Pumapeople: Treating My Rust - Pumapeople

Jump to content

  • 4 Pages +
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • Last »
  • You cannot start a new topic
  • You cannot reply to this topic

Treating My Rust picture heavy Rate Topic: -----

#1 User is offline   YOG 

  • Group: Members
  • Posts: 2929
  • Joined: 30-August 07
  • Location:West Sussex

Posted 02 October 2009 - 04:27 PM

Following Kate's (happy-kat) request in her thread re where I have rust, these are the pics underneath the car, before washing/degreasing. Rust not too bad!

Fuel tank, exhaust, spare wheel/carrier and wheel arch liners removed. No rust on/in the front arches, or inside the car behind the panels.

The dark brown/black patches that can be seen in some pics are the anti-corrosion wax (Bilt Hamber dynax S-50), sprayed internally and running through gaps!

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

This post has been edited by YOG: 10 August 2013 - 03:16 PM

Rick

The Haynes Fiesta Manual (3397) can answer a lot of your questions.
Posted Image

#2 User is offline   happy-kat 

  • Group: Admin
  • Posts: 21811
  • Joined: 10-February 03

Posted 02 October 2009 - 04:40 PM

Thanks Rick :)
that's fantastic how the S-50 has crept like that, but not so good that the panels/seams allow for the wax to find a way through.
It shows that perhaps the rust on the underside of the chassis is directly related to how many road miles rather than just age. As your car is showing very little rust underneath but it is not a new car.
I am glad that S-50 was also applied to every chassis cavity on mine as your camera has picked up what looks like rust through an opening.
Best of luck on the filthy bit that comes next, though your car is rather clean anyway :blink:

The new Zip upload works a treat in the Gallery if you fancy puting these great pics in the rust Gallery please, if not I will if you give the nod :)

Your wheels are different and white too ;)
searching is fruitful | I'm a sponge not a mechanic | please do try that if stuck with a Puma problem whilst waiting for a reply | For the Puma fan this read 'The Inside Story Book' is very nice to own sometimes still seen for sale

#3 User is offline   FlashBastd 

  • Group: Validating
  • Posts: 3900
  • Joined: 17-August 08
  • Location:West Yorks

Posted 02 October 2009 - 04:54 PM

I have actually just done my rear arches with that very stuff, the amount that ran out of the sills was horrifying, and I didn't take your advice about putting something on the drive, which, with hindsight, was foolish!

How did you get the rear liners out without detaching the brake lines, or did you detatch the brake lines?

I did my rear quarters and all around the arch, along with poking the nozzle down the sills. Did you do right across the boot? I stopped pretty much where the bumper bolts are.
2005 Vauxhall VX220 Turbo
2000 Ford Focus 1.6i Ghia
2006 Renault Clio 2.0i RenaultSport 197 - SOLD
2005 Honda CR-V 2.0i Executive auto
2001 Ford Puma 1.7i Black

#4 User is offline   happy-kat 

  • Group: Admin
  • Posts: 21811
  • Joined: 10-February 03

Posted 02 October 2009 - 05:13 PM

S-50 is not for the actual arch area :blink: for that you need Dymax UB (same stuff but has a better drying consistency to be able to better handle getting exposed too I gather). S-50 is for out of site areas that don't get the elemements as it stays rather soft/runny.
I am glad I spread newspaper below when I did mine, not much fell but enough to have made a slippy mess :mellow:
searching is fruitful | I'm a sponge not a mechanic | please do try that if stuck with a Puma problem whilst waiting for a reply | For the Puma fan this read 'The Inside Story Book' is very nice to own sometimes still seen for sale

#5 User is offline   eldoodarino 

  • Group: Moderators
  • Posts: 6257
  • Joined: 12-March 03
  • Location:Nottingham

Posted 02 October 2009 - 06:01 PM

lol to this thread...

where's the rust... :roflmao:
Wizards Of Nos 60hp progressive delivery.... yeah baby yeah :-o
Denso Iridium Plugs
Helix Clutch
Mobil 1


#6 User is offline   FlashBastd 

  • Group: Validating
  • Posts: 3900
  • Joined: 17-August 08
  • Location:West Yorks

Posted 02 October 2009 - 06:10 PM

Sorry, I only meant the inside of the arches, I have some UB, and some Hydrate for the outside bits.
2005 Vauxhall VX220 Turbo
2000 Ford Focus 1.6i Ghia
2006 Renault Clio 2.0i RenaultSport 197 - SOLD
2005 Honda CR-V 2.0i Executive auto
2001 Ford Puma 1.7i Black

