Pumapeople: New fronts or all four??? - Pumapeople

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New fronts or all four???

#1 User is offline   james1504 

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Posted 04 January 2005 - 04:58 PM

Hi all,
I definitely need some new front boots for the Puma, but was wondering whether it is better to change all four at the same time. Any thoughts?

Also, any suggestions for a good tyre for "enthusiastic" road driving would be appreciated:)

Cheers

#2 User is offline   David 

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Posted 04 January 2005 - 05:45 PM

I'd be inclined to do all 4 (I did) but I guess it depends on how much you want to pay and how much meat is left on the rears, mine had around 6.5mm, but wanted the same tyres all round so off they came.
As for a tyre choice, Toyo Proxes T1-R's are where it's at. :rock:
David - Clio Trophy now sold! Megane R26 on the way - ETA March 1st 2008.
Ex-FRS #2787 - Ex-FRP #383

#3 User is offline   Del 66 

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Posted 04 January 2005 - 05:51 PM

Yeah, if you have the money, then go for all four new tyres. I had to as all four were MOT failures. :shock:
Del & Milly #0066

#4 User is offline   m8tte 

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Posted 05 January 2005 - 06:17 PM

Don't buy good year F1s do a search on the problems I have had with them

Or buy mine off me (i have 5) so I can get some proper tyres!

You have been warned!


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Puma 1.7

#5 User is offline   Katwoman 

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Posted 05 January 2005 - 06:32 PM

I went for some toyo proxes today, was pretty impressed on the way home...
BACK ON THE ROAD

#6 User is offline   wrenton 

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Posted 05 January 2005 - 06:33 PM

I'd recommend changing both fornt and both rear but not all four to be honest - swap the front to back (and vice versa)
Puma 1.7, FRP #148, Seat Leon Cupra R, FRP #260, Focus TDCi, Focus ST170

Currently: Puma Thunder (for sale)

#7 Guest_lesinge2k_*


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Posted 05 January 2005 - 07:20 PM

QUOTE
I went for some toyo proxes today, was pretty impressed on the way home...


which type? the t1-r or t1-s? :?:

I have t1-s on my panther... they are ace 8)

#8 User is offline   David 

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Posted 05 January 2005 - 07:48 PM

Come on P7000 huggers come and argue. :twisted: :rotflmao:
T1-R's are the best. cool2.gif
David - Clio Trophy now sold! Megane R26 on the way - ETA March 1st 2008.
Ex-FRS #2787 - Ex-FRP #383

#9 User is offline   Wardy 

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Posted 05 January 2005 - 08:11 PM

Just make sure the better/newer tyres are on the back. I use bridgestone Potenzas and they are superb. Bought from tjmotorsport.co.uk
Wardy

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#10 Guest_lesinge2k_*


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Posted 05 January 2005 - 11:17 PM

I have heard that about the newer better tyres on back... however, my rears never wear... so I leave them as thery are...

#11 User is offline   james1504 

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Posted 06 January 2005 - 09:10 AM

QUOTE
I went for some toyo proxes today, was pretty impressed on the way home...


I was thinking about getting those (the T1-Rs). Did you change all four?

#12 User is offline   james1504 

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Posted 06 January 2005 - 09:12 AM

QUOTE
I'd recommend changing both fornt and both rear but not all four to be honest - swap the front to back (and vice versa)


My fronts really need changing but my rear are fine. What is the thinking behind putting the newer/better tyres on the back? Doesn't the grip need to be at the front?

#13 Guest_lesinge2k_*


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Posted 06 January 2005 - 09:26 AM

QUOTE
QUOTE
I'd recommend changing both fornt and both rear but not all four to be honest - swap the front to back (and vice versa)


My fronts really need changing but my rear are fine. What is the thinking behind putting the newer/better tyres on the back? Doesn't the grip need to be at the front?


The logic behind putting the newer tyres on the back is as follows:

At the front, you get mechanical grip from accelerating aswell as from the tread. To demonstrate this mechanical grip, think of when you power through a corner, as oppose to letting it drift through a corner... the car hold the line a lot better. Also informula 1, they are known to lose it if they lift off going through corners.

So as you have this mechanical grip at the front, you don't need as much tread as at the back where it is solely reliant upon the tread. Obviously this is all based on driving in the wet. In dry (un-oily) conditions, it doesn't matter how much tread there is, as slicks are the ideal (but not road legal).

#14 Guest_XIIVVX_*


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Posted 06 January 2005 - 10:25 AM

There will never be a meeting of minds on the topic of 'best tyres front or rear'

My view, based on some recent experience is that

FOR A WELL DRIVEN PUMA the advice to put the best tyres on the rear is not appropriate, it being more meant for the type of mimser who gets horribly caught out mid-bend in his Daewoo and stamps on the stop pedal in panic.

