbike), 1992 Peugeot 106 XSi 1.4 Miami Blue (Restored then sold to a man who now races it), Ford Puma 1.7 Melina Blue (Aww Yeah :D ) It is evident that i unknowingly like blue cars...


#9 User is offline   JPTipper 

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Posted 10 December 2012 - 11:35 AM

Just to note to myself really more than anything but if anyone has suggestions let me know, its probably been done before

Copper Pipe Route 1

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Brake pipe adapter route by JPTipper, on Flickr


Copper Pipe Route 2

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Brake pipe adapter route 2 by JPTipper, on Flickr
Andy, Project Thread Here1979 Ford Capri Mk3 1.6L in Midnight Blue (Sold to a man in essex), 1999 Ford Puma 1.4 Melina Blue (Written off by a man with a fast motorbike), 1992 Peugeot 106 XSi 1.4 Miami Blue (Restored then sold to a man who now races it), Ford Puma 1.7 Melina Blue (Aww Yeah :D ) It is evident that i unknowingly like blue cars...


#10 User is offline   JPTipper 

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Posted 30 January 2013 - 03:28 PM

Ok.....

So havent updated for a while, thought i should really,

The Cossie 4 Pots are a no go for me i think, They fit beautifully and Fiesta ST150 discs are ideal for this application as the dimensions of the hub part and the disc thickness are more or less identical to standard 239's. Unfortunately, i didnt take into account the massive width of the calipers (schoolboy error). The props go over them fine, however, youre looking at using 30-40mm hubcentric spacers on each side to allow the caliper to clear the prop spokes. I dont fancy dead bearings and cocked up suspension/steering geometry, so the 4 pots went on ebay and were quickly snapped up.

I kept the ST discs as i'm now going to fit their respective calipers, hopefully i shall have more luck with these.

Other thing i have done:

  • New Headlight bulbs, both dipped and full's. 60W blue filter bulbs, seem to make the headlights less like candles, and give you more close range vision without reducing distance. They look very clean in the dark and dont look like bodged HIDs (disclaimer, not saying retrofitted HIDs are bad or crap, just we get a lot of mouth breathers round here with Saxo's and Novas with HIDs bodged into standard bulb lenses, blinding anything and everything in a 179 degree arc of the fronts of their cars, full beam or not)
Phew, anyway,

  • I got a Hoffman race tube and cheap Klarius back box, essentailly a mild steel cat back. Throttle response is slightly improved. I've lost a silencer, however, the Klarius box is so good for the cost (20-40 quid, yes cheap, but quality is excellent, fitted like a dream), you dont notice unless you have full throttle, then it gets loud and turns to a roar. Cruising is nice and painless, with no 70mph drone (I like this pipe and box combo) :)
  • I have a rattle at 2000-2500rpm, which i thought was the old back box, when you shook it you could hear it rattling like id blown the baffles, however after fitting the new one, the rattle is still there, i later found out its possibly one of the heat shields, so fixing that tonight or tomorrow.
  • I changed my boot struts for new ones from a german company, very nice, boot rises on its own as it should when you press the release
  • Bloody rocker cover gasket is leaking again, this morning i was just coming into work when the bonnet started smoking, and i had a warm smell of clean oil in the cabin, realised the oil had run onto the exhaust heatshield :/
  • Changed the engine head earth strap, wow what a difference!
  • Cleaned the MAF and Lambda sensor with carb cleaner and electrical contact cleaner. Made a definite positive improvement to fuel consumption (back to 40mpg now) and throttle response.
  • Picked up a set of mintex shoes and mintex fitting kit for my drum brakes, the handbrake has been progreessively getting worse so thought id change the lot while i was in there.
  • Discovered that the Ford Puma 1.7 is an insanely good car in the snow, there was no stopping it, hills, corners, ice, snow, slush all bowed down before it. Uncle took my car out shopping instead of his freelander at one point :P I love my Puma :)
Thats it for now, il be going to get my ST calipers after work and have a go at fitting tomorrow along with new shoes and braided hoses, will let you know how i get on :)

Chars!