#7 User is offline   happy-kat 

  • Group: Admin
  • Posts: 21811
  • Joined: 10-February 03

Posted 02 October 2009 - 06:18 PM

Chris does have a point ;) sod all rust on your car Rick :D
searching is fruitful | I'm a sponge not a mechanic | please do try that if stuck with a Puma problem whilst waiting for a reply | For the Puma fan this read 'The Inside Story Book' is very nice to own sometimes still seen for sale

#8 User is offline   Neil 

  • Group: Members
  • Posts: 4645
  • Joined: 11-September 06

Posted 02 October 2009 - 06:25 PM

Haha, if you want rust I'll post up some pics of #013! :P
2006 - 2008 Ford Puma 1.7 Lux | 2008 - 2010 Ford Racing Puma #0013 | 2010 - 2012 Mini Cooper S | 2012 - ? RenaultSport Clio 182 Cup

#9 User is offline   YOG 

  • Group: Members
  • Posts: 2929
  • Joined: 30-August 07
  • Location:West Sussex

Posted 02 October 2009 - 07:00 PM

@ Kate
Pics are in Gallery-Technical-Rust. I loaded them individually as not got the knack of multi-loading. I'll need to, as have pics from the inside as well.
Wheels are standard silver, I'm not that good at pics and the flash makes them look white (they are clean on the inside though!).
You're probably correct on mileage and rust, as mine is under 20,000 miles and I understood that when I got it 2 years ago (with less than 6,000 miles), it had always been garaged, which must also help.

@ FlashBastd
Yes, I detached the brake lines to fit the HEL braided lines. Ordered new (non-rusty) spring clips for the body mounts. I think you could cut the lining just under the body mount if you wanted to leave the lines connected, but I'm going to change the brake fluid and linings whilst I'm doing all this work.
I stripped all the boot linings and rear lights out and sprayed S-50 in every hole I could find. Also got the long tube as far into the sills as I could via a hole inside by the bottom of the front inertia seat belts (behind the panels). Took out the pin switches by the front door hinges and used the long nozzle to spray up and down inside there as well.
Still have the underside and boot cavities to treat and have the headlights removed to spray inside more cavities, as that gives good access.

@ eldoodarino
You mean yours is more rusty than mine!

Rick

The Haynes Fiesta Manual (3397) can answer a lot of your questions.
Posted Image

#10 User is offline   YOG 

  • Group: Members
  • Posts: 2929
  • Joined: 30-August 07
  • Location:West Sussex

Posted 02 October 2009 - 07:12 PM

View PostNeil, on 02 October 2009 - 06:25 PM, said:

Haha, if you want rust I'll post up some pics of #013!


I'll have a 1 litre container of Bilt Hamber hydrate 80 rust killer/barrier system going cheap(er) soon, but sounds like you need 5 litres!
Rick

The Haynes Fiesta Manual (3397) can answer a lot of your questions.
Posted Image

#11 User is offline   happy-kat 

  • Group: Admin
  • Posts: 21811
  • Joined: 10-February 03

Posted 03 October 2009 - 04:48 PM

Rick I would be very interested please to see a picture of the area where you managed to poke the tube into to reach the sills please?
searching is fruitful | I'm a sponge not a mechanic | please do try that if stuck with a Puma problem whilst waiting for a reply | For the Puma fan this read 'The Inside Story Book' is very nice to own sometimes still seen for sale

#12 User is offline   FlashBastd 

  • Group: Validating
  • Posts: 3900
  • Joined: 17-August 08
  • Location:West Yorks

Posted 03 October 2009 - 05:11 PM

I took some pics of mine today, will see if I have one of that area. Essentially, remove quarter trim, remove speaker pod, below the seatbelt there is access into the sill area, right at the bottom, to the outside (i.e. away from the car).
2005 Vauxhall VX220 Turbo
2000 Ford Focus 1.6i Ghia
2006 Renault Clio 2.0i RenaultSport 197 - SOLD
2005 Honda CR-V 2.0i Executive auto
2001 Ford Puma 1.7i Black

#13 User is offline   YOG 

  • Group: Members
  • Posts: 2929
  • Joined: 30-August 07
  • Location:West Sussex

Posted 03 October 2009 - 11:55 PM

Kate

This is the RH inner wheelarch, before treatment. The black "plastic" bag you can see, is full of foam pieces (don't know what for!). When you remove this bag, you should see the access hole behind it, to the left as you view the pic.
I'll see if can get a pic of it later today. The "brown" areas are some type of waxy sealant which was already there, don't know if this was on earlier cars?