With near slicks on the back of the Puma, in wet greasy weather, you still have to work very hard to get the rear to step out, When it does, it is very easily controlled.

I wouldn't change rear tyres that had more than 2mm of tread on them on the back except for cosmetic reasons and if I was feeling flush at the time. I prefer 4mm minimum on the front.

I like Toyo, but I'm still on the 'S'

XIIVVX

#15 User is offline   Slasher 

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Posted 06 January 2005 - 04:43 PM

I'm suffering from having crap own-brand Ford tyres on the back which never wear but have far less grip than the new Bridgestone RE720's I have at the front. Twice recently I've nearly span out on a roundabout as the rear tyres lost grip.

Having consistently good tyres all round is a must, I'm gonna change the rears even though there's loads of tread left. Cheaper and safer than having an accident.

#16 Guest_XIIVVX_*


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Posted 06 January 2005 - 05:02 PM

QUOTE
I'm suffering from having crap own-brand Ford tyres on the back which never wear but have far less grip than the new Bridgestone RE720's I have at the front. Twice recently I've nearly span out on a roundabout as the rear tyres lost grip.

Having consistently good tyres all round is a must, I'm gonna change the rears even though there's loads of tread left. Cheaper and safer than having an accident.


Erm... How do you 'nearly' spin out? You either spin, or you don't surely?

If you mean the back starts to slide towards the left, that's called oversteer. You apply the merest opposite lock and it responds by quickly and neatly correcting. This should never cause you to have an accident.

Take advantage of the crap tyres you have by finding yourself a nice wet (and empty) supermarket car park and practising. It will stand you in good stead should it happen again for real and you will have added another driving skill that they don't teach at BSM smile.gif It's lots of fun too.

Then change your tyres.


XIIVVX

#17 User is offline   David 

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Posted 06 January 2005 - 05:08 PM

QUOTE
You apply the merest opposite lock and it responds by quickly and neatly correcting.

Not to mention throttle. :yell: The Puma is a very easy car to correct when it starts to oversteer, it's quite forgiving. Having said that, it could well cause an accident if it happens mid roundabout and you have a 'if anything goes wrong, brake hard' driver behind the wheel. If your not confident catching the car I'd want the best rear tyres I could get.
David - Clio Trophy now sold! Megane R26 on the way - ETA March 1st 2008.
Ex-FRS #2787 - Ex-FRP #383

#18 Guest_XIIVVX_*


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Posted 06 January 2005 - 05:55 PM

QUOTE
Not to mention throttle. :yell:
Quite right. Oversteer correction involves staying on the throttle, it's much less pretty if you come off it.

QUOTE
it could well cause an accident if it happens mid roundabout and you have a 'if anything goes wrong, brake hard' driver behind the wheel

I am confident that applies to nobody here. If it does I will personally take their Puma away and give them a Daewoo.

XIIVVX

#19 User is offline   David 

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Posted 06 January 2005 - 06:07 PM

QUOTE
I am confident that applies to nobody here. If it does I will personally take their Puma away and give them a Daewoo.

True enough. :rotflmao:
James: the T1-R's. I had these put on my car by Pumabuild in December and have done around 300 (I think lol) miles on them. I went for a set of 4 to get rid of the old P7000's that were on the car, and boy, are they good! A better tyre than the P7000, although they do seem quite soft so might not last that long but oh well. laugh.gif The sidewalls are pretty hard-as-nails so the ride is firmer but the turn-in benefits greatly from them, so it's worth it. Easily the best road-based tyre IMO.
David - Clio Trophy now sold! Megane R26 on the way - ETA March 1st 2008.
Ex-FRS #2787 - Ex-FRP #383

#20 User is offline   Dan 

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Posted 07 January 2005 - 02:59 AM

QUOTE
QUOTE
You apply the merest opposite lock and it responds by quickly and neatly correcting.

Not to mention throttle. :yell: The Puma is a very easy car to correct when it starts to oversteer, it's quite forgiving. Having said that, it could well cause an accident if it happens mid roundabout and you have a 'if anything goes wrong, brake hard' driver behind the wheel. If your not confident catching the car I'd want the best rear tyres I could get.


The first time I experienced oversteer in the FRP was mid-roundabout with col in front of me and adpuma behind me (in his black puma at the time). It was mid roundabout in rush hour and I noticed the traffic was queued immediately after the exit. I let off and the back started to slide. Without thinking I put my foot on the brake and it got worse.

Luckily, I put my foot on the accellerator and stopped just behind 447's bumper, since then I have been able to correct it on every occasion (though it has never been the same heart-in-mouth situation).

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