Andy, Project Thread Here1979 Ford Capri Mk3 1.6L in Midnight Blue (Sold to a man in essex), 1999 Ford Puma 1.4 Melina Blue (Written off by a man with a fast motorbike), 1992 Peugeot 106 XSi 1.4 Miami Blue (Restored then sold to a man who now races it), Ford Puma 1.7 Melina Blue (Aww Yeah :D ) It is evident that i unknowingly like blue cars...


#11 User is offline   JPTipper 

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Posted 04 February 2013 - 12:06 PM

Ok, so first things first,



  • I solved the rocker cover leak (i think) one of the front nuts and metal cap rubber washer thingies was slightly looser than the others, Tightened it up in gorilla fashion and now no leak (yet)
  • I had a go at sorting the rattle out, one heatshield was resting on the exhaust, the mounting holes corroded through and one butterfly nut/plate (whatever they are called) was missing, refitted that with new metal coutesy of Mr Heinz and all is well, rattle still persists further towards engine, i twanged several parts of the shields, and bent ones back tighter to see if it made a difference. It made a difference all right, the rattle has dropped down the rev range to around 1800-2000rpm now! The girlfriend reckons this rattle is going to be the end of me, its certainly driving her mad lol
Right, onto good stuff :)/>

Picture of Hoffman race tube and klarius back box off the car
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Rear drums were rebuilt and greased, and the bearings were repacked with grease, smooth as anything now, handbrake is nice and tight and the back end of the car sits down when braking hard.

Old drums
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New drums
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nb; i've seen a couple of different adjuster styles for these drums; threaded rods and sprung ratchet style ones (Mine) after reassembling the shoe/springs but before carefully putting the drum back over them without losing the bearings over the floor, the adjusters need resetting to zero. To do this, insert a small flat blade screwdriver in one hand between the sprung ratchet arm of the adjuster and the round ridged spindle and lever the adjuster back, then with your other hand push the adjuster towards the back plate, then withdraw screwdriver without pulling adjuster out again. Then push the shoes together and slide the drum over the top. Hope the explanation is clear enough, just a schoolboy error that i made on one side that siezed the wheel up and had to take it apart again, hopefully someone will see this before doing there shoes and wont be caught out! Im learning things as i go :)/> Before starting the car give the brake pedal a few hard pushes on the brake pedal, this adjusts the shoes to their correct position, if you have your door/window open when you do this you should hear them :)/> Then re tighten hand brake to 3/4 clicks and your done!


I managed to sell my cossie 4 pots on ebay and buy Fiesta ST150 calipers (brand new, never been fitted, the poor chap who owned the unfortunate ST had an accident with these in his boot, on his way home to fit them one should imagine) at a local breakers shop for only a 20 loss, some might say, for me, a victory.

Old 239's and calipers
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New 279's and ST Calipers with braided hoses
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What can i say, the new brakes are brilliant, even with Partco Motorsport pads. I will be getting mintex at some point but with them braking this good on poverty spec pads i cant see a reson to do so imo.
I've got a nice firm pedal right from the top of travel and they come in progressively all the way to around 1/2 way where the pedal refuses to go down any further, its a lot more comforting driving with definate brakes lol!

If your thinking of fitting ST calipers to your propeller wheeled puma, remove the casting lines/flashing from them before fitting, i did not do this and they jammed in the wheels. Removing the casting lines solved this problem at the expense of losing Uncle Henry's brand new paint finish on the outside :,(

Also if using braided OE style hoses, amke sure theyre not twisted when fitting calipers, and remove the hose mount from the shock, they dont fit nicely enough and rub the tyres. The Hose should curve towards the front of the car as it leaves the brake pipe, then curve round and face backwards, then curve round forwards again into the caliper (See the new pic above should give you the general gist). This stops the hose from rubbing the wheel on full lock either way and the hose tucks nicely behind when driving straight on.

Oh, i think the extra braking power i have been afforded has been putting more strain on the already slightly tired rubber suspension components, i have a suspension knock now as well as a heat shield rattle, so that needs to be fixed asap really, as well as needing an appointment with a psychiatrist for all these squeaks bangs and rattles that seem to have appeared out of nowhere :crazy:/> :head:/> :mad:/>

Right well thats all ive got for now,

Chars!
Andy, Project Thread Here1979 Ford Capri Mk3 1.6L in Midnight Blue (Sold to a man in essex), 1999 Ford Puma 1.4 Melina Blue (Written off by a man with a fast motorbike), 1992 Peugeot 106 XSi 1.4 Miami Blue (Restored then sold to a man who now races it), Ford Puma 1.7 Melina Blue (Aww Yeah :D ) It is evident that i unknowingly like blue cars...