Posted Image
Rick

The Haynes Fiesta Manual (3397) can answer a lot of your questions.
Posted Image

#14 User is offline   YOG 

  • Group: Members
  • Posts: 2929
  • Joined: 30-August 07
  • Location:West Sussex

Posted 04 October 2009 - 01:19 PM

Kate
Here's the pic. You're looking for the two gaps in the panel joins (in the lower half of the pic), to insert the extension tube as far as possible:

Posted Image
Rick

The Haynes Fiesta Manual (3397) can answer a lot of your questions.
Posted Image

#15 User is offline   Sex Kitten 

  • View gallery
  • Group: Moderators
  • Posts: 8780
  • Joined: 18-March 03
  • Location:Deepest Darkest Manchester

Posted 04 October 2009 - 06:04 PM

i so need to do this but dont have know how - i need to find soemwhere reliable and reasonable! :rolleyes:
sex kitten
come up and see me...make me smile :wink:

Life should NOT be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in an attractive and well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, champagne in one hand - strawberries in the other, body thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and screaming WOO HOO -What a Ride!:D

1.7 Moondust Silver Sep 2002 - Aug 2009, 1.7 Silver Thunder Aug 2009 -

#16 User is offline   happy-kat 

  • Group: Admin
  • Posts: 21811
  • Joined: 10-February 03

Posted 04 October 2009 - 06:14 PM

Brilliant, thank you Rich that helps loads I think :D
searching is fruitful | I'm a sponge not a mechanic | please do try that if stuck with a Puma problem whilst waiting for a reply | For the Puma fan this read 'The Inside Story Book' is very nice to own sometimes still seen for sale

#17 User is offline   FlashBastd 

  • Group: Validating
  • Posts: 3900
  • Joined: 17-August 08
  • Location:West Yorks

Posted 04 October 2009 - 07:01 PM

The insidey bit is pretty easy, four torx screws to remove the seat back, seat base just unclips, three screws and various clips per side for the quater panels, boot trims, etc. After that it is little more than just using an aerosol.

The outside is much more daunting, you would nonetheless be well advised getting it done. I know PumaSpeed were offering a service, but any local bodyshop or workshop would probably consider it, again, it isn't difficult, just a bit time consuming for the stripdown and rebuild (spare wheel, fuel tank, wheel arch liners, exhaust, heat shields).

If you are just after a single coat type treatment, I would expect a cost of around £200 for the underside, plus £150 for under the arches, just a guess, but I wouldn't expect it to be any more than that.

I am planning on doing the underside of mine all in one go, on a 2 post lift at my parents garage, with a couple of technicians to advise / assist when I can't put something back. I won't just be using a 1 coat treatment though, rather using Dymax-S80 (cavities), Dymax UB and Hydrate 80, along with some black paint in the middle, a job like that would be quite time consuming, so to pay someone to do it would probably be much more expensive.
2005 Vauxhall VX220 Turbo
2000 Ford Focus 1.6i Ghia
2006 Renault Clio 2.0i RenaultSport 197 - SOLD
2005 Honda CR-V 2.0i Executive auto
2001 Ford Puma 1.7i Black

#18 User is offline   happy-kat 

  • Group: Admin
  • Posts: 21811
  • Joined: 10-February 03

Posted 04 October 2009 - 07:40 PM

Cost could be more as the whole lot needs a thorough degrease clean first too, pants job that is too.
I bought new petrol tank pipes.
searching is fruitful | I'm a sponge not a mechanic | please do try that if stuck with a Puma problem whilst waiting for a reply | For the Puma fan this read 'The Inside Story Book' is very nice to own sometimes still seen for sale

#19 User is offline   warrenpenalver 

  • Group: Members
  • Posts: 4142
  • Joined: 22-January 04
  • Location:Stoke on Trent

Posted 04 October 2009 - 10:10 PM

looking good how little rust there is!!

Does anyone know when the wiki is back?? i was wondering if the rust guide shows all the cavity access points for injecting protective fluids???

would be awesome with a guide showing all the cavitys to inject, access points etc. Would make it a more methodical job.

Im going to have to get started on mine this winter!!
Posted Image


#20 User is offline   YOG 

  • Group: Members
  • Posts: 2929
  • Joined: 30-August 07
  • Location:West Sussex

Posted 05 October 2009 - 09:34 AM

Don't recall any guides in the Wiki.
Apparently "Rust Busters" supply injection diagrams free of charge when available (IIRC, they had one for a Puma), when you buy their Injection Wax:
http://www.rust.co.u...ol-products.cfm
http://www.rust.co.u...x-injection.cfm

If you have access to a compressor, you can also get spray kits from there, rather than aerosols.

One of the things I dislike about having it done "Professionally", is spraying "blind" through drain holes to treat the inside, whereas if you remove the trim, you can see exactly where the coating is going and how much.
Rick

The Haynes Fiesta Manual (3397) can answer a lot of your questions.
Posted Image

Share this topic:


  • 4 Pages +
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • Last »
  • You cannot start a new topic
  • You cannot reply to this topic