Pumapeople: My Turn To Attempt The Challenging - Pumapeople

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My Turn To Attempt The Challenging beating the rust, my progress thread Rate Topic: -----

#21 User is offline   ssulti 

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Posted 13 April 2009 - 07:42 PM

warrenpenalver, no, I just had bad set of eyeprotection googles on my eyes and they fit bit badly my face. And I had also an breath mask on my face, and it also didn't fit well with eye protection. wink.gif

My 2 year baby girl calls me "mörrimöykky" ( Picture ) because I was always looking one when I come back from garage. You will always hear the truth from kids... rolleyes.gif
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#22 User is online   happy-kat 

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Posted 14 April 2009 - 03:54 PM

This afternoon was the start, did I get far, no I did not!
Everytime I tried to reverse up my ramps they slid on the tarmac.
I have a set of these

any suggestions please on what I can use to stop them sliding on the tarmac?
searching is fruitful | I'm a sponge not a mechanic | The Wiki is cool, please do check there if stuck with a Puma problem whilst waiting for a reply | For the Puma fan this read 'The Inside Story Book' is very nice to own link coming soon

#23 User is offline   YOG 

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Posted 14 April 2009 - 04:18 PM

I put a builder's plank on edge across the two brick pillers that are either side of the garage door.
Then 2 pieces of wood pointing from there, lined up with the 2 car ramps and another plank on edge across the high ends of the ramps.

Difficult to explain, but easy to do.

I've sent you a PM.


Rick

The Haynes Fiesta Manual (3397) can answer a lot of your questions.
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#24 User is offline   warrenpenalver 

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Posted 14 April 2009 - 04:43 PM

the other way is to give the ramps a good raming into the back wheel to wedge it.

Or add grip tape/rubber to the "rungs" so the tyres can get bite initially. Once you get a little bit on, then the car will pull itself up in theory.
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#25 User is offline   yippeekiay 

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Posted 14 April 2009 - 04:48 PM

Take a run up at em'....about 40 mph should do it....lol

(I'm joking, for god sake don't do the above...lol)

#26 User is online   happy-kat 

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Posted 14 April 2009 - 05:05 PM

we wondered if two large rubber car mats would do the trick re the grip
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#27 User is offline   V4FRP 

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Posted 14 April 2009 - 06:38 PM

How about jacking the cat up either side slip the ramps under then reverse or jack it allthe way up to the top of the ramps and just slide them under.

#28 User is online   happy-kat 

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Posted 14 April 2009 - 07:41 PM

we are sorted now, will try it again soon and post the results biggrin.gif thanks to Rick helping
searching is fruitful | I'm a sponge not a mechanic | The Wiki is cool, please do check there if stuck with a Puma problem whilst waiting for a reply | For the Puma fan this read 'The Inside Story Book' is very nice to own link coming soon

#29 User is online   happy-kat 

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Posted 16 April 2009 - 06:44 PM


ta da!!

my car
ramps
bracing plank
fence post
bracing plank
gary's wheel
repeated on each side

OK, not that impressive. Got up on the ramps, made an H frame with the rear wheels on Gary's car, decided not to use the garage door. This worked really well biggrin.gif
I used my garden bottle to mix the degreaser at approx 5-10% concentration.

This worked quite quickly on the underside, I decided to spray the whole underside to get a rough start to remove the worst. Took 3 futher spray bottles of clean water to rinse off. I did not use a brush or anything at this stage, just wanted to get rid of the inital and worst muck, which it appears to have done.
There is little to no rust that I could see at this stage on the front of the underside (excluding suspension/atms etc.) this area has lots of underseal

Down side sad.gif our tarmac driveway on rinsing down has some holes in it, what I can't work out is if it is the degreaser (for which there was no tarmac warning/caution) or if the holes are from the crap it shifted off from the underside.
I am now worried that I did not rinse my car off well enough given the holes in the drive, time will tell when it is on the ramps again tomorrow.
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#30 User is online   happy-kat 

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Posted 17 April 2009 - 11:36 AM

I rang and checked, Surflex would not have cuased the tarmac to melt/hole. I must have washed some nastey stuff off from the underside to have done that.
Hoping the weather clears for this afternoon so I can do a little bit more, and then tomorrow too. The further forward underneath the dirtier the car was. I have assuem that given the underside does get wet when you drive through puddles that the petrol tank electrical conector is weather proof (obviously I wont dunk it in a bucket) but should withstand a washing underneath. It started fine after yestdays cleaning to put it away again in the evening to get most from air drying outside.
I made a start biggrin.gif
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#31 User is offline   ssulti 