#12 User is offline   JPTipper 

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Posted 04 February 2013 - 12:17 PM

Oh and if anyone knows how to remove the rear hoses from their fixing points on the car body (that double thickness tab) it would be appreciated, I was staring at them for a good half hour with a look on my face not unlike a puzzled Chimp, i gave up in the end lol

Posted Image
Rear brake hoses by JPTipper, on Flickr

This post has been edited by JPTipper: 04 February 2013 - 12:17 PM

Andy, Project Thread Here1979 Ford Capri Mk3 1.6L in Midnight Blue (Sold to a man in essex), 1999 Ford Puma 1.4 Melina Blue (Written off by a man with a fast motorbike), 1992 Peugeot 106 XSi 1.4 Miami Blue (Restored then sold to a man who now races it), Ford Puma 1.7 Melina Blue (Aww Yeah :D ) It is evident that i unknowingly like blue cars...


#13 User is offline   happy-kat 

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Posted 04 February 2013 - 08:25 PM

Bargain on the brakes B)
Chris might know re your stuck brake stuff, have a hint or something.
searching is fruitful | I'm a sponge not a mechanic | The Wiki is cool, please do check there if stuck with a Puma problem whilst waiting for a reply | For the Puma fan this read 'The Inside Story Book' is very nice to own link coming soon

#14 User is offline   Kizza 

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Posted 05 February 2013 - 10:40 AM

im sure there held on the same as the front!i had to clamp mine with mole grips because they kept flexing due to rust but in in dought put loads of wd40 on it leave it a couple of hours and give it a tap, but remember to remove the little tang like the front ;)/>

#15 User is offline   JPTipper 

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Posted 06 February 2013 - 11:55 AM

View PostKizza, on 05 February 2013 - 10:40 AM, said:

im sure there held on the same as the front!i had to clamp mine with mole grips because they kept flexing due to rust but in in dought put loads of wd40 on it leave it a couple of hours and give it a tap, but remember to remove the little tang like the front ;)/>/>


Yeah I pulled the clip out but wasnt sure if it taps down wards or upwards, or if its clamped to the mounting with a nut like the fron or what lol
Andy, Project Thread Here1979 Ford Capri Mk3 1.6L in Midnight Blue (Sold to a man in essex), 1999 Ford Puma 1.4 Melina Blue (Written off by a man with a fast motorbike), 1992 Peugeot 106 XSi 1.4 Miami Blue (Restored then sold to a man who now races it), Ford Puma 1.7 Melina Blue (Aww Yeah :D ) It is evident that i unknowingly like blue cars...


#16 User is offline   JPTipper 

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Posted 06 February 2013 - 11:56 AM

View Posthappy-kat, on 04 February 2013 - 08:25 PM, said:

Bargain on the brakes B)/>


Yeah i was very happy with the brakes, and how much money they didnt cost me!
Andy, Project Thread Here1979 Ford Capri Mk3 1.6L in Midnight Blue (Sold to a man in essex), 1999 Ford Puma 1.4 Melina Blue (Written off by a man with a fast motorbike), 1992 Peugeot 106 XSi 1.4 Miami Blue (Restored then sold to a man who now races it), Ford Puma 1.7 Melina Blue (Aww Yeah :D ) It is evident that i unknowingly like blue cars...


#17 User is offline   Kizza 

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Posted 06 February 2013 - 04:53 PM

View PostJPTipper, on 06 February 2013 - 11:55 AM, said:

Yeah I pulled the clip out but wasnt sure if it taps down wards or upwards, or if its clamped to the mounting with a nut like the fron or what lol


it goes down pal, just the sameas the front ;)/>

#18 User is offline   JPTipper 

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Posted 07 February 2013 - 11:02 PM

Lovely, cheers mate
Andy, Project Thread Here1979 Ford Capri Mk3 1.6L in Midnight Blue (Sold to a man in essex), 1999 Ford Puma 1.4 Melina Blue (Written off by a man with a fast motorbike), 1992 Peugeot 106 XSi 1.4 Miami Blue (Restored then sold to a man who now races it), Ford Puma 1.7 Melina Blue (Aww Yeah :D ) It is evident that i unknowingly like blue cars...


#19 User is offline   Daveyca55 

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Posted 08 February 2013 - 09:57 AM

Its always a good idea to keep some of them clips spare. Ive broken so many of them now where they have discintergrated trying to take them out!

Apart from the fiesta where the inner arch came with it!

#20 User is offline   JPTipper 

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Posted 03 May 2013 - 10:02 AM

Ok so an Update :P

Been a while so bare with me :D

  • Borg and Beck rear wheel Cylinders
  • Rear braided hoses, meaning in braided all round now
  • Re fitted my rocker cover gasket, was getting a terrible leak of oil on the driveway, at the worst i was going through 1 ltr of oil a week! Chnaged that along with the rubber bushes on top and the leak seems to have stopped. Upon removing old one, discovered one nut had stripped its own thread, thus releasing pressure from one corner, probably why the leak happened.
  • Bought some engine degreaser, gonna have a go at cleaning the underside of the engine now my car isnt dripping everywhere.
  • Rattle/clatter still persists, its driving me insane. Need help with this ideally, not so helpful suggestions from gleeful peugeot owners have been: cambelt tensioner, clutch slave cylinder bearing. Only happens at around 2000rpm up 2300rpm. under this and over this, there is no noise.
  • I sheared a hub pinch bolt somehow, managed to get it removed and replaced.
  • The car has had new wishbones, droplinks and balljoints.
  • I also put in flo flex bushes on the rear beam after i discovered it had 'dynamic tracking adjustment' of around 20 mm when i jacked the rear end up. Nice and tight now.
  • I played with a set of flo flex bushes for the lower engine mount for a week, the engine noise gets transferred through the cabin, vibration is plentiful, accelerator pedal feel and response is awsome. The best combination would be if it was firm to provide the accelerator feel and response without being hard and transferring all the engine vibration and noise, unfortunately these go hand in hand. Replaced soon after with a brand new genuine ford lower engine mount, 84+VAT i think it was (receipt in car). I think the dashboard was ready to give up too, with all the vibration, there were rattles where you would think there would be rattles! on the other hand, it would be ideal for someone with a trackday puma.
  • I sorted my aux belt wibbly noise out, Ian G was right, it was the idler pulley. replaced with a new cheap belt for now, im gonna replace the tensioner too at some point then i can get a decent belt.
  • I have top mounts and bearings for the front ready to go, i just need to be in the right mood :D
  • i have track rod ends to fit, need to do these then go get the car tracked and geometry sorted out because the steering wheel is at about 11oclock right now and the car wants to lunch on roadside verge when you let go of it, probably do this after top mounts are installed to save on messing about.
If anyone wants to buy my polybushed lower engine mount for trackday purposes, let me know, i like it, its just too hard for a daily driver :(

Oh yeah, little rant, after going to the GF's for a film night i came out to find my driverside wing mirror smashed off and hanging by the electrical cable, whatever muppet that had come along not knowing the width of their own car had taken my mirror off so hard, that the casing had swung forwards and dented my wing :( Not happy, its not a big dent, or very noticable, but i know its there. Luckily i had a space wing mirror casing and the glass from the smashed wing mirror was ok, a morning, a lot of swearing and a ent in the wing later, the car looks like it did before. I wouldnt normally be annoyed, yes, wing mirrors get smashed off and i accept that, its just the time it took and the dent that wasnt there before :(

Rant over, thats all for now,

Chars!


Andy, Project Thread Here1979 Ford Capri Mk3 1.6L in Midnight Blue (Sold to a man in essex), 1999 Ford Puma 1.4 Melina Blue (Written off by a man with a fast motorbike), 1992 Peugeot 106 XSi 1.4 Miami Blue (Restored then sold to a man who now races it), Ford Puma 1.7 Melina Blue (Aww Yeah :D ) It is evident that i unknowingly like blue cars...


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