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Posted 17 April 2009 - 11:44 AM

QUOTE (happy-kat @ Apr 17 2009, 02:36 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
I have assuem that given the underside does get wet when you drive through puddles that the petrol tank electrical conector is weather proof


It should be, because I have washed my Puma several times on automatic car wash with underside washing. No problems ever, so don't worry. wink.gif

Your Puma's back box looks bit better than mine was at the beginning of the rust works. happy.gif
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#32 User is offline   warrenpenalver 

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Posted 17 April 2009 - 09:42 PM

Yeah you should have no problems with electrics!! the whole underside of the car is blasted with spray on wet roads at speed so its designed to be ok.

when your ready to refit fuel tank etc then just check the connectors and rubber for wear.
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#33 User is offline   V4FRP 

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Posted 18 April 2009 - 10:56 AM

When I did FRUP Kate he got dirtier the further forward I worked part of the problem was from the oil leak on his rocker cover which was blowing down the bulkhead and under the car mixing with the grime and was a hell of a job to remove. Must admit I questioned whether perhaps as the grime was oilbased it wouldn't act as an effective oil based underseal.

#34 User is online   happy-kat 

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Posted 18 April 2009 - 04:51 PM

Today instead of enjoying the lovely sunny weather, what was I doing, laying on my back/side scrubbing at the petrol tank!
Who needs sit ups! Talk about using the core muscles to hold yourself in the weird angles needed in order to not stick ones head in the glop on the floor huh.gif
I have got the tank clean and the floor facing seam along the edge (where visible).







With the recess behind the petrol filter I assume that this area can really only be done with the tank out?

As the tank is planned to be coming out in under three weeks should I be spraying the bolts I can see and electrical connector with a WD 40 like product now do you think please?

Although the floor pan is filthy I hope it will be fairly straight forward as generally no nooks and crankies so easier to use a brush on rub in the degreaser/cleaner.

And yep Ford Direct did right royally overspray every where!
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#35 User is offline   warrenpenalver 

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Posted 18 April 2009 - 08:47 PM

Its always wise to WD40 bolts that havent been touched for years and/or regularly caked in grot.

Are you planning on eventually dropping the rear beam for refurbishment???

remember the bit under the rear beam mounts needs treating. The rear of the floorpan in that area is almost identical on mk3 fiestas to mk4's (and hence pumas) and on my old fiesta there was a fair bit of corrosion right up close to the rear beam mounts and it caused a crack in the metal so had to be all ground out and welded up. Obviously that car had 7 years more wear and a lot less care than your car, but worth considering. if your on axle stands, with wheels off you can undo rear beam bolts (8 total) and lower rear beam to treat underneath. Just support beam in middle with trolley jack or blocks of wood etc.

Its the same for the suspension turrets front and rear and although ive yet to see them rust through at the rears on a puma (you get holes on mk 3 and 3.5 fiestas by rear top mounts!! ohmy.gif ), it is worth a good clean out and real good sealing in that area and the best way to do that is drop rear beam out. You dont have to totally remove beam, just lower enough to remove rear shocker for access.
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#36 User is online   happy-kat 

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Posted 18 April 2009 - 08:56 PM

eek! you just went over my depth there Warren
not quite got the confidence for that yet, just coming to terms with being partially under the car blink.gif
may do that then next year, or later on this summer, that might be a job for getting help with as with the petrol tank area smile.gif
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#37 User is offline   shinigami 

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Posted 18 April 2009 - 09:30 PM

Good start, see that wasn't so bad in the end smile.gif
The workout is a bonus too wink.gif

It's comforting to see the bottom of an FRP that looks to be in a similar condition to mine corrosion wise... and the overspray.


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#38 User is offline   warrenpenalver 

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Posted 18 April 2009 - 09:47 PM

Kate the rear beams not complicated to lower, just quite heavy!!! If your taking off fuel tank then you have enough skills to do rear beam.
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#39 User is offline   shinigami 

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Posted 18 April 2009 - 09:50 PM

When the rear beam is lowered, will the suspension come down/stretch with it?
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#40 User is offline   warrenpenalver 

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Posted 18 April 2009 - 09:59 PM

If your lowering the front of the rear beam then no as theres no need for it to come down. It will just pivot slightly at the rear damper lower mounting (as it would pivot there under normal sus travel). You dont need to lower it much to get the access you want.

Same when removing rear dampers, you dont need to lower it much to get the damper bottom eye out of the beam.
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